Man Maths Help Required - BMW E93 335i

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I need some help with my man maths. I would really like a BMW E93 (3-series convertible) with an Auto gearbox, DCT would be ideal. Choice is between 330i and 335i.

I've seen a 335i (Auto not DCT) which I like. However the running costs are alarming compared to my existing E46 330Ci.

* Fuel costs are of negligable difference for my usage compared to the E46.
* From what I've read, a BMW warranty on the N54 engine is HIGHLY advisable. On a car with > 60k miles (within budget), that's likely to cost £80pcm. Current E46 has no warranty so £0pcm.
* In addition, all E93 335is with an Auto box (pre DCT) fall into tax band K which is £470pa. Current E46 costs £270pa.

So I'm down almost £100pcm before I've even though about finance for the car.

Figures for the E93 330 are slightly better in terms of tax but the warranty is still advisable due to issues with injectors, coil packs, HPFP, valve carbonisation, etc.

Do I pay up, risk going without a warranty or choose a different car? Comments and suggestions welcome, need to arrange a viewing on the car.
 
Man of Honour
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100 quid a month isn't a big deal surely, if it is then a 15 grand 300bhp twin turbo cab might be the wrong car for you.

Btw the warranty is closer to 45 quid a month if the car is under 60k miles.
 
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[TW]Fox;25117588 said:
100 quid a month isn't a big deal surely, if it is then a 15 grand 300bhp twin turbo cab might be the wrong car for you.

Btw the warranty is closer to 45 quid a month if the car is under 60k miles.

Not on it's own. It is once you factor in finance, fuel, tyres and general servicing. Edited to add, "and the TVR and Alfa that I also run"!

General consensus was that warranty was circa £45pcm if < 60k miles and as long as you are paying monthly, it doesn't go up once you exceed 60k miles. BMW Warranty bloke this morning advised that this is highly likely to change in the near future!
 
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Man of Honour
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If you are having to borrow a massive pile of cash too I guess it does add up but to be honest if this car is financed and the extra hundred quid is concerning then is the car comfortably affordable? Perhaps keep the 330 you have until it is, you will enjoy the new car more if it's ownership costs are of no concern.
 
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My head says you're right. I could maybe argue for the E93 330 with lower tax and risk going without warranty. Finance + E46 running costs would be OK. Finance + E46 running costs + warranty + increased tax is pushing it.

My heart would like to add that it's a twin-turbo straight six with a cool folding roof and a TV and that I should stop being a pussy and just pay for it.

E46 is a bit long in the tooth and will require new brakes, etc if I keep it. I should really sell the TVR but after 14 years, it's like selling your favourite pet. :(

Ta for the comments!
 
Soldato
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... and a door lock solenoid and spark plugs and fuel filter and handsfree and I'd prefer an Auto due to the commute and I'd like a convertible...

door lock - easy
spark plugs - easy
fuel filter - easy

handsfree - parrot easy.

Convertible - easy, hacksaw it.
 
Soldato
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... and a door lock solenoid and spark plugs and fuel filter and handsfree and I'd prefer an Auto due to the commute and I'd like a convertible...

Door locking solenoid can't be that expensive, I've changed one myself on an older car for less than £30!

Spark plugs and fuel filter are just serviceable items.

Wanting a new car with different features (Auto, Convertible etc...) is fine but the other bits you've listed are either very cheap to fix or standard servicing bits that any car may require.
 
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Drop into your local fire station and offer your car up for roof removing practise, a convertable in one easy step. Also if you ask nicely they might let you play with the hydraulic cutters.
 
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:) to the above.

None of the issues with the E46 are that expensive but they total to around £750 (I've missed a couple) and it doesn't seem to make much sense on a car that you are considering changing. As mentioned, they won't fix the desire for an auto/cabrio.

Oh FWIW, the door lock is a pain to change, the gearbox needs to be removed to fix issues with the wobbly selector and selector pinsm the offside front arch is rusty as hell... Good money after bad?
 
Soldato
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Unless you can get a sub 60k mile car, i'd forget the warranty at £80pm. The only things that really scare me with the car are the turbo's going wrong, everything else is manageable. Injectors tend to go in ones and twos (mine is nearly 60k miles and has only just thrown its first injector), the HPFP died on mine at about 50k miles and it had turbo wastegate actuators changed (which weren't critical, they just rattled when you started up for as long as i can remember). HPFP is around £280 for the part + a couple of hours labour. An injector and shroud is around £125 and is a DIY job if you have the software, otherwise it's a 1hour-1.5hour job in a workshop.

The turbos however are bum clenchingly expensive at around £1300 EACH plus around 6-7 hours labour IIC - although it is really quite rare for it to happen.
 
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Soldato
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Unless you can get a sub 60k mile car, i'd forget the warranty at £80pm. The only things that really scare me with the car are the turbo's going wrong, everything else is manageable. Injectors tend to go in ones and twos (mine is nearly 60k miles and has only just thrown its first injector), the HPFP died on mine at about 50k miles and it had turbo wastegate actuators changed (which weren't critical, they just rattled when you started up for as long as i can remember). HPFP is around £280 for the part + a couple of hours labour. An injector and shroud is around £125 and is a DIY job if you have the software, otherwise it's a 1hour-1.5hour job in a workshop.

The turbos however are bum clenchingly expensive at around £1300 EACH plus around 6-7 hours labour IIC - although it is really quite rare for it to happen.

They all seem like not unreasonable bills, especially if you're able to DIY them. I guess the only other liability is the automatic gearbox or roof mechanism?
 
Soldato
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You'll hate me for it, but if you are after a drop-top fun fast BMW, you won't go far wrong with a 1-series 135i. They should be far cheaper than the 335i to purchase, and have insane brakes too.

335i should only be considered over a 135i if you are requiring the rear seats for adults. (plus the 135i comes with DCT too).
 
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You'll hate me for it, but if you are after a drop-top fun fast BMW, you won't go far wrong with a 1-series 135i. They should be far cheaper than the 335i to purchase, and have insane brakes too.

Far cheaper? It's not really 'far cheaper' IMHO.

335i should only be considered over a 135i if you are requiring the rear seats for adults. (plus the 135i comes with DCT too).

There are lots of reasons to consider a 335i over a 135i, it's more refined, it has a metal folding roof, it has a better interior, it feels like a better quality car. The 135i is a brilliant thing - very, very good - but it's simply wrong to say there is no reason to buy a 335i over a 135i unless you need the rear seats.

Plus the relationship between DCT and car is the same for the 135i as it is for the 335i - it's available on both from the 2009 model year onwards where it replaced the automatic gearbox. Cars older than this are 6 speed torque convertor autos, not DCT.
 
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Test drove one today. E93 335i auto. It was nice... but...

Drove home in my manual E46 330 and there's definitely something to having a manual box. Didn't seem much slower either, but that may be just differences in refinement.

Both turbos changed 15k miles ago and the seller alleges that newer style turbos were fitted which solve the recurring issues. Good to hear the other problems are manageable.

Paddles were counter intuitive but apparently that can be fixed/hacked.

Still not decided but thanks to all for the responses.

Ian.
 
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The E93 with the 6 speed auto does dull a lot of the performance the 335i offers - it's a heavy car, that roof mechanism carries quite a weight penalty.
 
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