Clio overheating - advice?

Soldato
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Honestly dude, I wouldn't worry, if I leave it long enough mine will switch the fan on at idle on a cold day.

Today was not a cold day, and you were revving it.

Just keep the coolant level between the marks.
 
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Ive seen my Dad get a faceful of boiling hot water from an Escort or something before when he opened the rad cap.

not saying rad ccap saying collant cap two diffenert things....
the rad cap is under pressure the coolant ank isnt....

OK FOR MECHANIC NOOBLETS, THE COOLANT TNAK IS THE THE BIGG NORMALLY ORANGEY PALSTIC CONTAINER ITH A PLASTIC LID UNDER LITTLE PRESSURE, THIS CNA BE SAVELY OPENED WHEN HOT WITH A TOWEL AND GENTLY A LITTLE AT A TIME TO RELASE THE STEAM PRESSURE.
TH E USUALLY RED CAP ON YOUR RADIATOR WITH "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT" SHOULD NEVER 'REPEAT' NEVER BE REMOVED WHEN ENGINE IS HOT UNLESS U LIKE 3RD DEGREE BURNS...
 
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Soldato
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OK FOR MECHANIC NOOBLETS, THE COOLANT TNAK IS THE THE BIGG NORMALLY ORANGEY PALSTIC CONTAINER ITH A PLASTIC LID UNDER LITTLE PRESSURE, THIS CNA BE SAVELY OPENED WHEN HOT WITH A TOWEL AND GENTLY A LITTLE AT A TIME TO RELASE THE STEAM PRESSURE.
TH E USUALLY RED CAP ON YOUR RADIATOR WITH "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT" SHOULD NEVER 'REPEAT' NEVER BE REMOVED WHEN ENGINE IS HOT UNLESS U LIKE 3RD DEGREE BURNS...

Plastic expansion tanks can be under just as much pressure, my cap will vent at 1.4 bar. Take the same precautions.

Also, the chances of getting 3rd degree burns from 110C (at most) water/water vapour/steam are quite low, 2nd degree burns are likely.
 
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Plastic expansion tanks can be under just as much pressure, my cap will vent at 1.4 bar. Take the same precautions.

Also, the chances of getting 3rd degree burns from 110C (at most) water/water vapour/steam are quite low, 2nd degree burns are likely.

1.4 bar i think your reading a bit to much into manufactures safety precautions the plastic caps can barly do 1.1 bar before poping the thred, also hence the towel its the ultimate for over heating issues.
but i would never recomend taking of the radiator cap as it can be a lot higher than the res tof the system, known some standerd cars , aka land rover wolfs in desert setup to run at nearl 2.5 bar :eek:
 
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the coolant tank is part of the same system, so it is

it maybe part of the same system but the stnading water counteract the pressure which allows it to expand theirfore nutralising the pressures effect whislt the airtight radiotr hold the pressure allowing for a greater amount of kinetic energy to be realesed.

if oyu are planning to do a full drain of your colling system best to do it when cold, if your other heating at the side of the road nad want to vent heat quickly to save engine damage, use a towel or thick jacket (dpm smocks rull for this) and gnetly remove the coolant cap allowing excess preeusre to slowly vent off then open compltely n dlet it cool compltetly.
 
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Says 1.4 bar on the cap mate, and I've seen one releasing gas and liquid.

The only thing that makes them safer is the longer thread means they don't shoot off when you open the seal.

i would love to point out if never said tkae off in one big go. more like untwist slowlly and let pressure drain off. but hey. in my experiance with rover v8s, the caps notrmally pop off once the coolant "expansiontank" goes beyound a certain point maybe it sjust a shoddy rover design??
 
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More than likely, but you're clearly now splitting hairs to save face.

The liquid in the expansion tank does not act as a barrier to pressure, the coolant bath between the pump and the expansion tank might, so the pressure can vary across the system. But do not treat hot expansion tanks as a safe thing.
 
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More than likely, but you're clearly now splitting hairs to save face.

The liquid in the expansion tank does not act as a barrier to pressure, the coolant bath between the pump and the expansion tank might, so the pressure can vary across the system. But do not treat hot expansion tanks as a safe thing.

i never have treated them as a safe thing, i have in multiple post told the op to treat them with utmost caution, using suitablt protection whilst opening them, and have infact made a post defining the differeance between the radaitor cap and the coolant expantion chamer cap, so he dosnt pull off the radaitor cap.which a member of the forum mistakened with the coolant cap. i have also told the op how to remove the cap if he needs to if the engine is running hot, so unless you want mme to take a photot step by step on how to find the over heating proble, drain his system, and refill and bleed it i cnat do any better than what ive posted.
your just fining flas in my post that have been corrected in earlier postes in some ego masturbation on the internet.
 
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Your fault for being wrong on the internet.

sorry, but if had a rather busy day doing heavy lifting and basic grunt work, in the sun with multiple chemicals which have inhablitated my standered fought patterns, but i did answer the ops question correctly any thing else afterwards is mearly hearsay
me: 1 internet: 0
i thnak you and good nihgt

tomorrow i will give a detailed rebuild guide to a landrover defender wolf varient whistled strongly intoxianted...
 
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most modern cars don't have a rad cap anymore, its all done from the expansion tank
and back to the guys car, i dont think anything is wrong with it, he was doing a lot of reversing so no air going though the rad so the fan will come on
 
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most modern cars don't have a rad cap anymore, its all done from the expansion tank
and back to the guys car, i dont think anything is wrong with it, he was doing a lot of reversing so no air going though the rad so the fan will come on

most likely this plus low on coolant, hece the whole page of how to top up
 
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