Merky tubing

I recently noticed a dirt build up in my res and specs in my tubing. When i drained the loop the tubing seemed scratched and it looked stained.

The liquid i had in was mayhems and it had mayhems uv green dye in it, which ads to the merky look. I know its a build up of algea in the loop and im going to clean it.

I have a blitz kit and i have bought new tubing and a res/pump. Should i clean the loop with the new tubing and res/pump and blitz kit or use the blitz kit with the current tubing/res?

EDIT : i think i might need to strip the gpu block and mayby the cpu block. What should i use to clean those?

Argh not fun!


In my experience (No I am not saying I am an expert)

I am afraid you are the stage of "Do it all properly"

It sounds like you have growth in the sidewalls of your tubing as such, its had it, only way to 100% get rid of it is to replace.(Tubing should always be considered disposable) I believe)

As I am a perfectionist I would also take all the blocks apart and clean using deionised water and toothbrush the insides removing as much material as possible. (Don't use your wife's toothbrush, she gets upset)

Rebuild, use Blitz kit part 2 to clean the system while checking for leaks (so system off and just pump powered)
Make sure you follow the instructions for the Blitz kit carefully, heard one or two horrible stories.

drain, flush as needed refill with your desired final fluid, and this time include biocide!

Hope that helps

What about the rads? Should i use part 1 or dont you think its needed? Since your saying im at the stage of it "do it all properly" im guessing the rads do need doing.

So by your reply what i need to do is ...
1 : dissconnect all tubing, throw it.
2 : strip and clean gpu/cpu blocks.
3 : reassemble and run part 2 of the blitz kit.

Does that sound about right? Let me know about the rads too. Thanks

Btw im guessing the pump and res will be sorted and de-stained with part 2?

EDIT : i have 2 kill coils at ready , will biocide be needed aswell?

Hello CB,


Ok you got the general gist , I did wonder as I was half asleep


Good point about the rads if you have the full Blitz kit YES I would do rads too.

Rad separately cleaned etc.

2 Kill coils for the size of your loop should be fine and Biocide will not be needed.


The rest sounds bang on to me.

Cool, gonna use the new res/pump instead of cleaning my current one, ill use it as a reminder to clean my loop every couple of months. Thanks

CONSOLE_BUTCHER said:

clean my loop every couple of months.

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With temps under control and some form of Biocide (Silver coils in your case) you should be able to run 6/9/12 months without issues sir.

Believe me it soon gets old pulling ti apart all the time.

If you get the base sorted, clean when fluid added etc. it seems to keep itself sorted.

Just put 10% IPA Isopropyl Alcohol in your loop and nothing will ever grow, will never go cloudy and acts as a lubricant for pumps. It also reduces surface tension so adds to flow rate.

Its been used in the print industry for years for not only keeping refrigerated circulation tanks clean and giving damping longer roller life but also to stop any bacteria build up and nothing grows in it.

The perfect additive, but don't drink it


The same fluid has been used for over 4 years in one system, never drained, never needed too.

I would not use Isopropyl Alcohol because it will damage Acrylic/persplex

vapor matt said:

Just put 10% IPA Isopropyl Alcohol in your loop and nothing will ever grow, will never go cloudy and acts as a lubricant for pumps. It also reduces surface tension so adds to flow rate.

Its been used in the print industry for years for not only keeping refrigerated circulation tanks clean and giving damping longer roller life but also to stop any bacteria build up and nothing grows in it.

The perfect additive, but don't drink it


The same fluid has been used for over 4 years in one system, never drained, never needed too.

Click to expand...

Drangueos said:

I would not use Isopropyl Alcohol because it will damage Acrylic/perplex

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Indeed I've seen quite a few res and blocks pretty much fall apart after people have cleaned them with Isopropyl Alchohol.

vapor matt said:

Just put 10% IPA Isopropyl Alcohol in your loop and nothing will ever grow, will never go cloudy and acts as a lubricant for pumps. It also reduces surface tension so adds to flow rate.

Its been used in the print industry for years for not only keeping refrigerated circulation tanks clean and giving damping longer roller life but also to stop any bacteria build up and nothing grows in it.

The perfect additive, but don't drink it


The same fluid has been used for over 4 years in one system, never drained, never needed too.

Click to expand...

The bit you failing to point out is "Installed into systems specially designed for it's use"

The odd world of Custom water cooling is certainly not that.

I really don't think this is a good idea without a lot more research.

well I can only say what I have used and for 5 years the same liquid inside GPU and CPU blocks, D5 pumps and never had an issue using it.

And the res I use is acrylic and never been damaged, I would like to see the CPU and GPU blocks that have fallen apart through IPA at 10% but I have seen water systems full of rubbish growing in them, I still got shinny as new blocks after 5 years so I will stick to IPA.


Pics please? of acrylic and Perspex damage, as I should let Komori and Heidelberg know the Acrylic rollers they use in damping systems on printing press's might fall apart and they sit in a font tray of IPA 24/7 for 20 years. also all the covers that cover them rollers and guards are Perspex and iam sure they would have done the research on machines that are only a million pound + each, just an oversight I am sure.

Now thinners is a different story.

vapor matt said:

And the res I use is acrylic and never been damaged, I would like to see the CPU and GPU blocks that have fallen apart through IPA at 10% but I have seen water systems full of rubbish growing in them, I still got shinny as new blocks after 5 years so I will stick to IPA.

Click to expand...

I'm with Matt, I very much doubt a 10% IPA solution would cause damage to perspex, it's the equivalent of a strong beer as far as alcohol to water content, so unless you've seen beer melting through plastic pints I reckon it will be fine

You'd probably be fine up to 50% or more? Probably wouldn't chance it though.

Personally I use the mayhems pre-mix either fully mixed in litre bottles or the 250ml and de-ionised water. Just seems easier and I don't have to mess around. I also don't tend to have my loop running on the same fluid much longer than a year at a time. Not because of the fluid, more I get bored easily and change something