As you got good money for the bike all good, let someone else have the hassle! Yeah with that seatpost could get much of the way with aerobars, but also consider get some solid training in and do some TT's like that. When you get to the point of chasing some real targets and times the 'what if' will sneak back in and you'll be looking at TT bikes again! Think the Cervelo P2 is still quite a standard for people starting out and they've always come with many groupset options so less likely to have a similar issue... Also lots of people buy (& sell) them as framesets.I sold the bike in the end, I got a good offer and made a decent amount on the bike so there is no love lost.. It was an old 2014 campag athrna 11 that had one of their funky square axel from what I found when I researched and 25mm in width.
I'm now looking at maybe just having my roadie and a redshift seatpost: https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Re...InArUGl_SORhdEqi9909L8XhTSLzaDBBoCG14QAvD_BwE
With some clip on tri bars, saves me a lot of cash and should get me 75-80% of a tri bike without the headache![]()
All these easy options without changing what you have @Martynt74 but another - never discount, certainly when troubleshooting issues, just loosening the stem and rotating your bars back towards you. Quick & simple to reduce reach! No bartape or even taking things off... At least until you find a better position/measurement then figure out how to get it so it 'looks good' rather than something you ride hidden in your garage at home hoping nobody seesFlip stem to point upwards to reduce its effective reach by ~15cm if +/- 6 degrees
Put all fork spacers under stem to reduce effective reach, roughly 30mm spacers is ~10mm reach

Be careful Andy! At the end of the day a bike is not worth getting assaulted over, we insure them for a reason and might be worth checking armed hijacking is covered...!There's been a spate of bike jackings in our area, on roads I usually ride on... I almost didn't go out this morning, but I guess you can't live in fear! Both bikes have Moto Tags, but I expect they're used to looking for those these days. I have just registered them both on The National Cycle Database.
Yup, thankfully a small number of them around here but always had run-ins with idiots. Tend to see more of them on a weekend than weekday when group riding!Went out for the first time with a local club on Sunday. Was good fun. The thing that struct me most was how **** a lot of drivers were at overtaking. Goes to show that as soon as you are an actual impediment to drivers or inconvenience them for more than 30s, a large number of people drive like complete *****. So many overtakes on blind corners and not even the type you get as a solo rider where they are over quite quickly. Mind boggling really.
Here it seems the 'poor' overtakes and lazy driver type things (like not giving way & pointless overtakes) seem to have got worse the last few years. Vehicles have got bigger and drivers seem more complacent or distracted than ever before.
Yeah having gloomy mornings the last couple of weeks didn't notice a huge amount of difference so far this week... But the towards-dark commute home was quite a shock!Almost time to switch over to the winter bike full time now. Just scraping in a few more rides on the summer bike. Yesterday was a nice day. This week looks a bit ropey.
Darker evenings are not fun though.
when the weather is OK.

Fairly normal for a pedal once it wears. Should be minor play ie less than 1mm, much more than that you might have a duff/worn bearing if they where new get them replaced. But if not/too old for that then just ride them. Some of them you can tighten up - there's a plastic collar around the axle which holds it into the body. As the outside of the pedal is a 'needle bearing' which is like an axle into a bushing there's several mm of play/movement there without issue. The collar end is the main 'normal' cartridge type bearing (with balls in it). But they're generally fixed on the axle, almost impossible to remove and then also almost impossible to get them to replace even if you could get the thing off the axle. As there's replacement axles for the expensive pedals (like Blade) you just change the whole unit, but they're so expensive not worth it on a cheaper pedal. I like the Keo Blade & Max pedals, but the price of them these days I'm just riding Classic everywhere. There's just no gain to riding the more expensive ones...i can feel some side to side rocking if i hold the thead and wiggle the pedal forwards and backwards. Anyone else have had issues with look pedals?