***The Official Manly Shaving Thread***

Soldato
Joined
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On the Amiga500
So here it is, it's official, it has stars!

Firstly, if anyone has any info they feel should be added or amended in these initial posts, please tell me and I will edit accordingly. This will help prevent losing your good information in the myriad of posts.

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Are you fed up of shaving? Do you use a Mach3/Cartridge razor? Do you suffer from razor burn, ingrowing hairs and agitated skin? Is shaving a daily grind? Are Mach3 cartridges costing you a small fortune?? We could help! It's time to stop shaving like you did when you were back at school and become a real man. Read on!

AhtPowZo


I wanted to create this new thread as the old thread was becoming very cluttered with the same questions. Hopefully, to help those new to DE shaving, this new thread will help you by answering many of your FAQ's in the OP.

Much of the information in this post has been shamelessly ripped from the old thread and other informative forums dedicated to shaving.

So the original shaving thread clearly became geared towards DE shaving only, and that is how we want to keep it here. So lets start with the basics.


What is DE Shaving and what are the benefits?

Double Edge (DE) Shaving is shaving with the use of a double edge safety razor. It is considered to be a traditional style of shaving and is usually accompanied with the use of a shaving brush and cream. It is probably what your granddad used to use before cartridge razors were mass marketed. Despite the endorsement by big celebrities and the huge marketing behind them, cartridge razors are looking less and less desirable for men who just want a decent shave. More of us are turning back to the old school where we know lies a better, stress free shave.

Comfort
When mastered, it will undoubtedly result in a comfortable and enjoyable shave. A DE shave will result in a cleaner much smoother shave than a cartridge. For a cartridge shave to be truly effective, the beard needs to be at a short length, ideally only 24 hours of growth for most men. If a man skips a day, his hair may become too long, and the cartridge will have a tendency to pull. Because of the smaller blade gaps, it will also take many more passes over the skin to effectively reduce the beard all the way down for a clean shave. Because of the tugging and irritation from multiple passes, many men hate shaving and don't do it every day. This causes the beard hair to be longer, and thus you have a vicious cycle.

Ingrown Hairs
Mach 3's have a tendency to agitate things like ingrown hairs. They molest them and can make your face very sore. Additionally the 3 blades will remove more layers of skin and can push the hair under the skin causing ingrowns themself. They can cause lumps, spots and rashes. A single blade of a DE razor won't damage your skin as badly as a mach3, it will give your face more chance to heel from the shave

Using a shaving brush
Using a brush to create a lather for your face is beneficial as it softens the skin, raises your whiskers and creates a slick lather barrier.

Cost
DE shaving can cost much less than cartridge shaving. Lets assume we shave every day for a year, the maths are simple..


Mach 3
Gillette Mach 3 Razor +1 blade £4.00
1 Pack of blades (8) £14.00
Shave foam £4
Shave Balm £5
Initial Purchase total £27
6x Packs blades £84 (assuming you make a cartridge last approx 1 week)
11 x Shave Foam £44
11 x Shave Balm £55
Refill total £183
Grand total after 1yr £210


DE Shaving
DE Razor with one blade £25
1 pack of blades (10) £3
1 Tub Shaving Cream £7
Shave Balm £5
Shaving Brush £15
Initial Purchase total £55
180 blades £25 (Assuming a blade last 2 days)
3 x Tub Shaving Cream £21
11 x Shave Balm £55
Refill Total £101
Grand Total after 1 yr £156


Considering the annual refill cost of DE is so much cheaper, you can save a small fortune over your lifetime of shaving.

*Note that DE shaving can be made even cheaper with budget shave creams, balms and brushes (see below for the "SPEC ME" post on typical initial shave set ups). On the flip side, DE shaving can become quite a hobby. With some members collecting dozens of vintage razors and a plethora of shave creams. DE shaving has become quite an expense for some of us :D
 
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Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
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On the Amiga500
DE Razors

There are so many different types of DE razors it can be difficult knowing which to purchase. For a beginner though, there are two clear favourites amongst forum members...

The Merkur 34C
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The Edwin Jagger DE89L
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These are both very good quality razors that will last you a life time. They are of mild aggression meaning you are less likely to destroy you face the first time. They are also non-adjustable, which means that should you desire a more aggressive shave later in life you would have to look at buying another razor.

Later down the line you might want something adjustable such as..

The Merkur Futur
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The Vintage Gillette Slim
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More razors recommended by members:

FaTip Grande Italian Open Comb Safety Razor
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Not overly aggressive but aggressive enough to mow easily through coarse stubble and give the vast majority of users a close, smooth shave after only two passes.
The open comb construction ensures that you always have a layer of shaving cream / soap between the razor and the face.

I tested this razor with one day, three days and five day stubble using Feather DE Razor Blades and in keeping with the Italian theme, Cella Shaving Cream. I have a medium heavy growth.
I got the closest, smoothest, burn free shaves with the three and five day stubble which leads me to believe that this razor will suit those who don't shave daily and those with heavy growth. I loved the retro styling, very smart.

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Shaving Brushes

Use a Brush!
Using a brush is arguably the most beneficial part in any shave. Whether you use a DE razor, cartridge or open blade, you should really use a brush. Why?...

Softening Skin: Brushes get underneath the beard, allowing shaving products to further penetrate and tenderize.

Raising Whiskers: While below the beard, the brush stands facial hair at attention, making it easier for the razor to remove it. Brushes also help to lift out stubborn ingrown hairs by acting as a light exfoliant. This is in direct contrast to shave cream application by hand, which tends to mat down facial hair.

Creating A Slick Barrier: The moistened brush, combined with shaving cream, creates an ultra-lubricated coat upon which a razor can glide. Consequently, less razor pressure is required to achieve a close shave.

The Lather: The warm and pleasant lather a brush creates is simply the cherry on top.​
What kind of brushes are there?
As with razors, there are also many different brushes on the market. You can find badger hair brushes, boar hair, synthetic and mixed. The consensus is to stick with a pure badger hair brush. Badger hair is different to many types of fur - like human hair it absorbs water and it is this characteristic that makes badger hair perfect for shaving brushes. Water is the key element in a good shave and the more a brush can hold, the better the lather and shave will be. The fine tips of the hairs help to make a smooth and creamy lather and the exceptional softness of badger-hair cleanses the face gently, giving a comfortable and reliable shave. Badger hair brushes come in different grades from Best, Super and Silver-tip, the latter being the better and most expensive. Pure badger hair brushes vary wildly in price with the cheapest at around £11-£20 and the most expensive over £100!

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Best Badger Shaving Brush - this is an excellent quality of pure badger hair. It is normally regarded as the benchmark standard of shaving brush manufacturers. The hair is harvested from the majority of the pelt, including the belly. It is generally darker in colour although the colours of individual hairs vary from grey and brown to black. This quality creates lather far superior to that resulting from the use of a synthetic bristle brush or boar brush.

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Super Badger Shaving Brush - this is the finer hair from the back of the badger, it is longer and softer than ‘best’ badger and, because it is finer, requires more hairs to fill a brush. This high quality grade of badger hair is only used in hand filled brushes. Visually, the badger bundle displays a distinctive black band capped with pure white tips and is presented in a natural fan shape, using the natural hair ends to create the shape and softness.

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Silver tip badger hair shaving brush - this is the highest quality of all. The finely graded and sorted pure badger hair is the softest, rarest and most expensive badger hair; with natural untrimmed silver tips, it is the highest quality available in shaving brushes worldwide. The pure colouring of this hair is enhanced by careful hand grading and filling. The shape of our silver tip filled brushes is created by hand. The long hair from the neck of the animal is ultra soft, flexible and will provide years of luxurious shaving.

A budget "Best" brush will do you just fine. Anything at the high end of the price bracket tends to be collectors items, custom built jobs or specialist pieces. It is personal preference of course, but if you're into DE shaving for the cost benefits stick with the budget range.

Which brush should I buy?

The Progress Vulfix 660 Pure Badger Shaving Brush is a steal at £16.50
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Diamond Edge sell the Super (aka Simpsons best) version for £16.20, they've even added two more sizes. It's much better than the scratchy Pure badger version.

http://diamondedgeltd.com/acatalog/Progress-Vulfix-shaving-brushes.html
 
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Soldato
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Double Edge (DE) Razor Blades

Choosing the right blade is down to personal preference. No one can choose the blade for you, it kind of chooses you. We all have different skin and hair types. A blade that one person may find terrible could be perfect for someone else. This is why you should consider purchasing a sample pack of blades first and see what works for you

Connaught Shaving do a good selection pack for £9.90 here
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Some of the favourites among forum members include:

My personal favs are the Feathers and the Gillette 7o'clock "Greens"
Blades.jpg
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Remember that DE blades are usually good for only a few shaves, then you need to replace them. When buying in bulk though they work out to cost mere pennies each :)

My rule of thumb is that as soon as the blade begins to feel dull, I replace it.​


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Shave Creams and After Shave Care

Shave Cream
Firstly, ditch the shave foam. A pressurised can of chemicals is not good for your face and they tend to dry your skin out. Use a nourishing and reputable shave cream such as those by Taylor of Bond Street (ToBS), Trufitt & Hill and Proraso. Whilst these creams are more expensive to buy, they are more kinder to your face and a tub will last much longer than a can of foam.

There are cheaper alternatives to these luxury soaps and creams in the guise of palmolives own shave cream. Many members insist on using the palmolive brand in order to keep the DE experience truly within budget. Palmolive creates an excellent lather and has a neutral smell. It costs around £1 in the bargain shops/poundland shops.

Tried and tested creams. Here are some creams members have used and approve of.

Truefitt & Hill No.10
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Less drying than most. Softer texture, easy to use more unnecessarily. Good lubrication. Good cushioning. Scent very subtle, possibly too subtle when compared with the Geo F Trumper or Proraso.
Buy from Creightons £4.48


St James Cedarwood & Clarysage shaving cream
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One of my favourites, very creamy.
Texture: Creamy on the fluffy side, which is a pro, because the jar is not too wide. Loading a large brush is still simple enough

Scent: Highly individual. The cedar note is quite dominant, but there are hints of flowers and spices. A warm scent I really like a lot.

Latherability: Did I mention that this cream is advertised as a brushless one? And it works. Using a brush to create lather makes it literally explode. The resulting lather is firm, rich, and creamy. A little cream goes a long way, and the lather lasts a long time, even when slightly cold.

Cushion: Very good. Glide is also good. No complaints at all in this department.

Moisturising: More than sufficient. St James also offer an aftershave balm which I shall review shortly. It is not required, though.

Price: Ridiculously low. The going rate in the US seems to be USD 16. The price in GBP is even lower. Compared to what some self proclaimed artisans charge, this cream is a steal. For starters, it will blow the hyped Bomb out of the water single handedly.

Overall impression: A seriously good cream at a killer price. If you want an alternative to Caraceni, here you go. Enjoy.
Buy from Creightons £4.99


ToBS Sandalwood Shave Cream
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This is a favourite among many. It's a best seller on most of the shaving websites and for good reason.
Fragrance pleases me with identifiable sandalwood, musk and just a hint of spice. Lingers the right amount. Cream is the consistency you would expect. Lathers very well, good lubrication. Price is reasonable for the good creams.


Aaran Aromatics Citrus Bay Shave Cream
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It's kind of my "save for best" soap, because it smells so good! (sad huh?).
A sophisticated blend of woody patchouli, bay and nutmeg, softened by delicate lavandin, cedar, vetiver and lemon.


REAL SHAVE 100ML MENS SENSITIVE SHAVE CREAM CLASSIC
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Simple, cheap and ok to use on sensitive skin.
Creightons for just £1.10


Palmolive Palm Extract Shave Stick
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For the price, this stick is fantastic. It will last you ages too. Pick it up from high street drugstore for £1!!

I recommend the following soaps in no particular order:-

- MWF
- VITOS Super Extra Coconut
- Lea stick
- D R Harris Almond
- D R Harris Windsor
- Proraso Menthol


Ingram is the business in this weather.

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(old pic)

Pros:
Natural ingredients.
Big menthol kick.
One of the best for post shave feel, probably down to the lanolin.
Made in Surrey.
Fairly cheap. £1.75p from superdrug
Light old school scent. (menthol with a touch of lemon, think Proraso without the eucalyptus)

Cons:
Prone to separation, possibly a due to a lack of heavy emulsifier/surfactant. Give it a shake and the water mixes back in easily enough.
A bit harder to lather than creams/soaps containing foaming detergents, especially with hard water, but get the water/cream ratio right and it's very good.
Amount of cream needed, which is almost double something like Palmolive/RS. (Who cares! It's cheap enough :p)

Conclusion:
A national treasure, try it out now! (unless you hate menthol :p)





After Shave Care
Gone are the days of throwing alcohol on your face in an absurd kind of sadistic man test. This can just agitate your freshly shaved skin and cause rashes. Instead use a quality post shave balm, to soothe your skin and "seal" it. I also insist on a moisturiser to prevent any further dryness.

Taylor of Old Bond St Shaving Shop Aftershave Gel (75ml)
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£11.99 Here.

The scent isn't too overpowering and doesn't last long so it's a good base for any aftershave splash or cologne you care to use after it. It does have a pleasant scent but it just doesn't linger.

This balm does exactly what it's supposed to. If you have an irritated face after your shave, ToBS balm will really calm it down and that's partly due to the fact that it has no alcohol and because it contains witch hazel. It will leave your face feeling smooth and soft every time.

It also goes a long way, one 75ml tube will last for many months when used daily.
 
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Soldato
OP
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Location
On the Amiga500
Spec me a Shave Set


Extreme Budget Set
Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE89L (Plus 5 Derby DE Blades) - £21.99
Bristle Brush - £1.11 (can also be had from most home bargain stores).
Popular Blade Sample Pack (60 Blades) - £9.90
Palmolive Classic Shave Lather For Men/Palmolive for Men Classic Shave Stick with Palm Extract - £1.85 (can be had from high street store ~£1)
Simple Moisturiser - £3 (Tesco)
TOTAL £37.85

Beginner Budget Set
Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE89L (Plus 5 Derby DE Blades) - £21.99
Vulfix Super Badger 660S shaving brush [Med] - £15.20
Popular Blade Sample Pack (60 Blades) - £9.90
Proraso Shaving Cream Jar (150ml) - £5.69
Proraso Pre and Post Shave Cream (100ml) - £9.19
Styptic Pencil - £3.99 [Can be had for ~£1 from SuperDrug]
TOTAL £65.96

Standard Startup Set
Merkur 34C Safety Razor - £30
Edwin Jagger Best Badger Brush Medium (Ebony) - £26.99
Popular Blade Sample Pack (60 Blades) - £9.90
TRUEFITT & HILL FINEST SHAVE CREAM - £4.99
Taylor of Old Bond St Shaving Shop Aftershave Gel (75ml) - £11.99
Styptic Pencil - £3.99 [Can be had for ~£1 from SuperDrug]
TOTAL £87.86

Luxury Startup Set
Feather Stainless Steel Safety Razor (AS-D1) - £150
Kent BLK4 Silver Tip Badger Shaving Brush (Black) - £54.99
Popular Blade Sample Pack (60 Blades) - £9.90
Castle Forbes Lime Essential Oil Shaving Cream (200 ml) - £20
Truefitt & Hill 1805 Aftershave Balm (100ml) - £29.99
Styptic Pencil - £3.99 [Can be had for ~£1 from SuperDrug]
TOTAL - £268.87


Here is a list of online suppliers, tried and tested by forum members...
www.shaving-shack.com
http://www.executive-shaving.co.uk/
connaughtshaving.com/
www.beautyatcreightons.com
www.nkdman.co.uk/

i will provide you with some links to what i have found to be the best and cheapest most effective shaving products since i started a few months ago. 1st up is the razor and shave soap ( from same place competitive pricing)

razor
http://www.nkdman.co.uk/muhle-r41-double-edge-safety-razor/

soap ( perfect for sensitive skin)
http://www.nkdman.co.uk/mitchells-wool-fat-shaving-soap/

blades- always get a sampler pack as each one works different on everyones face, the below set are smooth and one of them if not most will work for you
http://www.nkdman.co.uk/de-razor-blade-sample-pack-1/

i use a cheap plastic food bowl to create lather in, if you want a proper shaving bowl that just stretches the budget.

Next is the brush along with ten free feather blades ( very sharp blades / sharpest available, do not use them until you have practised a fair few times with technique and other blades
brush - grosvenor badger and bristle ( amazing for 10.99 with 10 free feather blades)

http://www.shaving-shack.com/progress-vulfix-404-grosvenor-mixed-badger-and-boar-bristle-shaving-brush.html

alum block- a must to stop any nicks or cuts and to generally soothe after a shave, keep it dry after using it will last a lifetime
http://www.shaving-shack.com/alum-block.html

any other tips feel free to ask, watch some of geofatboys videos on yourube he gives great instructionals etc

just use the nivea post shave balm from asda/tesco its decent enough and doesnt cost the earth




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A Guide to DE Shaving
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=24652897&postcount=3

Video Tutorials

here is a video of the wonderful shave secret oil and the excellent and cheap open comb fatip grande razor ( i would reccomend anyone to get one) only watch if 18 or over :)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151514560512353&set=vb.649987352&type=2&theater


------------------------------------------------------------------------


...More Coming Here Soon...

Reference:
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2008/01/04/how-to-shave-like-your-grandpa/
http://leisureguy.wordpress.com/2006/07/10/a-guide-to-the-gourmet-shaving-experience/
 
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Tea Drinker
Don
Joined
13 Apr 2010
Posts
18,416
Location
Sunny Sussex
Are you fed up of shaving? No
Do you use a Mach3/Cartridge razor? Yes
Do you suffer from razor burn? No
ingrowing hairs? No
and agitated skin? No
Is shaving a daily grind? No

Never understood the whole manly shaving thing, my mach3 is perfect.
 
Caporegime
Joined
8 Sep 2005
Posts
29,917
Location
Norrbotten, Sweden.
Same here Mach 3 for life.

Dad used them spent his life blotting blood, he taught me at age 15 to use a double edged, i spent the next 3 years blotting blood until i discovered Mach 3 or similar cartridge razors.

They are hideous things i never understood this forums fascination with DE razor blades and the overpriced mercur 32c "or whatever its called" handle.
 
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Soldato
Joined
11 Apr 2006
Posts
7,045
Location
Earth
I can have up to a week or two's growth and still use a mach 3 razor to chomp it all off. Have to go over it about 3 times but my skin is smooth and fresh. Only area I get any kind of spots/rash is bottom of my neckline where I have to go across the grain to get a good cut.

I buy these when on offer at half price and stock up http://www.superdrug.com/gillette-mach-3-disp-razor/invt/544868&bklist= and 3 pack usually lasts at least 3 months

I use http://www.superdrug.com/king-of-shaves-alphagel-shave-gel-anti-bacterial-150ml/invt/574414 and it usually lasts me at least 6 months
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
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Location
On the Amiga500
I used to shave with a Mach 3, then I got myself an electric shaver. Now I just go with a few days stubble then use my electric razors trimmer to knock it back down.



Why are you so un-open to others methods of shaving?

:confused: Where did you glean that I am unopen to other ofrms of shaving? I shaved with a Mach3 for years. I have also tried an electric. How does this make me un-open? I'm glad Mach3 works for you guys. Personally I'd rather not spend all my money on overpriced blades, and treat myself to nice shave creams instead.

Personal preferences :)
 
Associate
Joined
21 Feb 2004
Posts
651
Location
Durham
Good idea to start a new thread, a good OP too, very informative.

Personally I much prefer shaving with a DE razor, I get much better results and the whole thing is just more enjoyable. Before I discovered DE I'd pretty much stopped shaving because of razor burn etc. I have no discomfort with DEs.
 
Soldato
Joined
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Posts
7,045
Location
Earth
I'm no way against the use of these DE ones. I'd love to use one and all it comes with but my shaving habits just don't warrant it at this time.

As stated before I get through very little blades and gel with no detriment to my face.
 
Caporegime
Joined
28 Jan 2003
Posts
39,858
Location
England
:confused: Where did you glean that I am unopen to other ofrms of shaving? I shaved with a Mach3 for years. I have also tried an electric. How does this make me un-open? I'm glad Mach3 works for you guys. Personally I'd rather not spend all my money on overpriced blades, and treat myself to nice shave creams instead.

Personal preferences :)

By saying "fixed for you" when someone mentioned being happy with their Mach 3, and you changing that to "ripped off for life".
 
Don
Joined
24 Feb 2004
Posts
11,879
Location
-
I agree this was a good idea for a new thread. It turns out that I already have a Mercur 34c, I bought it a number of years ago but stopped using it when I ran out of blades and technique to stop me cutting myself open :D

I'm going to invest in a sample blade pack, badger brush and soap and give it another try I think.

I find with almost all blade types that I have to shave against the grain to get a close shave, so I eagerly await the guide on shaving :p
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
19,437
Location
On the Amiga500
Dad used them spent his life blotting blood, he taught me at age 15 to use a double edged, i spent the next 3 years blotting blood until i discovered Mach 3 or similar cartridge razors.

They are hideous things i never understood this forums fascination with DE razor blades and the overpriced mercur 32c "or whatever its called" handle.

If you was blotting blood all the time then you were quite simply doing it wrong. I haven't bled from my face since I can remember.

I never understood the fascination with paying ~£2 per cartridge blade. I don't think it is "this forums" fascination. DE shaving is used by men the world over. The world doesn't revolve around OcUK forums (maybe it does for you though :p ).
 
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