Project: TJ07 Revived

I just ordered myself some MDPC-X. Its due by the end of the week. I'll post some pictures but I can't wait. Either way this build looks like it could become something amazing! Are you having 3 D5's running at once in the loop?

Bradley1928 said:

I just ordered myself some MDPC-X. Its due by the end of the week. I'll post some pictures but I can't wait. Either way this build looks like it could become something amazing! Are you having 3 D5's running at once in the loop?

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Thanks!

No, 2 D5's now. The AlphaCool Bay Res I got doesn't actually allow two D5's in Serial, one of the D5's would just spin without actually doing anything due to the design of that Bay Res (It's really only supposed to be used for dual loops sharing one Res, which isn't great either tbh). Instead of returning it I'm just going to run it with one D5

Harpss1ngh said:

Not sure if it will create havoc with the fill level sensor in my Aquaero pump adapter or if I need to screw the membrane into the top of the fill port but I guess we'll find out soon enough

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The fill level sensor is actually a differential pressure sensor. Rather than require you to give it one input from the bottom of the column of water and one from the top, it just assumes atmospheric pressure at the top - which is achieved by having the pressure relief membrane (PRM) at the top. You've got multiple ports on the top of that res so you can just shove the PRM in one and the input from the fill port in the other. There's nothing technically stopping you putting the PRM on the top of the fill port but you don't need to. As long as the air space above the water in the res is at atmospheric pressure, you're fine.

You're likely to need a USB connection to the thing in order to calibrate the fill level (just asks for max height and current height). You can read it over Aquabus but you can't calibrate it

Cenedd said:

The fill level sensor is actually a differential pressure sensor. Rather than require you to give it one input from the bottom of the column of water and one from the top, it just assumes atmospheric pressure at the top - which is achieved by having the pressure relief membrane (PRM) at the top. You've got multiple ports on the top of that res so you can just shove the PRM in one and the input from the fill port in the other. There's nothing technically stopping you putting the PRM on the top of the fill port but you don't need to. As long as the air space above the water in the res is at atmospheric pressure, you're fine.

You're likely to need a USB connection to the thing in order to calibrate the fill level (just asks for max height and current height). You can read it over Aquabus but you can't calibrate it

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Great, that makes perfect sense. Thanks!

I've been meaning to do a leak test before I fully assemble this and use the Aquasuite on my temporary pc to do the calibration. Technically I now have almost everything I need to finish this build now, I could get all of it done over this weekend. Let's see...

Harpss1ngh said:

use the Aquasuite on my temporary pc to do the calibration.

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Ah, you'd think that would be so easy! The Aquaero has a 5 pin header for USB - like an internal USB header. The cable supplied is therefor internal to internal but what you need is an external plug to a single internal header. Unless you want to try getting the two chassis close enough to go internal to internal. There may be convertor or ready made cable available but otherwise you can make your own by cutting the end off a USB A to B cable, stripping the wires back and splicing on an internal header - if you have a spare internal to internal with your Aquaero stuff.

Edit: I can take a picture if my thousand words don't cut it

Cenedd said:

Ah, you'd think that would be so easy! The Aquaero has a 5 pin header for USB - like an internal USB header. The cable supplied is therefor internal to internal but what you need is an external plug to a single internal header. Unless you want to try getting the two chassis close enough to go internal to internal. There may be convertor or ready made cable available but otherwise you can make your own by cutting the end off a USB A to B cable, stripping the wires back and splicing on an internal header - if you have a spare internal to internal with your Aquaero stuff.

Edit: I can take a picture if my thousand words don't cut it

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Lol no I actually meant using the internal header.

Although if I get the TJ07 tubed up I could just do it then. The pump will still spin right?

Should do if you give it power and no PWM signal.
Aquaero should default to full speed, voltage control (not PWM) so should run it at full speed.
Worst case, go on the bay and get 231946359338 then you can configure the Aquaero from a PC or laptop that works. Really useful for £3!

GTX980ti SLI vs GTX1080

Just a quick update!

I've seen some videos like this one: which shows a GTX1080 beating a single 980Ti and Titan x, but being beaten by a pair of 980ti's in SLI!

Now I'm pretty sure my setup with 1x480, 2x240 rads can easily accommodate a 2nd card and I have a beefy PSU that can take it (I have a Seasonic M12II EVO Edition 850W '80 Plus Bronze' Fully Modular Power Supply[/B] AND an Enermax Platimax 750w '80 Plus Platinum' Modular Power Supply (EPM750AWT))

What are anyone's thoughts? I think 850W will be enough (Even if it's a 80 plus bronze), but could I get away with the 750W Platinum?

Also I think my i7 950 is still good for two 980's in SLI, but probably not much more.

Edit - probably need a 1000-1200w PSU

Does SLI these days work nicely? Last time I played with it was around the GTX680s. I think there were issues with it not being overly smooth and not supported by all games. If those issues aren't sorted out then one 1080 is less grief.
Obvious benefits of less power, less heat. Should have enough rads for the heat but power?

Cenedd said:

Does SLI these days work nicely? Last time I played with it was around the GTX680s. I think there were issues with it not being overly smooth and not supported by all games. If those issues aren't sorted out then one 1080 is less grief.
Obvious benefits of less power, less heat. Should have enough rads for the heat but power?

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SLI is fully supported, 6XX was a long long time ago so I don't see how that is even an issue, especially since so many reviews and benchmarks showing SLI, even Quad SLI with amazing performance. If they still had that issue 4 years later they'd have some very angry customers.

Fair enough. I know I'm out of date on SLI, just thought I'd throw it in, in case it was still a relevant consideration.

Nice

Update!

Another update!



First thing.....
Just grabbed a 2nd Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti STRIX DC3 OC Graphics Card for a decent discounted price.

So now I need:

* a 2nd EKWB Nickel Waterblock
* Black EKWB Backplate
* EK Plexi SLI Terminal thingy - I have a plexi terminal I ordered for a single card, so might swap it instead of trying to stick tubing between 2 terminals!
* SLI bridge
I have a crappy ribbon SLI bridge but they look crap. The EVGA bridge's LED won't work on my Asus GPU's as it's only supported on EVGA branded boards. I'm hoping the Asus ROG dual SLI Bridge LED will work and can be controlled via the Nvidia thingy. I can't see any mention of my GPU's supporting the LED on the Asus ROG bridge however. Wondering if they do, whether the LED is RGB so can be changed to some blue to match my blue UV reactive Mayhems X1 coolant!


Second thing.....

I have decided to keep my Motherboard now and swap out the 4 core 8 thread 45nm 130W TDP i7 950 to a 6 core 12 thread 32nm 95W Xeon X5650 or higher . Xeon's while not officially supported by the Asus P6X58D-E do work as plenty of people online have overclocked Xeon x5650's on these, apparently they can push 4.9GHz on water! That'll sort out any bottlenecks, if any and it is fully supported by the x58 chipset!

The only thing I'm worried about are locked multipliers since the i7 950 is unlocked but the Xeon won't be....

I have a choice to go for:
Core i7-980X (about 180 quid) - 32nm
Xeon X5650 (can be got for like 50 quid)
Xeon X5660 (about 80 quid)
Xeon X5670 (found one for about 70 quid)
Xeon X5680 (found one for about 170 quid)
Xeon x5690 (The best one you can get on 1366, but very rare and expensive - approx £300-400)


So I'm trying to decide which one would be best for performance and overclockability over water (obviously within reason in terms of price difference)

Third Thing...

I will need a new power supply! I see this on OCUK: AX1500i Digital ATX 80 Plus Titanium Modular Power Supply (CP-9020057-UK)

I saw some complaints with teh AX1200i blowing up, but nothing with the AX1500i. So I will probably get this one.



If anyone has any suggestions please don't hesitate to give your input

Harpss1ngh said:

SLI is fully supported, 6XX was a long long time ago so I don't see how that is even an issue, especially since so many reviews and benchmarks showing SLI, even Quad SLI with amazing performance. If they still had that issue 4 years later they'd have some very angry customers.

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SLI is hit and miss at best, hopefully it works out ok for you!

I can save you some sanity on the SLI bridge LED. Read this log from post 74 on.

Unless they've changed it, LED is not RGB and to make it really awkward it's a red LED with a red filter so you can't easily just change the filter out either.

Telecaster said:

SLI is hit and miss at best, hopefully it works out ok for you!

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The SLI technology itself isn't the issue, it's game developers and their implementation of it in certain games.

Nvidia are addressing that with Pascal anyway.

Cenedd said:

I can save you some sanity on the SLI bridge LED. Read this log from post 74 on.

Unless they've changed it, LED is not RGB and to make it really awkward it's a red LED with a red filter so you can't easily just change the filter out either.

Click to expand...

Thanks, that saved me a huge pain in the ass. It's a shame the led's can't be easily changed as I'm not too bad with a soldering iron and soldered some IR LEDS to a pcb a couple weeks ago.

I probably don't want a Red glow in my case. Not sure how that would look. I went out of my way to even get the blue LED Aquaero 6 xt imported from Germany due to shirt supply here so should stick with the theme...

No problem. It just rang a bell and I managed to find which thread it was on. It looked like it is technically possible to change the LED but they're the really small SMD type which would need a really fine soldering iron and a magnifying glass....and the ability to shrug it off if it all goes wrong!

Why is it even now I see a TJ07 and think Phwoaaar, they just got it so right with that case.

BeeP said:

Why is it even now I see a TJ07 and think Phwoaaar, they just got it so right with that case.

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I know, right! Not bad for a case that started production at the turn of the 21st century!