How to insulate a shipping container?

Soldato
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I'm running a little project at the moment that might be converting a standard iso shipping container into a house, on the list of things to tackle is getting the right amount of insulation, and also the correct type.

Current rough plan is a standard 12mm plasterboard wall, supported by either 2*4" wooden stud walling or the metal type stud wall frames, don't know they're real name?

Reading here though it talks about condensation, http://www.wikihow.com/Insulate-a-Shipping-Container-Home specifically on the inside walls, I presume it means condensation within the insulation itself not on the interior plasterboard wall? What part of it would require venting, if at all? Cavity to atmosphere, or cavity to room? I know houses are built with those vent bricks around the lower sections, but don't know if they're used when cavity wall insulation is used?

I'm thinking 100MM deep loft insulation for the walls would be a good start, or on further research, possibly some kind of spray on liner first followed by loft insulation to make up the bulk. 300MM deep for the ceiling, some other junk under the floor :)

Ideas?

inspiration:
lotebpuma01.jpg
 
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VoG

VoG

Soldato
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ive seen a few documentaries on Discovery about house boats etc, & they use a spray on expanding foam type insulation, can't remember what it's made of sadly, but as it's directly on a metal skin i'm guessing it must be a corrosion inhibiter, maybe that would do it?.
 
Soldato
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I would suggest you google things such as caravan insulation or canal boat/barge insulation. I remember seeing a tv show on canal boats and they had a thin sticky material that had great insulation.
 
Soldato
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Ahh Shipping containers - the first year architecture student's weapon of choice! :p

Is this a project based in reality, education or simply a fictional hobbyist interest? :) Depending upon this, there are lots of considerations :)

Important considerations for me would be to note a shipping container generally has a monocoque construction (each panel plays a vital structurally supporting role) thus cutting apertures in for fenestration etc could lead to structural deflection or deformation. If you're looking for additional skylights, windows et al then additional framing is likely to be required.

Insulation would need to cater for both thermal and acoustic performance (acoustics are dreadful within), this usually comes in the form of a spray-foam applied directly to the inner panel, with condensation being addressed with vapour membrane and weep holes.

You'll be able to find construction details of previous container projects online which will help clarify connecting points :)
 
Soldato
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Sadly no containers in my back garden yet, I'm planning to do this in about 5 years time, I know things will have changed then in the insulation industry possibly technology wise, but good to know the basics.

Really good things to think about here. I would make sure internally the containers are completely sprayed with a rust inhibitor, now thinking about it, this would be just like the sticky black tar car type underseal stuff, perhaps this canal boat stuff is the same? Can't imagine a thin spray like this being thermally any good though. The thicker spray on stuff I think is like an expanding foam type mix, that will set hard, like AB foam I think it's called? Bubbles up like an aero to do its thermal thing.

But loft insulation is so cheap I thought 100MM of that would do wonders for me, plus would have the benefit of keeping the sound low too, that and the option of specifying 9mm (cheap) or 12mm (luxury) or acoustic (5star gold) style plasterboard.

Just not sure what gaps to leave where? Bonus with the metal studwall is it's going to be easy to weld into place.

Summer heat will be ok as insulation works both ways and aircon will be built in as well as sliding doors here and there for lots of airlfow.

Fenestration will be ok too, large openings yes, but thick walls will leave loads of room for as much steel being cut out to be welded back in the form of girders for strength. If I was to make a part of it a 'roof garden' this wouldn't be resting flat on the tops of the containers, but a floating floor using the structural mounting points and girders, much like a standard deck would use concrete posts/piers.

Thanks for the price Greebo, first I've known about that, knew they'd be affordable though!
 
Soldato
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As a realistic project I think you'll have some major planning hurdles to cover before you even consider purchasing - this will be a permanent and obvious structure and will require fairly substantial ground work.

Loft insultation will not be suitable- you will need a polyurethane spray, closed cell foam or similar. You might want to consider externally insulating the container also depending upon the projected occupancy; steel is a very conductor of heat - and thus also - heat loss; you don't want bridging to occur.

If you're serious about this project, how many containers are you looking to purchase? What will be the purpose of its occupation? Small office? Chillout room?
 
Soldato
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It's all good, won't be in the UK. Korea, Australia, Japan, NZ? Somewhere like that. I know the planning laws will have to be looked at locally, as well as sewerage but thats a minor hurdle after getting the green light on a build out of containers.

I guess this is the foam in question, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o6M4a-Fhqg&feature=related looks ace to me! Hopefully has the acoustic properties I need, but being very dense I guess it will, thick plasterboard to the rescue if not!

Jingo, in post #10 you say vapour membrane and weep holes? Can you expand (pun;) ) on that please? Do you mean use something like bathroom spec plasterboard through out the house, I think I've seen something called foil backed also? that would keep out moisture from going into the insulation and keep it in the room instead, or open a window :)
 
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I know someone planning to do exactly this in the summer. I'm visiting him this weekend so I'll pick his brains on insulation and whatnot as he's already quite deep into the plans at this stage.
 
Soldato
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Foil-backed or multi-foil insulation such as Celotex is not a counter-moisture product; the foil element is implemented to increase the thermal resistance of the insulation. This aside, it would not be a practical solution to a shipping container.

Ventilation is a continuous process - spaces require x amount of air changes per hour and cannot be left to user interactions like 'opening a window' etc.

Vapour membranes are put in place to resist moisture through material permeation or air transport (leaking)- a cavity with a membrane will usually have a weep hole to allow any build up to drip down and exit through an aperture in the outer building construction (a weep hole). Not having detailed the design of a container structure, I'm not speaking from experience; but I think you would be better insulating both faces and then consider trickle vents in any fenestration and then extracts in 'heavy usage' areas i.e. bathroom/WC/kitchen.

You have a much better chance of a successful and smooth project in any of those countries than the UK- of course engaging with a local architect would not only benefit your design but provide a working knowledge of local planning systems and will probably provide consulatancy on all aspects of the project.
 
Soldato
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build a wooden frame on the inside spray it with shredded paper mixed with something.

Look at swedish or finnish building regulations since they have the most energy efficient houses.
 
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