Nest -heat link control wiring to Ideal Logic plus 30 boiler

[lynchnigel]

Hi all i'm just in the process of completing my Nest V3 (heat link) which is wired to my Ideal logic combi boiler.
I've done the Nest to the heat link.
I've also done the 230V from the combi to the Heat link using a 5 core heat resisting cable.
Just the control to do which i needed advice about as to where to stick them
Heat Link side:
2 is common
3 is Normally Open (NO) as per this image:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/support-assets.nest.com/images/Amber/a2-cables/a2-cables.jpg

The combi when brought comes like this:
http://i.imgur.com/DYu7ilI.jpg

Diagram B of this is the same for mine to:
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/945299/Ideal-Logic-Plus-Combi-24.html?page=30#manual
Would that mean its the Room stat - timer connections I need to take to 2-3 of the Heat Link?
Theres a voltage on the room stat connection not 230v though.

Reading this thread he says different?
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=28876511

I just basically need the common and switched live connections iif anyone can help it would be appreciated

 

[lynchnigel]

Do we not have any sparkies to help?

 

[joelk2]

not a sparky but have fitted 2 now. one in my own home and one in a mates place.



thats what you wanna look at.

imagine the heat link as the room stat part of it (its basically an expensive switch)

so connect live on the boiler to (2) on the nest

call for heat on nest (3) needs to connect to second from right on this image.



ive used 5 core cable on both installs ive done made sure i wrapped the live wires with brown tape to ensure if i ever go back to it for any reason i know its live

 

[joelk2]

 

[HardwareGeek]

You want to shift the red and black 1 to the right, so the nest is now a stat as you said, remove the link wire if present

If the particular boiler doesn't use mains for the stat connection, some use ELV so could be 12v or volt free contacts, sending mains down there wont do the PCB any good

 

[lynchnigel]

Thanks very much both for helping, I will try wiring it as Hardwaregeek says and go from there.

Incidently I've ripped out the original as the wiring was a mess which had a Danfloss 240 therm but a semi nice programmer from Heatmiser and so thought I would replace the messy wiring with this with also can use the 5Ghz WIFI frequency moving forward less interference and will be able to use it with automation. If anyone is interested have a look at IFTTT what it can do with the Nest.

well illustrated joelk2 by the way they left no room for getting it wrong thank you.

 

[lynchnigel]

And looking at (which is in the manual) it does show mains going through the circuit?
We did originally have a danfloss (240v) thermastat doing exactly this originally before i ripped out the dodgy wiring.

 

[HardwareGeek]

And looking at (which is in the manual) it does show mains going through the circuit?
We did originally have a danfloss (240v) thermastat doing exactly this originally before i ripped out the dodgy wiring.

Guessing the heat link can handle both mains and volt free switching, never fitted a nest but hive can do both.

Main or not depends on the boiler not the stat - in the boiler connections pic where the stat connection is linked out, boiler maybe supplying mains and expecting mains back or maybe supplying 12v or volt free and putting mains down there may do damage

if you remove the link between the 2 room stat connections and run 2 cores, one from each stat terminal and have the heat link switch those then you cant get it wrong afaik, looks like in that pic would be left and right room stat connections for voltfree

or you could measure voltage to see it if is mains and then run only 1 core as in the manual you linked and take mains from the supply to the heat link

 

[lynchnigel]

Guessing the heat link can handle both mains and volt free switching, never fitted a nest but hive can do both.

Main or not depends on the boiler not the stat - in the boiler connections pic where the stat connection is linked out, boiler maybe supplying mains and expecting mains back or maybe supplying 12v or volt free and putting mains down there may do damage

if you remove the link between the 2 room stat connections and run 2 cores, one from each stat terminal and have the heat link switch those then you cant get it wrong afaik, looks like in that pic would be left and right room stat connections for voltfree

or you could measure voltage to see it if is mains and then run only 1 core as in the manual you linked and take mains from the supply to the heat link

Indeed I'm of the same mind, better low or no volts rather than 240V and if it works all the better

 

[lynchnigel]

Yep squirting the voltage from the far right side (Room stat /timer there is no link on mine) of:


using that as common on 2 of the heat link and the other on 3 of the heat link

sorted, I sort of knew but good to bounce it of people to make sure.

thanks guys.

It would have been good to use the opentherm connections, but you have to buy the harness and mess more and not sure the gain out weights the messing.

 

[lynchnigel]

I've actually (after buying a harness) that this Ideal combi already had the harness! so its now wired for the opentherm, which allows control of the hot water temperature and modulation. easy to wire and took longer to put the wiring around the sides of the boiler to the heat link.
for information - the connection is on the opposite side (Right side) when you pull the front down and the connections from the control panel need moving before anything is plugged in and damages the PCB board.

 

[z_dane_23]

I've actually (after buying a harness) that this Ideal combi already had the harness! so its now wired for the opentherm, which allows control of the hot water temperature and modulation. easy to wire and took longer to put the wiring around the sides of the boiler to the heat link.
for information - the connection is on the opposite side (Right side) when you pull the front down and the connections from the control panel need moving before anything is plugged in and damages the PCB board.

Hi Lynchnigel, I have the same setup as yours (mine is combi 35 so needed to buy the harness) and need some help on a few questions below please:
1. Opentherm Harness, once you install it, I assume you no longer need the call for heat wire (black wire on the left that currently goes to the room stat)?
2 Once wired for Opentherm, is there polarity when connecting from the boiler to nest heat link?
3. I assume your wiring goes as follows: L&N&Gnd from mains goes to the L&N&Gnd of the boiler (do you short the room stat/timer terminals like the picture from the manual?) and L&N of the heatlink, and from the boiler's opentherm harness a couple of wires goes to OT1 and OT2 of the heat link?
4. What do you mean by"the connections from the control panel need moving"?

Would most appreciate if you can help clarify the above!

 

[emmseegee]

Recently moved into a new home with one of these boilers in it and havent had the chance to look at the wiring much due to being straight back out the door to work away from home again. I am going to install the old nest thermostat from my old home but my new heating system is split across two levels. A thermostat downstairs and another upstairs. Ive got a feeling i may be back on here for information when I get around to looking at it.

 

[Help!]

I have the same boiler but with a wireless thermostat currently installed, do I have to disconnect the receiver for that in order for Nest to work?

 

[MassiveJim]

I have the same boiler but with a wireless thermostat currently installed, do I have to disconnect the receiver for that in order for Nest to work?

Yes

the nest comes with its own wireless receiver

 

[FlyingFish]

With a logic boiler you would benefit from using the open therm connection rather than just using the switching method. And the Nest is open therm enabled.

Mick

 

[SJHarrison1992]

Hello

I have the ideal imini30 and new nest 3rd gen and I'm struggling to get the heating to work

My previous set up was like this

1 & 2 are my existing manual thermostat
3,4,5 are my power supply coming from a socket

I have now removed 1 & 2 (these will go into T1 & T2 if i've understood correctly once i've got the heatlink working)

I've got a 3 core cable -
brown is going into live and will go into 2 on the heat link
blue is neutral and will go into N on the heat link
green/yellow is going to replace the call to heat so will go on the 2nd left on the boiler and go into 3 on the heat link
I've also added a loop to the 1st and 2nd left as that is what someone has above

Here is the wiring for the boiler as explained above

Here is the wiring to the heat link as explained above - with the addition of a loop from 2 to live


When i turn my boiler on, the heat link will pulse a blue light to show that it is ready to link with the thermostat - when I click the button the heating and hot water (not needed) will turn green, but the boiler doesn't fire

Anyone know what I've done wrong / missed, or can you simply not fire the heating before linking the thermostat ?

 

[Simmz]

Any reason why you can't just plug the thermostat in and test if it's the cause as can move it elsewhere or wall mount later if necessary. Not too sure on your question, but at the moment it won't know what type of system you have until you set it on the thermostat which may possibly be the cause.

 

[Thebug]

That blue link in the boiler will just make it permanently call for heat, you need to take power from 3,4 and 5 and seperate wires from 1 and 2 to t1 and t2 dont link anything especially from mains voltage as the boiler is low voltage and will fry the pcb

 

[Mark h1967]

I know this is an old post. This is what I have done and it doesn't fire up the boiler when turning thermostat up. I can hear the heat link click when it moves past current temperature but obviously the call for heat isn't connected properly.
Ideal logic 35+.
Any help appreciated