Project: Black Box

whiterabbit · 22 Aug 2016 at 22:11

PROJECT: BLACK BOX

Project log for my new build. This will be a long process as I will be collecting parts over the next two months.

I will be transplanting existing hardware from my TJ08B-E. Details as follows:

Motherboard: Asus H170m-plus
CPU: Skylake i7 6700 with EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal (Original CSQ)
GPU: Nvidia Founders Edition 1080 with EKWB full cover block
RAM: Corsair 16GB White Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz RAM/Memory Kit 2x 8GB
Primary Hard Drive: Samsung SM951 128GB M.2 PCIe
Secondary Hard Drive: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD
PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 10 600W Hybrid Modular Power Supply

I have purchased the case. Drum roll...................

Case: Caselabs Mercury S8

Options:

Case Colour: Black
36mm Extended Ventilated Top Cover
Left Door: Standard Window with Ventialtion
Right Door: Standard Window
Front Cover: Ventilated
Flex-Bay Configuration: Solid Bay Covers
Flex-Bay 140.2 (280) Fan/Radiator Mount (MAC-532): 1 x 140.2
S8 Drop-in Top Radiator Mount 2x 120.3
Radiator Side Mounts for the Lower Chamber: S8 Drop-in Side Radiator mount 120.3
Ventilated PSU cover
PSU Support Mount
Flex-Bay 5.25 Device Mount Standard
Caster Kit

Next purchase will be lots of water cooling goodies. I am planning to install:

2x EK-CoolStream XE 360 Triple in the top mounts
EK-CoolStream PE 360 Triple in the bottom side mount

The fans on the top mount radiators will be exhausting air through the radiators and out of the top of the case.

I'll probably set up the side mount rad fans to exhaust as well so there will be a need to bring plenty of fresh air internally from outside. This will be serviced by two 140mm fans and two 120mm fans mounted at the front. There is a space at the back of the case for a single 120mm or 140mm fan. I'm thinking of going with a 140mm set up to intake.

The idea of dumping hot air into the case by intake through a rad doesn't gel well.

Fans will all be Noctua. a Mix of 140mm (NF-A14 PWM) and 120mm (NF-F12 PWM). I am open to suggestions if anyone can recommend something that is better performing? I am designing this as an ultra quiet ultra cool system so fans will be on a low rpm setting.

The thing I am most concerned about is how to route all of the fan cables and I have no idea what controller to use. Currently looking at the NZXT Grid+ Version 2 Internal Digital 6 Fan Controller. I really need something that I can monitor the rpm with but isn't overly visible. There will be a total of 11x 120mm fans (possible increasing to 17x if i use a push/pull configuration on the top mounted radiators; and 3x 140mm fans.

Holy £$&*! 20 fans! :eek:

Soft tubing or acrylic? I am undecided.

whiterabbit · 23 Aug 2016 at 00:16

A quick question for anyone reading. My motherboard only has three 4-pin fan headers and I'll be using one for the pump. It seems I must use a fan controller.

Most fan controllers use 3-pin headers so should I ditch the PWM fans in favour of something else. What are the pros and cons?

LePhuronn · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:05

or just use a powered PWM splitter or massive PWM distribution PCB. That may you can stick the PWM cable into your mobo and power a bazillion fans straight from the PSU, but they're all PWM controlled in unison.

whiterabbit · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:17

LePhuronn said:
or just use a powered PWM splitter or massive PWM distribution PCB. That may you can stick the PWM cable into your mobo and power a bazillion fans straight from the PSU, but they're all PWM controlled in unison.

That sounds like the perfect solution. Can you recommend a product?

LePhuronn · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:21

Phobya and ModMyToys do a range of PWM distribution boards, but they're all listed on competitor sites.

This Google search brings up a load of them for your perusal.

LePhuronn · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:25

But double-check that they're actually powered, some of the ModMyToys ones split into 6 PWM fans but seem to be powered by the mobo header. No thanks!

whiterabbit · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:28

LePhuronn said:
But double-check that they're actually powered, some of the ModMyToys ones split into 6 PWM fans but seem to be powered by the mobo header. No thanks!

I hear ya. Don't wanna burn out my mobo.

Or something like this... http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002702

LePhuronn · 23 Aug 2016 at 07:34

Aye, that looks nice.

whiterabbit · 26 Aug 2016 at 00:22

Looks like I'll be using copper pipe for the watercooling loop then...

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18746728

LePhuronn · 26 Aug 2016 at 00:41

Asteria II was originally going to use copper pipe but I have some truly insane bends to make, and I just wouldn't have been able to get tight enough (and I think angled fittings look scruffy).

However, I did do a lot of research and sourcing materials. I shall share with you now if you wish.

12mm OD chrome-plated copper pipe:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111521861...49&var=410513048116&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The seller confirmed that this is half-hard copper so can be bent with a tube bender, and also won't crack the chrome plating.

Tube brake compatible with 12mm OD:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380480174760?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Or you can get rolls of 12mm OD copper pipe:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-copp...489564?hash=item2337a6209c:g:4QQAAOxyf1dTKLpg

And straighten it up with this:
http://www.kwixuk.com/product.html

Of course, being 12mm OD you can use the commonly available 12mm hardline compression fittings.

I didn't do any research into 16mm OD pipe though as I wanted 12mm.

Hope this helps out.

whiterabbit · 26 Aug 2016 at 00:53

Awesome LePhuronn!!!

16mm pipe doesn't exist to my knowledge. ID of 12mm pipe is 11.2mm so there is very little difference between this and 12/16 PETG.

I was just looking at the same pipe bender on Rainforest!

I must admit, I am a likely to go through a fair bit of pipe getting the bends perfect. I can get plain copper half hard tube for £1.80 per 500mm length which means mistakes are more affordable. I've got no idea how much plating would cost until I get some quotes in.

Can you link me to your build?

LePhuronn · 26 Aug 2016 at 00:59

Link in my sig, but I've only just started work on it after a year of planning. Life has also gotten in the way this fast fortnight so there's no real progress to show in the log. My Facebook page does have more photos though.

jasonmorris · 26 Aug 2016 at 09:31

Every S8 deserves an Aquaero 6 surely with the black bezel mount

You can then use some lovely little Splitty9's for your fans. I use them for 24 fans in my S8 with ped and it purrs along nicely.

whiterabbit · 26 Aug 2016 at 12:36

jasonmorris said:
Every S8 deserves an Aquaero 6 surely with the black bezel mount
You can then use some lovely little Splitty9's for your fans. I use them for 24 fans in my S8 with ped and it purrs along nicely.

I've looked through your posts to try and find some pictures of your system but can't find anything...

jasonmorris · 26 Aug 2016 at 15:33

Apologies. It's in bits at the moment but here is a picture from a week ago.

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Buy one you won't regret it.

whiterabbit · 26 Aug 2016 at 16:40

jasonmorris said:
Buy one you won't regret it.

I love that case. I've already bought one, just waiting on delivery. Configuration is detailed in my first post.

After researching the Aquaero I'm deffinatley going to pursue that option. Have you used their flowmeters and are they worth incorporating into the loop?

whiterabbit · 5 Sep 2016 at 15:35

The case has arrived

DSC_1414_zpsuerudux0_edit_1473085759935_zpsucvkpqbz.jpg

Frank Jeagar · 6 Sep 2016 at 09:31

A tip on using metal pipe I wanted to make sure you saw: After you cut the pipe, don't just de-burr the edge, you need to taper the outside at the end so that it slips over the O-ring easily as well, otherwise it will likely damage your O-rings even if you have smoothed the cut end nicely.

I'll have pictures in my log later today if you want to see what I mean

Frank Jeagar · 6 Sep 2016 at 09:32

Also, are you actually going to use copper pipe and get it electroplated? Or are you going with pre-plated pipe?

whiterabbit · 6 Sep 2016 at 12:03

Frank Jeagar said:
A tip on using metal pipe I wanted to make sure you saw: After you cut the pipe, don't just de-burr the edge, you need to taper the outside at the end so that it slips over the O-ring easily as well, otherwise it will likely damage your O-rings even if you have smoothed the cut end nicely.

I'll have pictures in my log later today if you want to see what I mean

Hi Frank

I am aware of this and have been closely following Pipe Bending 101 on overclock.net.

I'll be using an Ridgid 223S Inner/Outer Reamer to ensure my pipes are properly prepared to prevent o-ring damage.

I've been following your log and will keep checking in to see your progress.

Also, are you actually going to use copper pipe and get it electroplated? Or are you going with pre-plated pipe?

I will be using 12mm half-hard copper pipe. I am unsure about getting it electroplated. The copper look really appeals to me.

Have you seen this guys log..?

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15017761&postcount=769