Watercooling first build

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So, does this route make any sense whatsoever?

I've got a Corsair 760T, and my specs are in my signature.

Does this route make sense?
Is all this stuff compatible?
I just used the configurator to try and get an idea, I'm waiting a while before biting the bullet on this but would like some reassurance from the experts. ;)

rTUqUax.png

xH4FPpR.png

It's been a while :D
 
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Looking good so far. Get some ek vardar fans and a three way pwm splitter. If you are going the hard tube route, you will need some tools, so do some research into tube bending.

I've got a heat gun here already, we use it for stripping paint and after asking around, it'll be suitable for the job at hand.
I'll need a silicone insert, psu jumper, whatever else. ;)

I've got Corsair ML140s currently, and will pick up 120's when I get this setup together.

As I want white/blue/black to be the three colours, I'll be getting white LED fans ;)

I'm waiting for these to come in a few days :D

2 x Corsair ML140 Pro LED White 140mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan
BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 PSU Cable Kit, CSR-Series - Black & White
BitFenix Alchemy SATA 6GB/s braided cable 30cm - Black
Asus Z170-Deluxe Intel Z170 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (12g)
Arctic Silver ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover and Surface Purifier


And waiting on white sata cables in stock...
I'll possibly also go with Dominator Platinum instead of getting another set of ram in white to go white/black/white/black.
 
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All sounds good, but I assume those those Corsair ML140 fans are for the intake? You will need 120 fans for that RAD.
You will need bending Mandrels to get the right bend. XSPC do one for PTEG. I use Barrow and of course you have Monsoon.
I went for the same fitting as you, but in 10/12mm. Good choice, you cannot go wrong with EK IMHO.
You get very good Geld thermal paste with the GPU block and its been fine for me.
Good to see a 480 under water, it will looking excellent when finished!
 
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All sounds good, but I assume those those Corsair ML140 fans are for the intake? You will need 120 fans for that RAD.
You will need bending Mandrels to get the right bend. XSPC do one for PTEG. I use Barrow and of course you have Monsoon.
I went for the same fitting as you, but in 10/12mm. Good choice, you cannot go wrong with EK IMHO.
You get very good Geld thermal paste with the GPU block and its been fine for me.
Good to see a 480 under water, it will looking excellent when finished!

I'm actually planning to get ML120's when Vega launches, which is when I want to do my loop!

I'm finding it really interesting so I'm trying to learn about it now, and this site is of course one of the best places to look ;)

Are the bends fairly easy to do, and do they have to be very exact?
Is there any flex in PETG tubing?
I look at some of the fittings and I'm like how tf do they get the tube in that at the perfect length.

Do you think in my case it's more reasonable to do 360 top, 240/280 front?

I see lots of builds like this in my case:

FYnU05r.png

But everyone I've asked has said a single 360 rad is more than enough.

ALSO: Anyone on this forum can recommend a place to get a good PSU shroud made, in London?
I'd love to cover up my cables/PSU :D
 
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Google 'monsoon watercooling bending video' to see how bending can be done. A few videos which are very good.
PETG is apparently easier to bend then acrylic. I use acrylic and found it tough going at first, but got the hand of it at the end. Next time, I will go PETG.
Best advice is get the right tools and plenty of tubes, then take it slow and practice. Have more tubes then you need.
 
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Google 'monsoon watercooling bending video' to see how bending can be done. A few videos which are very good.
PETG is apparently easier to bend then acrylic. I use acrylic and found it tough going at first, but got the hand of it at the end. Next time, I will go PETG.
Best advice is get the right tools and plenty of tubes, then take it slow and practice. Have more tubes then you need.

I'll give it a watch mate thabks

Kitguru and that guy singularity computers have been very informative on youtube
 
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I find them a little loud. I always recommend Noctua if the budget will stretch.

Most people are put off by the colour but that doesn't bother me.

It's your choice at the end of the day and depends what your goals are.
 
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I find them a little loud. I always recommend Noctua if the budget will stretch.

Most people are put off by the colour but that doesn't bother me.

It's your choice at the end of the day and depends what your goals are.

Is there a lot of work involved with modding them??
I'd love white frame blue blades or something similar
 
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I'm waiting a while before biting the bullet on this but would like some reassurance from the experts. ;)

rTUqUax.png

Hi Neutral!

Since I don't think anyone has mentioned it, here's a few pointers for you:

you don't appear to have a Reservoir in your parts list,.. a Reservoir isn't 100% needed, however you'll find it a hell of a lot easier to fill and maintain your watercooling loop with one.

1. by the looks of your picture diagram, you're expecting to use a Reservoir, so make sure you buy one ;) - EK do a very good Res/Pump combo unit: the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump) is the one i'm personally using and it's very good and not too huge.

2. make sure you consider a Drainage path, and a Fill port for your system.
a lot of us use a T-shape (3 way) or Q-shape (4 way) fitting, and attach a ball valve with a stopper as a drainage path. The ball valve allows you top open and close the drain, and the stopper on the end stops all the liquid leaking out if you or something accidentally manages to open that valve when you're -not- trying to drain it ;)

Oh, I also suggest a bendy tube with a barb fitting on the end that you can screw onto the end of your ball valve before you open it, this'll let you easily feed your liquid into a container for draining.

3. Similarly, the fill path needs to be thought out. (I forgot to do this in my phase 1 build) - again looking at your diagram, you expect to plumb your loop into the top of the reservoir ... this means that you will not be able to unscrew the top of that reservoir in order to pour liquid in (something I was luckily able to do in my phase 1 build because I changed the pipe layout after realising I forgot the fill port!).

So you will need to plan out a fill path that also goes into the top of the reservior. - this can be done a couple of ways, either you do something similar to the drainage port and use a T or Q fitting, then pipe off that fitting onto a 'fill port' situated at the top of your case somewhere above the reservior. - or you make sure you have a reservoir top that has more than 1 hole! (again, back to my previous 'forgetting' to plan a fill port on my phase 1 system.)

Bare in mind that the EK-XRES 140 Revo that I recommended only has a single port on the top of the reservoir! so you'll have to buy an additional top to replace that with in order to get a multi ported top ... I bought the EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP, works brilliantly.

4. Another word of advise, if this is your first time using hard tubing, and it sounds like it is... buy DOUBLE the amount of tubing that you think you're gonna need, seriously if you think 4 tubes will be enough, buy 8!

And stick to 1 bend on each run of pipe! - by all means, try 2 or more... but getting all of those bends to perfectly match up to your fittings is a nightmare for the tube bending virgin. Trust me I know, just take a look at my phase 1 system (link in my sig), can you see how... bent, those pipes are? I was aiming for perfectly horizontal pipes in in the pictures you see, but judging the exact distance or where to make your pipe bends is so hard at first... they never line up, which means you then have to stop un-bending the pipes to make them fit, and it starts looking like a mess. lol *sigh*.

So for your first try, I would seriously consider making your life easier by planning out only 1 bend per pipe, - use 90 degree or 45 degree fittings to get the pipes to connect into your hardware without needing extra bends at the ends.

5. and finally another related piece of advice, always buy more fittings than you think you'll need! - the amount of times I thought to myself (if I only had another 2x 90 degree fittings I could make this fit so much easier!).

Anyway I hope this helps, it's a bit of a ramble and a long read but I wanted to give you as much helpful information to go on as I could. :)

Draz.
 
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