I've only done V-twins in recent years (two SV650s and my RSV1000). If the shims are located under the buckets (quite a common arrangement) the cams will have to come out if shims need changing.
It's not a bad job if you approach it methodically, and make sure you write down all measurements and have somewhere to safely store any buckets and shims you need to take out. Obviously you will need to re-time the cams afterwards, a job where double and triple checking is very worthwhile.
Yep done a few my first was on a z500 many years back I had to replace a primary chain which is located bang in the middle of the engine, when I removed the head I flipped the head over lol you can guess the rest
Take your time no big deal just check and double check.
Yup, gimme good old fashioned tappets any day, just take your time, be methodical, invest in a magic marker & take notes, make damn sure your work area is clean & tidy because the last thing you want is to slip on a dropped bolt/tool/why.
And once your done, as Dogbreath pointed out, double check then check again your timing.
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