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Old 4th Feb 2014, 19:21   #1
NoNameNoNumber
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Plastering/ceiling advice

Evening chaps

I'm after a little advice from the guys in the know if you don't mind

Long story short-bought my first house-wallpapered top to bottom with that textured wood chip stuff. Budgeted for some plaster work and ceiling etc but I would like some opinions as this is my first proper involvement on this kind of stuff.

What I've done is stripped the wallpaper completely-all the walls and ceilings, this has inevitably revealed some poorly plasterwork!

1st question.
I have started with a 3" bolster to remove any hollow/loose sounding plaster on the theory that there's no point removing good plaster.
Is this the best plan of attack and then get a plasterer in to finish the job or am I better off boarding everywhere and skimming?

2ndly
A couple of the ceilings are no longer flat, I'm thinking of pulling them down (not all lath and plaster!) and just boarding out from scratch, some ceilings seem flat but have been patched in the past or have cracked so would it be ok to find the joists and just screw new board on top of the existing ceiling?

I want to do the job properly whilst we're in a position to still live elsewhere until the work is done (thanks mum ) but equally this isn't a money-no-object project as it really is!

Apologies if these are daft questions but any help it thoughts are massively appreciated

Many thanks

3930k/Dom Plats/RIVE/Water/970s
Last edited by NoNameNoNumber; 4th Feb 2014 at 19:37.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 19:45   #2
King85
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I'm not sure about the walls without seeing them but taking down the ceiling then plaster boarding it yourself is ridiculously easy if you have friend or 2 who could help you then just get it skimmed.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 19:49   #3
NoNameNoNumber
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So you'd recommend pulling any dubious ceilings down?

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Old 4th Feb 2014, 19:55   #4
King85
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Yes definitely if you're not happy with them. Rip out the old, place celotex insulation between the joists if you want to improve the warmth then cut your plasterboards to size hold them up with a friend then screw them in place. Really easy mate.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 20:19   #5
Lopéz
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Be warned a LOT of nasty black dust and crap will come down with the old ceiling. Other than that it's a really easy job if you have a helper (full size boards are tricky to balance on your head and quite heavy)


In a collision, there you are. In an explosion, where are you?
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 20:27   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lopéz View Post
Be warned a LOT of nasty black dust and crap will come down with the old ceiling. Other than that it's a really easy job if you have a helper (full size boards are tricky to balance on your head and quite heavy)
Yeah definitely wear the correct protection, goggles and mask
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 21:15   #7
NoNameNoNumber
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Yeah I'm an advocate of good ppe.

Looks like its best to replace all of the ceiling then instead of boarding over/repairing.

Any thoughts on the walls? I guess ceilings want doing before walls anyway

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Last edited by NoNameNoNumber; 4th Feb 2014 at 21:17.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 21:38   #8
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Go & hire a plasterboard lift, if you have a few rooms to do.
A lot easier than lifting sheets with two of you.

Definitely pull down all dodgy ceilings & as mentioned celotex insulation between the joists, save heat & cuts down the noise from above.
As already mentioned the dust created is amazing, horrible black dust gets everywhere, so block off doorways with plastic sheet.

Also wear a hard hat, a mate some years ago ended up with stitches in his head, got hit by a brick left between the joists, when we pulled the ceiling down.
Last edited by Nightglow; 4th Feb 2014 at 21:44.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 21:53   #9
NoNameNoNumber
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Plasterboard lift? I'll have a google.

All the ceilings are coming down then I've had the pleasures of stripping a lathe and plaster house some years ago... good times!

I've got me a hard hat. What size board would you recommend? 2400x1200x12.5? and also square or taper edge? (I think it's meant to be taper isn't it?)

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Old 4th Feb 2014, 22:36   #10
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Plasterboard lift can hire them, weekend, week, or look on Ebay, I bought one for £30, used it for a 3 bedroom house, then sold it afterwards back on Ebay.


Use 8x4 12.5mm square edge boards for ceiling, taper for dry lining & square edge for dot & dab.
Last edited by Nightglow; 4th Feb 2014 at 23:48.
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Old 4th Feb 2014, 23:18   #11
Mark A
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I thought tapered edge board was for if you are just going to be taping and filling the edges and square was for if you were skimming the whole thing? I only use square edge for walls and ceilings.
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 00:06   #12
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It's an easy-ish job. It's very messy, very messy… and plaster ceilings weight a lot more than you'd think. There will be a lot of waste.

Just how bad are the ceilings, how old is the house?

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 06:31   #13
darreny
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Why not overboard the ceilings?

Any loose plaster on walls knock off and get a bag of bonding to fill
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 07:12   #14
NoNameNoNumber
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Some of the ceilings are ok but most are sagging in places and/or cracked. If I board over then I would still have wonky ceilings :/

As for the walls, is this the stuff to use once I've finished digging holes? is there anything I need to know so as to not compromise the finish?

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 09:03   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoNameNoNumber View Post
Some of the ceilings are ok but most are sagging in places and/or cracked. If I board over then I would still have wonky ceilings :/
Have you been up in the loft to check it is just the plaster sagging and not the ceiling joists too?
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 09:46   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourstar View Post
Have you been up in the loft to check it is just the plaster sagging and not the ceiling joists too?
One cause of sagging ceilings is the fixings rust away, eventually the whole or part of the ceiling will come down, as it can't support it's own weight.
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 13:47   #17
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The house I'm slowly renovating has artex on nearly every ceiling ( bellway refurbed 1993 - shell from 1930's ).

Current thinking ( not yet tested ) is its asbestos free so was planning on knocking off the high spots and skimming over. The ceilings are in good condition but i'm now thinking would it be worth ripping them all down to remove the artex fully ?
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 13:57   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottehBotteh View Post
Current thinking ( not yet tested ) is its asbestos free so was planning on knocking off the high spots and skimming over. The ceilings are in good condition but i'm now thinking would it be worth ripping them all down to remove the artex fully ?
Artex, hate it, wouldn't even consider skimming it, skimmed a artex ceiling here, six months later some of the artex came away from the plaster board, was a waste of time skimming it.

Better to completely replace the ceilings with 12.5mm plasterboard & skim.
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 14:55   #19
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Advice from someone who had a load of artexing skimmed over - reboard the ceiling then get it skimmed.

Yes its a PITA to board it, but its cheap and you will be glad once its done, and will have a very solid new ceiling. Its also very easy to bosh a load of cabling in for downlights with the whole thing down, too.

I would personally always use 9mm for ceilings mind, more than strong enough, easier and lighter to work with, and cheaper.

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 15:09   #20
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I would personally always use 9mm for ceilings mind, more than strong enough, easier and lighter to work with, and cheaper.
Depends on the joist spacing, 400mm then 9.5mm would be ok, 600mm then 12.5mm is preferred.

I usually use 12.5mm plasterboard for all ceilings regardless of spacing, will reduce some of the noise from the floor above, & give a firmer ceiling, plus a 30 minutes fire rating.

Some new builds developments are recommending 15mm or thicker plasterboard for the ceilings now.
Last edited by Nightglow; 5th Feb 2014 at 16:05.
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 15:13   #21
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I thought the trend with newbuilds was to make them for as little money as humanly possible? I am surprised they dont go with cardboard

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 15:38   #22
NoNameNoNumber
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I was just gonna use 12.5mm 2400x1200 for all of my boarding needs on the basis that that I'll need them delivering either way and a pallet full must be cheaper than x amount of one size and y if another.

Square edge for everything that is being skimmed is it?

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 15:42   #23
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Yeah go square edge if skimming (which you should, taped joints are naff).

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 16:02   #24
Nightglow
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Originally Posted by NoNameNoNumber View Post
I was just gonna use 12.5mm 2400x1200 for all of my boarding needs on the basis that that I'll need them delivering either way and a pallet full must be cheaper than x amount of one size and y if another.

Square edge for everything that is being skimmed is it?
Some builder merchants offer cash accounts,(pay as you go account) you don't have to be trade, I have one, presently getting a 30% discount rate with them,other ones giving less, well worth having if your doing a lot of renovation work.
Last edited by Nightglow; 5th Feb 2014 at 16:11.
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Old 5th Feb 2014, 16:22   #25
NoNameNoNumber
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Ah that's good to know, I'll give my Jackson's and Travis Perkins a call

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Old 5th Feb 2014, 16:36   #26
Nightglow
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Ah that's good to know, I'll give my Jackson's and Travis Perkins a call
You sometime find some of the smaller independent builder merchant's will give you a better deal than the big names.

So, it well worth checking to what is in your area, & surrounding area as some will still deliver to you.

I have one merchant 10 miles away, but they will still deliver to me.
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Old 6th Feb 2014, 07:40   #27
NoNameNoNumber
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Ceilings are coming down, the mrs cant reach off the short steps I have so I'm pulling them down while she shovels the crap away

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