Best temps that work for me are 55oC bed, 215oC extruder. Roughly 50mm/s will be a good place to start. Don’t bother with a raft, use a skirt or brim.
I aim for 0.1mm between the bed and the nozzle.
When you’re setting the bed height, don’t do it at the edges, imagine a 150 or 200mm square in the centre of the bed and use the corners of that imaginary square.
I put about 8-10 sheets of 150x150mm foil in the middle of the bed, under the glass. That raises the height in the middle and also gives you a reference point to calibrate all 4 corners.
Print a square shape that’s roughly 150/200mm square and watch the first layer going down, you can then calibrate the bed by eye to get the last bit perfect. I’d recommend printing the oversized adjuster dials to help with this.
If you haven’t already (and assuming your printer didn’t come with one), you 100% need to print off a cable support for the heated bed as they work loose otherwise then snap off.
Also consider going inside the control box and making sure all of the terminals are tight, I’ve seen a few smoky PSUs from loose connections.. so worth checking. Obviously make sure the power is disconnected and don’t attempt if you’re not ok with that sort of thing.
Octoprint and a raspberry pi is quite a cool mod, worth checking out as it lets you print wirelessly and if you have a webcam you can view off your phone in the house or anywhere with a bit of faffage.
I aim for 0.1mm between the bed and the nozzle.
When you’re setting the bed height, don’t do it at the edges, imagine a 150 or 200mm square in the centre of the bed and use the corners of that imaginary square.
I put about 8-10 sheets of 150x150mm foil in the middle of the bed, under the glass. That raises the height in the middle and also gives you a reference point to calibrate all 4 corners.
Print a square shape that’s roughly 150/200mm square and watch the first layer going down, you can then calibrate the bed by eye to get the last bit perfect. I’d recommend printing the oversized adjuster dials to help with this.
If you haven’t already (and assuming your printer didn’t come with one), you 100% need to print off a cable support for the heated bed as they work loose otherwise then snap off.
Also consider going inside the control box and making sure all of the terminals are tight, I’ve seen a few smoky PSUs from loose connections.. so worth checking. Obviously make sure the power is disconnected and don’t attempt if you’re not ok with that sort of thing.
Octoprint and a raspberry pi is quite a cool mod, worth checking out as it lets you print wirelessly and if you have a webcam you can view off your phone in the house or anywhere with a bit of faffage.
my printer isn't really upto spec for the filament though so might be that - slightly below minimum temperature though I don't think that is actually the problem.
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