GS30 Mod journey begins!

Soldato
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The good news is that my GS30 got back from the repair shop in excellent condition, everything is working nicely so I opened her up and popped in the two samsung 850 evo drives:

(Overclockers sell them here: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-204-SA&groupid=701&catid=2104)

MSISSD_zpshlzgjoi0.jpg


So my GPU box is in the mod shop getting ready for the really cool stuff but for now it's silly fast for day to day tasks and can still play the odd game (GTA V at 720p is perfectly playable).

I'll edit this post with more details as I get everything recorded and pictured :)

Ok so you want to replace the SSD in the GS30 yourself, you need to be an expert to perform this kind of work right? Nope. MSI have embarrassed some of the larger machines out there for ease of access *You know who you are ;) *

If you are re-installing windows after replacing the drives (remember both are in raid 0 and are both required to boot) then make sure your media is set up before hand, either create the restore disks OR grab windows 8.1 media here for a clean install:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media

Make sure you select the 8.1 (core, no tags on the end) edition and 64 bit. I have this on my USB stick for super fast installs, no key needed as it is embedded in the bios and will auto activate :)

Simply remove the 8 screws on the bottom:

GS30R1_zps2jglg5up.jpg


You will break the warranty sticker, by breaking this you are accepting responsibility for any physical damage inside the unit, your warranty should be intact otherwise though :)

Now lift the casing up from the edge sitting over the dock connector, it should easily lift up:

GS30R6_zpssi0wo12w.jpg


Revealing EVERYTHING:

GS30R2_zps27w31myf.jpg


Now is an excellent time for a repaste if you were going to do it :)

Now for the SSD, i'd advise removing the battery connector while handling any of the internal parts:

GS30R3_zpszptxcgvr.jpg


Wearing an anti static device is also recommended :) Otherwise make sure you ground yourself at least before touching the parts, a desktop computer case of a machine that is plugged into the wall is usually a good bet.

Next unscrew the screw holding down the drive:

GS30R4_zpszahvdzvc.jpg


It will pop up at an angle:

GS30R5_zpsebm9s6vz.jpg


Pull it straight out at this angle and there is no force required. Simply Insert the new one at the same angle, press down to meet the screw hole like in the picture before last and put the screw back in and make sure the drive is secure.

Don't forget to reconnect the battery!

Now just snap the casing back together and do up the screws, inspect the edges to make sure it is all flush and all connectors and in place.

To configure the new drives into a raid array press the delete key after you have powered the machine (you must start pressing quick as this device boots REALLY fast), you will be shown the main screen:

GS30R7_zpshigla8nf.jpg


Move to the advanced tab and press enter on the "Intel(R) Rapid storage Technology" option.

GS30R8_zpspp6nou8g.jpg


As my RAID array is set up I see this screen:

GS30R9_zpsov7z6db8.jpg


Here is how I set up mine:

GS30R10_zpskyrp5l8i.jpg


You will be able to select each drive and stripe size, once the array has been created you will be able to boot from your windows media and install your OS :)
 
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Soldato
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Ok so after a lot of planning the water cooling aspect is taking shape, firstly I am going for a slightly stronger PSU since I will be power modding the titan-x:

CA-405-SV_106586_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-405-SV

I'll be controlling this from the GPU so I am getting one of these:

Hotlinked image.

and one of these:

Hotlinked image.

So I need a stylish block that wont cover it ala:

WC-824-EK_109148_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-824-EK&groupid=962&catid=1520&subcat=2885

Combined with the backplate:

WC-826-EK_109158_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-826-EK&groupid=962&catid=1520&subcat=2885

I'm going for the EK pump too:

WC-675-EK_99119_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-675-EK&groupid=962&catid=2141&subcat=2142

A nice dense radiator:

WC-156-KA_81936_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-156-KA&groupid=962&catid=1523&subcat=1524

For splashes of red and high pressure fans for the dense radiator in push pull:

FG-036-CS_97285_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-036-CS

Also some red fittings as well to go with all the black:

WC-791-EK_106712_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-791-EK&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=2582

I'll get some standard 10/13 tubing, clear.

Since space is tight I am going for a very small reservoir:

WC-322-BP_60555_350.jpg


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-322-BP&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=2135

I am in the process of modding the dock for the 120mm mount in the bottom where the HDD cage used to be being mindful the new PSU is longer (but also quieter and more efficient ;) )

It will take a bit to get everything together but I think it will come out looking very well :D
 
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Soldato
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213330_zpstyoat1ec.jpg


2133mhz kingston impact black, plug and play :)

10% boost to IGP performance, 51.2 fps average to 56.8FPS in dirt 3 complete at 1080p medium :)
 
Soldato
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The new PSU is on the way now, I'll show some comparisons when I get it :) I'll also post the settings I am using to get the most out of the stock settings in XTU.
 
Soldato
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Ok, so on the stock bios you can certainly help 24/7 performance along, you may be TDP limited (since the setting is locked) but tweaking still has room to help. Here are my tweaked settings:

tweaked%20settings._zps3u526ugu.jpg


Notice I don't set the lower core count clocks higher, this means I don't need to allow for frequency spikes in my undervolt, the higher the single core speeds are the less I can undervolt and the slower the 4 core speeds (which are more important) will be.

Here is the stock settings run through XTU:

stock_zpsj0e2amxx.jpg


The Cpu frequency is the line mixed in and just below the yellow one for voltage.

Now the same test but with my settings:

tweakedrun._zpszzgj4tiy.jpg


Note that not only is it higher on average, but it's without the dips below 3ghz, this will help keep the high refresh rate monitor with the titan fed :D
 
Soldato
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20150528_230234_zpsdwd6bnqm.jpg


Specs of the new unit versus the original (the original is rated at 18 amps each rail if you can't read it).

The original is certainly a decent part that will cover the vast majority of people, I intend to really push the titan-x however so need a bit more.

So I get a quieter unit that's more efficient and has a stronger single 12V rail to give juice to the GPU/notebook :)

A size comparison of the two:

20150528_230454_zpsosr2yw10.jpg


If you want to use a dual GPU card this supply is also an option:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-381-SV
 
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Soldato
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Optimus is now working on the internal screen so no external monitor is now required.

20150601_222204_zpsphudkhva.jpg



I'm liking it now in all black :) Sorry for the out of focus shot, some more angles:

20150601_222209_zpsvc2hqn7z.jpg


20150601_222227_zpswjb8lgxf.jpg
 
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Soldato
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Oh yes for stock cooling cards there is loads of room, extra wide and even a little taller can squeeze in there. For me I am about to fill it to bursting though :D
 
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