Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

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planning on booking cadwell on the 1st of october if you fancy it? only £99


I shall give it some thought, do want to drive this track but at 3hr travelling time each way that's a 4am start and not getting home until 10pm. So its a lot of travelling, track does look good though even if it is quite narrow. Great price just the travelling distance/time putting me off.

What happened to testing at your local tracks, like Donnington or Oulton?


Now got the car back, just had to make it all shiny this weekend:-


m4.jpg~original


m5.jpg~original


m1.jpg~original


m2.jpg~original



Now its rained. :o
 
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Looks like you've got slicks on Gibbo :p

Michelin cups for, great on track no better semi slick, but poor on road as you can't get heat into them.

Got spare wheels with slicks now all being well for track use.

So need a decent road tyre, PSS my number one choice but can't get so it's gonna be down to either F1AS2 or Advan V105.
 
Soldato
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Just fitted some Vibra-Technics engine mounts to mine, what a difference! No more slop from the engine rocking back and forth and no noticeable nvh at all :)

What are your thoughts on fitting Porsche 996 callipers to the front and rear as a more cost effective solution to a bbk?
I just bought a set for £650 and quite a few people have done this mod in the states and over here :)

Neil.
 
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Hi there

One of the guys over on cutters has managed a 1:17.50 in his M3 project car:-



As can be seen on the video he can clearly drive very well and is pushing the car hard. What some might find hard to believe is he is on road tyres as well posting such a quick time and it is his road legal car too. :)

He drove Millennium Classics at Donington Park. Qualified 1st in class and 2nd overall, which he converted into a 1st in class win and 2nd overall.

Good to know how fast these cars can go when the driver has the skill to pedal them, I've got some improving to do on my 1:22 and considering I've got better tyres too (Michelin cup) I need to pull my finger out. His car is same power as same mods though he is a bit lighter as he has removed A/C and also running a manual gearbox, he is approx. 1190kg with no fuel or driver. Whereas mine is around 1300kg with 1/4 tank fuel with A/C and SMG. :)
 
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Hi there


Just had every single bush in the rear of the car changed out, about 8-10 bushes in total. Turns out rear trailing arms had polybush units in place with limiter kit, so left those in place. Rest were to changed to BMW OEM (Lemforder) and Eibach adjust rear camber arms installed too. :)

New track alignment:-

allignment-2.jpg~original




On the road I am running -2.50 (-2:30) with about +0.05 toe in either side to give the car very nice road manners. Changing between track and road settings is a 1 minute job either side as I have marked up on my top mounts to make road/track changes quick and easy. :)

Pic to follow and report on how car drives on road with all new OEM bushes in and new aluminium camber arms installed.
 
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Here is what I've done for easy camber adjustment:-

4707b67b1ca96ede5b5a67527152d4ed.jpg


Current setting is road setting, go to track I just loosen the four screws and move to next white line for to achieve the track settings as per the allignment image above.

So how does it drive on the road, well in road setting car tramlines less, so nicer road handling characteristics and tyre wear will be even.

How has bush refresh and new lower arms changed things, an improvement for sure, car has more grip and sliding and drifting is more controllable. An improvement for sure, boot floor repair and reinforcement happens next week. Ready for slicks and lots of track work then. :)
 
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I bet you're buzzing to get back on the track with her!

Mine is in for an Insp2, poly RTABs, 4 wheel alignment and Braided lines mid september so looking forward to driving it after all that! With a bit of luck maybe get down for the Rolling Road again too.
 
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Dropped the car off at Mprove today for Matt to carry out boot floor repair, welding in of plates and resin injection plus new OEM BMW subframe bushes. Picking up next week and no more worries of boot floor cracking. :)


mprove.jpg~original
 
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Picked up the car from Matt at Mprove today after it had it week long boot repair.

Here are some photos Matt took whilst performing the repair, re-inforcement plates and resin injection.


First of all how the car looks with the entire rear removed from the car:-


before.jpg~original



THE CRACKS!


cracks2.jpg~original


cracks.jpg~original



The first image is the rear passenger side bush and it is common that they crack along where the body angles and as can be seen my car has a small crack there. It is easy to see this without removing the entire rear subframe and was the reason for this job being done.

The second picture is far more worrying that is the front drivers side mounting and it is severely cracked, that was a ticking time bomb as the spotweld had clearly exploded and cracked in all directions and also where the bolts goes into the body work was cracking around it too.

Needless to say this repair was needed, they have seen far worse to the point where boot floors are more or less hanging out the car as this is a design floor in the E46 chassis, yes all E46 suffer from this, but more so M3's due to more stress being put on the chassis. You boys with superchargers and turbo's on your E46 are even more prone to this damage. Get the floor re-inforced!

The cracks are repaired by drilling them at the ends to prevent them going further and then welding them back up. They are then plated with re-inforced plates and bonded into place which help to spread the stress more evenly and of course are re-inforced to prevent it from happening again.


Pictures of the plates and install:-


platekit.jpg~original


platesbonding.jpg~original


pl3.jpg~original


pl4.jpg~original


pl1-1.jpg~original


pl2.jpg~original






Matt then painted the whole underside of the car in BMW OEM Mushroom paint, to remain factory look and of course the underseal protection it gives to prevent rush etc.


after.jpg~original








Then all new subframe bushes, bolts and mounts are installed, I decided to stick with BMW OEM as I enjoy driving the car on the road so I don't want it to have loads of NVH or harshness. Pictures of bushes and subfram back on.


b1.jpg~original


b4.jpg~original


b2.jpg~original


b3.jpg~original






A nice picture of the whole rear end showing of the Eibach rear camber arms. ;)

undersiderear.jpg~original





Then final procedure is to inject the rear end just as BMW would do with Resin to further strengthen the chassis, this stuff literally has no weight but is unbelievable strong.


resin1.jpg~original


resin2.jpg~original









They re-installed and set the GEO to the same measurements they took before they dismantled everything. Only driven the car home on motorway so can't comment too much but the car seems quieter from the rear-end which is no doubt from the fresh bushes as the old ones were not looking so great, but after 100,000 miles you can't expect so.

I now have peace of mind, I can hoon it out of junctions, even use launch control and drive the car as hard as I dare too without worry of the boot falling out. Plus the car is completely re-bushed now front to rear including engine and transmission mounts.

Driving my car compared to my old CSL and mine is just in a different league and compared to other M3's I've driven mine is just so tight and a lot lot quicker, so I've done something right. :)


Whats left:-
Rear harness / cage
CSL roof, maybe......

That's it, I don't want to go supercharged or cams, the car drives so nice and has so much power/torque everywhere, I'd not want to spoil that drivability or the fact that the power to weight is pretty much perfect, any more and I'd spend more time controlling wheel spin than going forwards on the road. Could certainly take more power on track though with slicks for sure. :)
 
Soldato
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Horrible horrible job to do on the floor. Had to weld my mates 328 back up as it literally tore the n/s/r mount out. Had to cut holes in the boot to gain access to the insert to weld it back in as well. Not a job im going to do again in a hurry. Looks really neat and tidy job gibbo. Did he just seal the extra plates on? No welding?
 
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Horrible horrible job to do on the floor. Had to weld my mates 328 back up as it literally tore the n/s/r mount out. Had to cut holes in the boot to gain access to the insert to weld it back in as well. Not a job im going to do again in a hurry. Looks really neat and tidy job gibbo. Did he just seal the extra plates on? No welding?

Yep they are bonded on with same stuff they bond car body panels together with.
 
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Nice, wish I could have got away with that. Horrible horrible horrible job!

He drills and welds any cracks in place, then rubs down and cleans up.
But when he puts reinforcement plates back in he believes bonding them in place.

Which is better I've no idea all I am glad about is the small cracks it had have being caught in time and the floor is re-inforced and has the resin injection, so nice and strong now. :)
 
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Bonding is much better as you are spreading the forces over much larger areas. Plus it's less likely to rust. Welding creates heat affected areas of the metal on both sides which will promote corrosion.
 
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