NEST thermostats

Associate
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Interested in this as part of the npower deal at the moment....

Can you control it away from home, or only when on the WiFi network it's attached to?
 

Stu

Stu

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Considering alternatives, I've just bought a Salus iT500, with the accompanying iT300 thermostat for a second heating zone. I paid around £128 for the main package and £36 for the iT300. The iT500 can control two channels, so either one heating zone and hot water, or two heating zones with the iT300 positioned in the second zone. The main thermostat is wireless and runs on batteries, and can be mounted on the wall or free standing (and the stand is included, not a £29 accessory!).

I'm waiting on the electrician to install, but it looks to do most of what Nest and Hive, etc, can do with the exception of geofencing (which I'm not bothered about). However, one huge advantage is two zone heating for less than £170... this is one point where Nest and Hive really fall down on functionality, and Honeywell Evohome is significantly more expensive.

Can anyone explain the advantage of your thermostat knowing the temperature outside? I looked at the Worcester Wave (only out of curiosity, as I don't have a Worcester boiler), and the promo video says it "increases the temperature of your boiler when it gets cold and decreasing it when it warms up again"... I'd like to think all boilers generate more heat when it is cold and less when it is warm, though more specifically when it is warm or cold inside rather than outside. I guess the Wave can better manipulate the gas flow in the boiler, but I wonder about "generic" thermostats that are not designed for a specific make of boiler.
 
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Can anyone explain the advantage of your thermostat knowing the temperature outside? I looked at the Worcester Wave (only out of curiosity, as I don't have a Worcester boiler), and the promo video says it "increases the temperature of your boiler when it gets cold and decreasing it when it warms up again"... I'd like to think all boilers generate more heat when it is cold and less when it is warm, though more specifically when it is warm or cold inside rather than outside. I guess the Wave can better manipulate the gas flow in the boiler, but I wonder about "generic" thermostats that are not designed for a specific make of boiler.

If you want it to be 20c at 6pm and it is -1c outside, it will take longer to get the house to 20c then if it was 10c outside so the thermostat will kick the boiler in earlier.
 
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Can anyone explain the advantage of your thermostat knowing the temperature outside?
I can't explain, but I can quote the marketing material for the Worcester Wave.

Modern condensing boilers are most efficient when the water temperature in the system is low. Weather and load compensation reduce water temperatures and therefore increase efficiency, without compromising user comfort.

Unlike many other smart controls on the market, the Wave Smart Thermostat boasts load compensation; taking into account the current room temperature and only firing the boiler at the necessary level for more efficient use of fuel, to maintain peak efficiency levels.
 

Stu

Stu

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If you want it to be 20c at 6pm and it is -1c outside, it will take longer to get the house to 20c then if it was 10c outside so the thermostat will kick the boiler in earlier.

My old Honeywell wireless thermostat did this, but based on the temperature inside the house (i.e. the temperature directly measured by the thermostat)...

If you want it to be 20c at 6pm and it is 14c inside, it will take longer to get the house to 20c then if it was 17c inside so the thermostat will kick the boiler in earlier.
 
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Thanks, my Dad's a plumber by trade so made the recommendation (and wangled a good deal on it!) in line with what I'd read on here. Was worried the 29 would be a bit down on power, but it's doing an admirable job of heating and supplying hot water. Amazing the amount of stuff we ripped out too!

QYZtEoZ.png

Right, gotcha. So the Heatlink gets it's 240V from the boiler, just looking at the 29CDi instructions and I can see Ls and Ns (live and neutral supply) going out to an external control option. So that powers it.

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Then, coming back from the Nest there's a LR (live return) (3) that goes into LR on the boiler. Then I just do a small bridge from the L to (2) on the Heat Link.

Happy to run the stat wirelessly, the existing stat wiring goes to the kitchen where the boiler used to be. It's now in the loft, where I've only got CAT6 running. That said, it's <12v and CAT6 runs 48v POE... meh, wireless!

Hi, this has been really useful, thank you. I too have a 29CDi and have installed my nest thermostat this week.

However, I have run into a problem which you may or not have some advice on! When the thermostat senses that the temperature falls below the desired temp, the heat link receives the signal and a mild "click" can be heard coming from the heat link. The boiler then doesn't react at all. The same can be said when temp reaches the setting on the thermostat.

The boiler is set to "always on" and is just running based on the dial on the boiler panel.

if anyone can offer any advice or troubleshooting tips, it would be most appreciated. Failing that, I may be returning the nest back to the shop - I'm 100% sure it is wired correctly.

Thank you.
 
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Hi, this has been really useful, thank you. I too have a 29CDi and have installed my nest thermostat this week.

However, I have run into a problem which you may or not have some advice on! When the thermostat senses that the temperature falls below the desired temp, the heat link receives the signal and a mild "click" can be heard coming from the heat link. The boiler then doesn't react at all. The same can be said when temp reaches the setting on the thermostat.

The boiler is set to "always on" and is just running based on the dial on the boiler panel.

if anyone can offer any advice or troubleshooting tips, it would be most appreciated. Failing that, I may be returning the nest back to the shop - I'm 100% sure it is wired correctly.

Thank you.

Have you removed the faceplate/timer from the boiler?
 
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I'm in the process of researching boiler replacements for my 4 bed house and combi seems to be the recommendation, so I've requested about getting the Nest installed as part of the quote.

How are people finding these units now that we are into the time of year when the heating comes on..
 
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I'm looking for a cheap installation of nest. Where did you guys gets yours from? Npower can do it for £250 with install.

Also if I put it the wall how is the device powered? Can it pull power from the heat link?
 
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It's powered by a USB input via a wall socket.

On the subject of installations, has anyone installed their own? I bought mine in Black Friday for £149 and cba with the faff of booking someone to come in, which given the season will probably take ages. My boiler's new (Worcester Bosch) and I've got the manual which labels up the connections, I was just unsure what type of cables I would need for it, and whether different cables are required for power and data.

Oh and my existing boiler doesn't have any wires going in as the current thermostat is a Worcester Bosch so communicates directly, and a lot of the guides start with using the old wires.
 
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I wired mine up to my newish Worcester Bosch and it was fairly easy - although I reused the existing wire although I did check where it terminated in the boiler.

It only uses two cables and is wired up using standard flex (you can get this from b&q), if you have the boiler manual it should be fairly straightforward to do.
 
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Have you removed the faceplate/timer from the boiler?

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, this didn't work either. I think I have a faulty Heat Link. I'll be returning it to the store and trying a replacement I think.

Tried the Nest helpline and they weren't particularly helpful as they can only advise on connections between the heat link and thermostat.

On goes the old, manual thermostat :(
 
Soldato
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I wired mine up to my newish Worcester Bosch and it was fairly easy - although I reused the existing wire although I did check where it terminated in the boiler.

It only uses two cables and is wired up using standard flex (you can get this from b&q), if you have the boiler manual it should be fairly straightforward to do.

Good to know. And yeah, I already looked through the booklet manual and did seem pretty doable. Any chance of a link to the wires just so I know exactly what I'm looking for?
 
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