Road Cycling

BennyC · 9 Jun 2018 at 21:25

3 or 5s average is more useful than instant output.
Average W for the total ride.
A longer 10,20,30s avg can be useful if on longer steadier climbs.
NP is useful if you're trying to keep IF and subsequently TSS down or rather under control.
Lap screen should show 'Last' for AVG, NP, in my opinion.

Today I managed NP=AVG, outdoors too with 50/50% balance. I never normally see a larger variance than +/-1%.

BennyC · 9 Jun 2018 at 21:29

Off topic, think I'll have to pop some cable outer to stop my FD cable eating in to my BB shell. The guide is on correctly, mech is braze (not band) on so in the intended position. Shifting is fine, just a bit bizarre.

Berger · 10 Jun 2018 at 11:15

Joy, tyre sidewall rubbing frame on the P3 today when out the saddle or doing more than 275w. Obviously not enough clearance for the massive watts I put out

Measure them using calipers at home.

Pacenti rim, GP4000 II 23mm tyre, 27.25mm
Hplusson Archtype GP4000 23mm tyre, 26mm
Enve Classic 65 Tubular rim, Vittoria CX Evo III 23mm tyre, 23mm.

What the hell, I expected a bit of difference but measuring closer to 28 rather than 23.... maybe I need to buy some 21s...

Saytan · 10 Jun 2018 at 11:19

it's a pretty old school frame, wide rims weren't really a thing when it came about

Saytan · 10 Jun 2018 at 11:22

BennyC said:
Off topic, think I'll have to pop some cable outer to stop my FD cable eating in to my BB shell. The guide is on correctly, mech is braze (not band) on so in the intended position. Shifting is fine, just a bit bizarre.

a bit of lining tube as used for internally routed cables will do nicely, run it all the way through the cable guide and replace it when you replace the cable.

Berger · 10 Jun 2018 at 12:36

Saytan said:
it's a pretty old school frame, wide rims weren't really a thing when it came about

Might as well throw the tyre sizing system in the bin and just call them size Small Medium or Large width!

Maybe a different manufacturers would size up smaller?

UTmaniac · 10 Jun 2018 at 13:24

Conti tyres do seem to size big, even on 17mm internal rim width, 700x25 comes in at ~27mm and 700x28 come in at ~31mm (Grand Sport Race and GP4000 S2s as reference tyres).

Saytan · 10 Jun 2018 at 13:57

A gp4seasons comes up smaller than a Schwalbe durano in a 28 too....

Jonny ///M · 10 Jun 2018 at 15:44

GP4000 are just huge for there size, pretty much go up a size at least.

Tried some 28s on Fulcrum quattros, no chance. 25s just about fit on a Cube Agree.

I was meant to do a long ride today but I had to rescue my mate last night and got to bed at 2am so we both decided it would be silly to do 124 miles.

He was meant to leave Loch Lomond at 6ish to be home before dark but a storm meant he was leaving at 9pm+ and had no lights, found in him the middle of a really foggy section of NSL road. Lucky to not be dead I'd say. He'd also lost his phone so couldn't check where he was, what a night.

We drove to Ayr and headed into the 'Ayrshire alps', the people we were meeting had left sharp so had to chase to get them after the first climb. I put an effort in up the second and third climb which I'm happy with.

physichull · 10 Jun 2018 at 16:55

I've got a problem with my DT Swiss rear wheel. For a while now its been feeling a bit "wobbly" when going downhill fast or when pushing out of the saddle (to the point where its pretty damned scary when cornering fast!

What I've noticed is that there is a lot of lateral play with the rear wheel when secured tightly in the dropouts.

I took the freewheel off today (its one of those types where you can just pull it off once you have taken the cassette off. Gave it a bit of a greasing then put it back on. There is still a lot of play (2-3 mm easy if moved by hand but a small amount of force, such as that that youy might put through it when riding and it can easily touch the brake pads.

I've no idea what to do next and no idea how to adjust it. Do I need new wheels? Pretty gutted if so as these wheels have been ace.

BennyC · 10 Jun 2018 at 16:55

Saytan said:
a bit of lining tube as used for internally routed cables will do nicely, run it all the way through the cable guide and replace it when you replace the cable.

Roger that, tension should pin the outer in place on the underside of the BB shell. Will see if I can fashion a way to feed it through the existing guide by widening it slightly. Ta.

BennyC · 10 Jun 2018 at 16:56

physichull said:
I've got a problem with my DT Swiss rear wheel. For a while now its been feeling a bit "wobbly" when going downhill fast or when pushing out of the saddle. What I've noticed is that there is a lot of lateral play with the rear wheel when secured tightly in the dropouts.

I took the freewheel off today (its one of those types where you can just pull it off once you have taken the cassette off. Gave it a bit of a greasing then put it back on. There is still a lot of play (2-3 mm easy if moved by hand but a small amount of force, such as that that youy might put through it when riding and it can easily touch the brake pads.

I've no idea what to do next and no idea how to adjust it. Do I need new wheels? Pretty gutted if so as these wheels have been ace.

Bearings are shot. Had this when I was in Denia, on the second day. Depending on which hub it is it's more than likely you'll need a special tool to get at the DS bearing so I'd just take it to your nearest reputable wheelbuilder or LBS.

Feels like the hub is rocking on the axle/QR right?

physichull · 10 Jun 2018 at 17:01

BennyC said:
Feels like the hub is rocking on the axle/QR right?

It doesn't feel like it, it IS!

With the wheel secured tightly, you can move the rim from side to side (brake pad to brake pad type movement).

I've only just noticed what's wrong with it today but when I went down a fast steep hill the other day....I nearly had a heart attack as it felt like me wheel was about to just wobble off!

I'm a simpleton, bear with me, but why does knackered bearings give me some play in my wheel?

Its not a cup-and-cone type hub.

Ah...I think its basically this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AchbSMDjwyw

Bearings knackered and a lot of play.

Jonny ///M · 10 Jun 2018 at 18:56

BennyC said:
Roger that, tension should pin the outer in place on the underside of the BB shell. Will see if I can fashion a way to feed it through the existing guide by widening it slightly. Ta.

The PTFE straw type stuff is a lot thinner and will go through the guide without widening. Hard to come by, I bought stuff from RS components that was too thing

The wee straw from inside a V brake noodle will do the same job or source a BB cable guide that has an extended front mech guide.

Berger · 10 Jun 2018 at 19:22

Spec me a narrower 23mm tyre!?

NoNameNoNumber · 10 Jun 2018 at 21:25

For training with a power meter, do I want to be using normalised power during the ride or average? And if average, over what period?
I've read about the benefits to using NP, but is that only of use in terms of recovery time? or is it NP that is used to keep me in the correct zone...

BennyC · 10 Jun 2018 at 21:52

physichull said:
Bearings knackered and a lot of play.

You're welcome.

Jonny ///M said:
The PTFE straw type stuff is a lot thinner and will go through the guide without widening. Hard to come by, I bought stuff from RS components that was too thing

The wee straw from inside a V brake noodle will do the same job or source a BB cable guide that has an extended front mech guide.

Thanks again

NoNameNoNumber said:
For training with a power meter, do I want to be using normalised power during the ride or average? And if average, over what period?
I've read about the benefits to using NP, but is that only of use in terms of recovery time? or is it NP that is used to keep me in the correct zone...

Do some more reading :cool:

TrainerRoad or TrainingPeaks have plenty of resources. If you haven't tested your zones yet you should really do so shortly.

During the ride or interval your average power is what matters, presuming this is your target, but NP is ultimately what impacts your recovery and determines the IF score for the ride.

Two rides averaging 200w can have very different power profiles. Riding a flat 200w for 90 minutes is far less physiologically taxing than spending 90 minutes of a 1:1 ratio sprinting at 300w/100w recovery.

merlin · 10 Jun 2018 at 21:54

BennyC said:
Off topic, think I'll have to pop some cable outer to stop my FD cable eating in to my BB shell. The guide is on correctly, mech is braze (not band) on so in the intended position

Guide worn?

Jimbeam3678 · 10 Jun 2018 at 22:42

physichull said:
It doesn't feel like it, it IS! With the wheel secured tightly, you can move the rim from side to side (brake pad to brake pad type movement).

I've only just noticed what's wrong with it today but when I went down a fast steep hill the other day....I nearly had a heart attack as it felt like me wheel was about to just wobble off!

I'm a simpleton, bear with me, but why does knackered bearings give me some play in my wheel?

Its not a cup-and-cone type hub.

Ah...I think its basically this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AchbSMDjwyw

Bearings knackered and a lot of play.

Same thing happened to my DT Swiss wheels, if I remember correctly cost about £20 per wheel to have the bearing swapped. They have been great ever since through 2 winters.

MM-Seat · 11 Jun 2018 at 07:32

What's a good budget set of wheels for £150?

I've had my third spoke snapped this year on yesterday's ride and I just can't rely on the wheels the bike came with.