Poorly pug

Soldato
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Last week my 406TD suddenly started to cough and fart and generally misbehave, no power, no surge when the turbo spins up, rough idle, misfiring, etc. When i put my foot down it looked like a tank doing a smoke dump (top gear - tank vs range rover sport style)

Today i managed to get the inlet and turbo off and i think it's a good guess that the turbo has been breathing more than just air, combination of crappy EGR and the turbo letting go means this snot is inside the head aswell...
pugengine005.jpg


I know the inlet is supposed to be slightly textured, but this is taking things too far. :eek:
pugengine006.jpg


And here it is against the inlet that i'll be replacing it with, from a Xantia without the EGR system :D
pugengine012.jpg


Should have some goodies here tomorrow and i should be back on the road by wednesday :D

(even in this condition it's a better drive than the wifes corsa ;))

On the other hand this is the first XUD engined car i've ever had a mechanical failure on, so i can't really moan.
 
Soldato
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good comparison pic that. found similar on my HDI with 50k on it, so cleaned it all up and blanked the EGR off. ridiculous why they introduced it, total silent engine killer, not to mention the decrease in performance too.
 
Soldato
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Replacement turbo arrived today, scrapped the clag out of the inlets in the head and washed most of the rest out with a petrol soaked rag.

EGRless turbo and EGRless inlet fitted, engine ran up and STILL smoked. Rolled it out of the workshop and left it running at 2k revs for half an hour (cables ties on the fuel pump makes for a great cruise control :)) and the smoke slowly cleared.

Took it for a test drive and it was still missing the extra umph when the turbo spins up, wouldn't rev above 3k (but goes up to 4.5k when reving it at the pump), really struggled on hills.

Decided to sort the busted rear exhaust box and drive the car for a couple of days to see if anything cleared. Couldn't find anything to fit the gap, so we welded in a length of straight pipe :D
Squirted some carb cleaner into the boost takeoff pipe (the one to the top of the pump) in case some of the snot had jammed the narrow pipe and was causing the underfueling (if the pump doesn't know the engine is boosting, it won't send the extra fuel)

Started it and it STILL smoked a bit. Home time and after about a mile something must have cleared, the engine light went out and BOOM the boost came back and due to the nil back pressure the engine spins up rediculously fast (meaning it will eat what is left of my clutch rather quickly :()

But i'm mobile again and loving the increased spin up, it's somewhat grin inducing.
 
Soldato
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I was told EGR was fitted on the XUD because EU regs said all cars must have it a couple of years before the HDi would be ready and they didn't really have much choice. The results are the above and also conrod failures on certain models.

What the people who make these regs don't realise is that engines are designed a number of years in advance and by the time one is on the market it's replacement is probably alreadyin the ether.
 
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Soldato
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13 Mar 2004
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16,649
egrs are only a royal pain in the ass if the engine's breather coats the intake system with oil.

the oil in the intake by itself isnt too bad (fills the intercooler though). the soot by itself isnt too bad either, but combine the two and youre stuffed.

blank plate or catch tank sorts it. i blanked the egr on my pd130 though
 
Soldato
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I've considered removing the inlet manifold off my Hdi (has 120k on the clock) but its an engine out job realy.

:(

When i removed the inlet elbow up from the turbo to inlet manifold it was full of that lovely black thick sooty/oil combo... urghhh
 
Soldato
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I've considered removing the inlet manifold off my Hdi (has 120k on the clock) but its an engine out job realy.

:(

When i removed the inlet elbow up from the turbo to inlet manifold it was full of that lovely black thick sooty/oil combo... urghhh

dont blame you.

i did the job with the engine in, my god wish i hadnt started such a job.

2 days it took me, space is so cramped its unreal. :(
 
Soldato
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dont blame you.

i did the job with the engine in, my god wish i hadnt started such a job.

2 days it took me, space is so cramped its unreal. :(

I changed my clutch cable the other week, that was also unreal..

Same area to work in, I was cursing all afternoon trying replace the chuffin thing :o
 
Soldato
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:(

old cable snap?

nah, clutch was slipping! and the pedal didn't feel quite right travel wise.. sometimes it wouldn't come all the way back up.

So I swapped it out for a new one as I had no record of it being changed in the cars service history..

Clutch holds now! :D
 
Soldato
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nah, clutch was slipping! and the pedal didn't feel quite right travel wise.. sometimes it wouldn't come all the way back up.

So I swapped it out for a new one as I had no record of it being changed in the cars service history..

Clutch holds now! :D

interesting.

tempted to do this to stop mine from slipping, however you say its a complete PITA?
 
Soldato
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interesting.

tempted to do this to stop mine from slipping, however you say its a complete PITA?

sorry to take this O/T Op.

But.. its a PITA for sure :p

You have to remove the air intake feed, battery, battery tray. Unclip old cable from gearbox , then unclip from holder on gearbox.

Then you have to unclip the cable from inside the cabin at the front of the clutch pedal, tie some strong rope (or in my case.. a long piece of .6mm welding wire) to the plastic clip, then try and remove the cable from underneath the mastercylinder under the bonnet , you've got to get a rather large rubber grommit past the aircon pipes and other assorted junk..

Once you've got it out, untie the rope/wire from the old plastic clip, tie the new clip to it.. then tug it back through and into the cabin.

Took me a good 3 and a bit hours I reckon..

Its your call bud! don't blame me if it still slips :p

There is a thread on the GTi-6 forum thats pretty identical to what you have to do, car needs jacking up btw so you can unclip the clutch cable from the front subframe
 
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