Repair or new amp time :(

Soldato
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My trusty Yamaha 2700 has a power on fault, it doesn't cold power - pulling the power lead out and back in a few secs later seems to work but it started off not powering on once a week and now its doing it pretty much every time :(

I think its pretty likely to be a capacitor thats gone but i don't have a decent soldering iron or likely the skill to do it - can prolly diag it ok tho...

Has anyone had an amp repaired via somewhere like richer sounds - they charge £40 and from what it says would likely be the all in cost?

Everything runs through the amp so don't really want it to be away for long, may try locally but places like Richersounds will put repair cost to another amp if it cant be fixed etc...

Moving onto that - a quick look and i'm looking at a Yamaha 2030 as like for like, 1030 also probably as good/better than mine given its age - 8 hdmi vs 3 sounds like a good reason to replace but its a grand+ i could do without spending.

Any other amps to look at, having had a load of HD Onkyo and Sony amps on test a few years back i would rule them out unless either have had huge improvements in build quality and sound? (and heat output in Onkyo's case)

Anyone tried the new Arcam or NAD in similar price range to 2030?
 
Man of Honour
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From the RS web site
COSTS & CHARGES (Initial charge for repairs to electronic equipment):

Home Cinema Receiver £40

A quote to complete your repair will then be prepared and you will be contacted to approve this.


This initial charge is non-refundable, and covers any packaging and transportation costs (to and from our service location) and also covers our engineers time spent looking at and assessing your repair. If we feel we can complete the repair by using only a small number of general components we will complete the repair within the prices shown above.

If however we have to order specialist parts to complete the repair to your unit, we will prepare an estimate for you to approve. Generally this is done by telephone but in any instance we are unable to contact you or leave you a message we may write to you advising you of the estimate to complete your repair. (Please remember that when replacing parts, it is possible that a unit may require multiple parts, this may not become apparent until the first parts have been fitted and your unit tested, meaning we may need to revise your initial estimate for your approval).

The repair facility is in Manchester. It says so, right on the same page. You'll be dropping your amp off at the local store, but it's going on a journey from Norwich to Manchester and back.

Next, when they say "by using only a small number of general components we will complete the repair within the prices shown" I would expect them to be talking about penny components such as fuses. It'll be stuff that requires no tools and no further disassembly than whipping the lid off. IOW, it would cost more in bench time to close it up, then get your approval, then open it up again than the part is worth. If there's any soldering required then that means partially stripping the product. At £40 the maths doesn't add up to cover that level of work. Even if RS have stonking deals with a courier, I can't see them shipping £500+ worth of amp for much less than £12+VAT each way insured. There's £30 out of the £40 straight away.
 
Soldato
OP
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26 Oct 2002
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Norwich
Yeah i did wonder about that, the amp is currently worth nothing but was 12/1400 new so would need plenty of insurance - however even i can send something that heavy with more than enough insurance for around a tenner via a trade account!

I do remember back in the day they used to in shop service and they were excellent, they also still offer very competitive extra warranties etc so part of me thinks it could be genuinely cheap to repair via them but i know more of the older style richer sounds than the new one as it is now!

Ohh well, its totally dead now so need to figure it out after xmas as sound via the tv is shocking :(
 
Soldato
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So my amp is dead now, totally :(

I have been looking at the SR7007 and i dont particularly like the look of it but it reviews well, seems the current version rights all issues with the SR7007 so i am tempted but think i am going to stick with a Yamaha.
 
Associate
Joined
4 Aug 2008
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1,988
Try to tap your amp on the side as shown in the arrow.

If your amp shows any sign of life, display blinks etc. even for a sec, then it is possibly just a cold solder, maybe somewhere in the standby supply.



ij32.jpg
 
Soldato
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Thats interesting as when it first happened i could have sworn it wasnt the act of unplugging / plugging back in that fixed it but wiggling the lead....

Do you have experience of the amp and this fault - i have heard there is a cap on the board at the front that often goes, mine looks sound but havent got a meter to test it??
 
Associate
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Posts
301
The fault is very likely to be failure of C4 which is a 22nF 630V capacitor.

In the picture posted above I think you can just about see it. See the circuit board the arrow is pointing to, the one with the mains input socket? The black rectangular thing is the standby relay. Under that can you see the orange part. That is C4 I believe. It should be marked 223 630.

If you Google image search Yamaha 22NF 630V the first image (on my PC) from sparedparts.com is the type you want.

The same standby circuit is used on several Yamaha items and I've replaced many.

Good luck.
 
Soldato
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That is very helpful - thank you very much!

I may just get that part and have a mate solder it, no harm trying for a few quid - thats a different part to what i found thought to be the fault but looking around as you said and a fair few success stories so again many thanks :)
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
26 Oct 2002
Posts
4,168
Location
Norwich
The fault is very likely to be failure of C4 which is a 22nF 630V capacitor.

In the picture posted above I think you can just about see it. See the circuit board the arrow is pointing to, the one with the mains input socket? The black rectangular thing is the standby relay. Under that can you see the orange part. That is C4 I believe. It should be marked 223 630.

If you Google image search Yamaha 22NF 630V the first image (on my PC) from sparedparts.com is the type you want.

The same standby circuit is used on several Yamaha items and I've replaced many.

Good luck.

I had that cap replaced at work, all working again :D:D:D:D

Many thanks for pointing this out, for whatever reason i hadnt come across it while googling fixes so you have saved me a lot of money and i have decent sound again after a couple of weeks of nasty tv speakers!!!!
 
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