I just bought some Vitrex tile nippers as they look like the ones he used in the video
Thank you, what were you using to wet the glass and how did you get a constant drip?
Glass reservoirs & tube?
- Thread starter TechMinerUK
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being a DIY nut I already had mine, but did spend £12 on a new diamond blade. If you watch the video, you will see that I roll the tube against the blade to make the cut. If you just push the tube onto the blade the cut isn't as clean.
I just bought some Vitrex tile nippers as they look like the ones he used in the video
Thank you, what were you using to wet the glass and how did you get a constant drip?
The tile cutter has a built in tray that holds water wets the blade and tile, if you look closely you can see a fine mist of water coming off the blade as it spins.
Here is a link to the one I bought, although you can get cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VITREX-103402-Diamond-Blade-Cutting/dp/B000C74Y6M/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1463997637&sr=1-2&keywords=Tile+cutter
I'll probably go for the score and snap method with sand paper for ease
Score and snap method is easy to do ii just dont think ppl are scoring it deep enough on the 16ml glass tubing we do. I personally have now scored and snapped in access of 200 peaces with only 2 brakes and i just used them peaces on other parts of the builds.
The dremil method works but its best to use a jig or V shame to move the glass around. Its also better for doing smaller peaces as score and snap doesn't work on to small a length.
Always chamfer and clean up the ends, We use a belt sander for this with wet and dry and please ware a mask when doing it.
There are many methods for glass cutting but for god sake dont use a drill to do it, if the glass is off balance you are going to cause some serious harm.
@Fluke Nice job bud.
The dremil method works but its best to use a jig or V shame to move the glass around. Its also better for doing smaller peaces as score and snap doesn't work on to small a length.
Always chamfer and clean up the ends, We use a belt sander for this with wet and dry and please ware a mask when doing it.
There are many methods for glass cutting but for god sake dont use a drill to do it, if the glass is off balance you are going to cause some serious harm.
@Fluke Nice job bud.
I think I'll go with the score and snap method, roughly how much pressure would you recommend applying with the glass "nippers" as i don't want to smash the glass but like you say I also don't want to go too weak causing the score not to be deep enough
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i got the aqulis before that I had a aqua cool plexi which cracked where the caps screw it also leaked were it had bits of plexi rod for LEDs, I also have an ek res pump combo can't fault it though it is a little scratched up. Also the glass is easy to clean but the aqulis does leak a bit, but only if you try to move it while it's bolted to the case.I would go for the aqulis over the three I hadHi, I have recently been looking into a new watercooling loop and noticed that there is a distinct lack of glass reservoirs as most manufacturers seem to use Acrylic. I have only seen the XSPC photon series, Aquacomputer Aqualis and one really expensive EK version. Does anyone have any experience with these and if so would you recommend it?
Also, has anyone had any experience working with Mayhems new glass tube, if so how is it to work with and is it any better or worse than acrylic and would you recommend using it?
As always, any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks for letting me know about your experience, do you have any idea why it leaked when it was moved whilst fixed as I would have thought that there would have been o-rings/gaskets to prevent that
Soldato
It shouldn't leak and can be tightened up if it is. An Aqualis is just a central metal rod with a delrin top and bottom section screwed on. The glass tube just sits sandwiched between the delrin section with an o-ring sitting in a ridge. You can take it apart or tighten it by just (un-)screwing the top section by hand.
I think I'll go with the score and snap method, roughly how much pressure would you recommend applying with the glass "nippers" as i don't want to smash the glass but like you say I also don't want to go too weak causing the score not to be deep enough
Tbh you do not need much pressure let the score do the work.
So just lightly run the scorers around the glass a few times then snap? Sounds too simple
Hmm, I have to see this myself so if my "nippers" come this week I'll get some glass to try them out
I'm back again as I'm just wondering about the ID of the tubing. Would 12/7 cause a large flow restriction over the 16/11 tubing? Just thinking as the 16/10 fittings will bump up the cost of the build quite considerably 
Soldato
In my head it was enough to ditch the 12/7 that I'd bought. You're not going to know for definite without trying both. G1/4 fittings are approximately 10mm ID for the channel through them so 7mm tubing will cause a restriction. How much it will affect temps will depend on a multitude of things. It could he negligible but I suspect it could be noticeable. If nothing else, it doesn't sit right in my head so I wouldn't be happy.
I suppose I'm better bitting the bullet and paying the extra for the bigger tubing and fittings
Who says?
Zia
Im about to do something like that, im just scratching my head wondering where you fill the res up with liquid if its closed loop like that ?........ is there 2 fill port locations on that photon 170mm res ?
i beleive there is bottom fed inlet ,but with m20 adapter and some t peice fitting you can fill it from the top to.
Basically the t piece at the top has 3 holes i just used a length of tube with 1/4 fitting on one end and funnel attched on the other,screw into the t piece fill the res (slow).bleed the system of air and just turn off system and unscrew the 1/4 adpater and refit blanking screw.
Having slightly modified mine now as i wanted quick and easy method using quick disconnects fittings.
Zia
Basically the t piece at the top has 3 holes i just used a length of tube with 1/4 fitting on one end and funnel attched on the other,screw into the t piece fill the res (slow).bleed the system of air and just turn off system and unscrew the 1/4 adpater and refit blanking screw.
Having slightly modified mine now as i wanted quick and easy method using quick disconnects fittings.
Zia
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Well i have the m20 to g1/4 fitting.
could you point me in the right direction of what other fittings i need
im new to this and want to do it right
also fittings for a ball valve and bleeder would be cool aswell if you have the time
so i know all to buy and order cheers.
Links ?
i used one of these attached to m20
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...g-accessory-black-matte-finish-wc-221-bp.html
i assume your going for soft tubing?
fittings are dependant on what size tubing your going for some sizes you'll struggle to find the right fittings for your build and may have to source elsewhere.
drain
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-mini-valve-matt-black-wc-426-bp.html
blanking plugs for drain and t peice
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...with-o-ring-black-matte-finish-wc-220-bp.html
i tend used few 90 angle fitting and some 45 depending what routes your taking with your tubing best bet is plan it out all in advance and then buy the fittings required save a lot cash also you don't have buy bitspower they can be expensive and the cost soon adds up.
normal compresssion fittings
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...3-8-1-2-od-compression-fitting-wc-255-bp.html
Zia
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...g-accessory-black-matte-finish-wc-221-bp.html
i assume your going for soft tubing?
fittings are dependant on what size tubing your going for some sizes you'll struggle to find the right fittings for your build and may have to source elsewhere.
drain
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-mini-valve-matt-black-wc-426-bp.html
blanking plugs for drain and t peice
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...with-o-ring-black-matte-finish-wc-220-bp.html
i tend used few 90 angle fitting and some 45 depending what routes your taking with your tubing best bet is plan it out all in advance and then buy the fittings required save a lot cash also you don't have buy bitspower they can be expensive and the cost soon adds up.
normal compresssion fittings
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bits...3-8-1-2-od-compression-fitting-wc-255-bp.html
Zia