12v charger socket seems to be dead

Soldato
OP
Joined
17 Aug 2009
Posts
17,790
Location
Finchley, London

Q I was about to ask that actually, after doing some googling. According to this:

"Q Where is the fuse for the front 12v socket in a peugeot 307 hdi?"
A Fuse #7, down right."


Where is down right though? I'm so useless with cars, might have to pop down to the place that fixed my other problem last week with the diagnostics check and hope he can do it for me. :p If it isn't the fuse, how much is it to replace?
My cheapo 99p phone charger I bought from the bay a year ago broke, the metal prong at the tip came out and I'm wondering if it's fallen into the little hole in the side of the cylinder and stopped it working?
 
Soldato
Joined
22 Aug 2010
Posts
3,882
Location
On the Wagon-East Angular
Q I was about to ask that actually, after doing some googling. According to this:

"Q Where is the fuse for the front 12v socket in a peugeot 307 hdi?"
A Fuse #7, down right."


Where is down right though? I'm so useless with cars, might have to pop down to the place that fixed my other problem last week with the diagnostics check and hope he can do it for me. :p If it isn't the fuse, how much is it to replace?
My cheapo 99p phone charger I bought from the bay a year ago broke, the metal prong at the tip came out and I'm wondering if it's fallen into the little hole in the side of the cylinder and stopped it working?
That little bit of metal has shorted out the socket - make sure you find it (or make absolutely sure it's not still in there) or the replacement fuse will also blow!
Replacement fuses can be got in Halfrauds for a few quid for a variety pack.

edit - the fuses are usually numbered inside the fusebox - find no 7, remove and replace :)
 
Associate
Joined
19 Nov 2008
Posts
668
Might have to buy one of those. Would I stick it over each fuse?

The Fuse has 2 pins, simply make contact with them both ( One with the + Probe and one with the - Probe) and if the Multi meter doesn't buzz or light up, there is no continuity and as such, the fuse has blown.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
17 Aug 2009
Posts
17,790
Location
Finchley, London
That little bit of metal has shorted out the socket - make sure you find it (or make absolutely sure it's not still in there) or the replacement fuse will also blow!
Replacement fuses can be got in Halfrauds for a few quid for a variety pack.

edit - the fuses are usually numbered inside the fusebox - find no 7, remove and replace :)

Lol@Halfrauds :D

So, if the socket has shorted does that mean it's just blown the fuse or killed the socket for good?



The Fuse has 2 pins, simply make contact with them both ( One with the + Probe and one with the - Probe) and if the Multi meter doesn't buzz or light up, there is no continuity and as such, the fuse has blown.


Ok thanks, will get one.
 
Associate
Joined
4 Oct 2007
Posts
473
Location
Belfast
Was a fuse on mine was blown by a 5p left by the previous owner. Fuse cost more than 5p :(

As said, make sure you get the metal out to stop it happening again, hopefully that'll be you sorted.
 
Associate
Joined
30 Sep 2011
Posts
1,717
Location
Over the hills and.......
Q I was about to ask that actually, after doing some googling. According to this:

"Q Where is the fuse for the front 12v socket in a peugeot 307 hdi?"
A Fuse #7, down right."


Where is down right though? I'm so useless with cars, might have to pop down to the place that fixed my other problem last week with the diagnostics check and hope he can do it for me. :p If it isn't the fuse, how much is it to replace?
My cheapo 99p phone charger I bought from the bay a year ago broke, the metal prong at the tip came out and I'm wondering if it's fallen into the little hole in the side of the cylinder and stopped it working?

look on the fuse box lid and the fuse panel. there should be a diagram on the lid what fuse does what and what numbers it is in the panel. on the panel the numbers are on the plastic next to the fuse. just becarefull and check that the top row of fuses are the same amperage as the diagram as some are back to front, upside down etc
 
Associate
Joined
26 Jul 2010
Posts
1,714
Location
Wiltshire
The Fuse has 2 pins, simply make contact with them both ( One with the + Probe and one with the - Probe) and if the Multi meter doesn't buzz or light up, there is no continuity and as such, the fuse has blown.

Don't do that with the ignition switched on though :eek: ;) :).

It's far better to have the ignition and do a "live test" with the multimeter set to volts, put the negative probe on a ground & then probe both sides of the fuse with the positive probe. You should get near battery voltage (within 0.2v) on both sides of the fuse.

The advantage of doing this is that you prove the fuse is o.k. with current passing through it, something a simple continuity test would not necessarily show. You also get to see
any potential voltage drop through the fusebox which will reveal the quality of your connections at this stage in the circuit.
 
Last edited:
Soldato
OP
Joined
17 Aug 2009
Posts
17,790
Location
Finchley, London
Just had the guy at my local garage check all my fuses with a meter tool. All of them are ok. There's no fuses he could find down right under the steering wheel, just a bunch of fuses in a compartment in the glove box and also in a compartment under the bonnet. He put the meter on the connector in my photo and said it must be a fuse because there's earth but no live coming through. So, I'm at a loss. If there's no live coming through the 3 pin connector, then presumably it's not the 12v socket barrel that's burned out. :confused:


MIzTp.jpg

edit: just spoke to halfords autocentre and he reckons there's 3 fuse boxes, one down by the bonnet release area below the glove box. He also said it could be a break in the positive wire and if so, it would have to be traced along the whole length of cable.

just spoke to robins and day peugeot dealers and have been told it's unlikely to be a cable break, and that the guy probably only checked one side of the fuses which would show it as being ok, but both sides need to be checked. Lucky they didn't charge me anything. He said it's the large yellow 20amp fuse in the glove box I need. I'm gonna go get one from halfords and try it.
 
Last edited:
Soldato
OP
Joined
17 Aug 2009
Posts
17,790
Location
Finchley, London
Fixed! I took the glove box fuse cover off and saw the yellow fuse right at the end with '20' on it. I couldn't get it out though, even with tweezers. Popped to Halfords to buy a fuse and I asked a guy there (who fits stereos) if he could take a look and remove the fuse and check I'm buying the right replacement. He got the fuse out straight away with needle nose pliers and told me I already have a spare, which is amongst a bunch of spares plus a fuse puller inserted in the compartment cover. I didn't realise they were spares (thought they were in use when the cover goes back on) or that I even had a fuse puller :o

So he put the spare in and the socket worked. I showed him where the metal cap of the phone charger was (visibly sitting in in the hole below the socket) so he got a long magnet puller, got it out and screwed it tight back into the charger and that's working again too. I gave him some money and was extremely grateful.

The End. :)
 
Associate
Joined
19 Nov 2008
Posts
668
Don't do that with the ignition switched on though :eek: ;) :).

It's far better to have the ignition and do a "live test" with the multimeter set to volts, put the negative probe on a ground & then probe both sides of the fuse with the positive probe. You should get near battery voltage (within 0.2v) on both sides of the fuse.

The advantage of doing this is that you prove the fuse is o.k. with current passing through it, something a simple continuity test would not necessarily show. You also get to see
any potential voltage drop through the fusebox which will reveal the quality of your connections at this stage in the circuit.

I though he would have had the common sense to remove the fuse, as otherwise you can't carry out this test (in most cases) ?

How would a continuity test "Not Show" current being able to flow freely through a conductive material ..... :confused:
 
Associate
Joined
19 Aug 2009
Posts
973
Location
Cornwall
Don't do that with the ignition switched on though :eek: ;) :).

It's far better to have the ignition and do a "live test" with the multimeter set to volts, put the negative probe on a ground & then probe both sides of the fuse with the positive probe. You should get near battery voltage (within 0.2v) on both sides of the fuse.

The advantage of doing this is that you prove the fuse is o.k. with current passing through it, something a simple continuity test would not necessarily show. You also get to see
any potential voltage drop through the fusebox which will reveal the quality of your connections at this stage in the circuit.


It wouldn't blow or spark anyway as it's the same potential. Its much easier and quicker to pull the fuse out and check continuity.

If the fuse was intact then you would start this to determine if there was a high resistance joint etc along the circuit.
 
Associate
Joined
26 Jul 2010
Posts
1,714
Location
Wiltshire
How would a continuity test "Not Show" current being able to flow freely through a conductive material ..... :confused:

It does, but it would only tell you the resistance or continuity of whatever part of the circuit your checking. Doing a voltage loss test tells you the actual effect that high resistance is having within the actual circuit without having to do separate calculations on paper.
 
Last edited:
Associate
Joined
26 Jul 2010
Posts
1,714
Location
Wiltshire
It wouldn't blow or spark anyway as it's the same potential. Its much easier and quicker to pull the fuse out and check continuity.

If the fuse was intact then you would start this to determine if there was a high resistance joint etc along the circuit.


My post was merely a 'just in case' because it wasn't pointed out as far as I could see. If you stick a continuity tested on an installed blown fuse it will probably fry the tester.


The methods I describe are far better than static resistance tests, they actually tell you straight away exactly what is going on in the part of the circuit being tested. For starters you don't even need to remove the fuse.
 
Associate
Joined
22 Feb 2016
Posts
1
Worked for me too, and the radio is now working!

Thank you so much forposting this, I had the exact same problem on the same model, just went with a torch and replaced the 20 amp yellow fuse, now my charger socket and the radio work! Genius. :)

Fixed! I took the glove box fuse cover off and saw the yellow fuse right at the end with '20' on it. I couldn't get it out though, even with tweezers. Popped to Halfords to buy a fuse and I asked a guy there (who fits stereos) if he could take a look and remove the fuse and check I'm buying the right replacement. He got the fuse out straight away with needle nose pliers and told me I already have a spare, which is amongst a bunch of spares plus a fuse puller inserted in the compartment cover. I didn't realise they were spares (thought they were in use when the cover goes back on) or that I even had a fuse puller :o

So he put the spare in and the socket worked. I showed him where the metal cap of the phone charger was (visibly sitting in in the hole below the socket) so he got a long magnet puller, got it out and screwed it tight back into the charger and that's working again too. I gave him some money and was extremely grateful.

The End. :)
 
Back
Top Bottom