Testing the NVIDIA GTX 970 with IC DIAMOND

GoogalyMoogaly · 16 Nov 2014 at 15:33

I've not used IC-Diamond on a GPU but I have used it on a number of CPUs and I have to agree with those that have noticed staining. Again mostly on the heatsink rather than CPU.
I can't say I've noticed any scratches though, but I wasn't looking for any either.

My IC-Diamond hasn't gone solid but it is a very thick paste that can be difficult to apply.

mrwolf · 16 Nov 2014 at 16:13

Frostdragon; did you put a big splodge of IC paste in the centre and little dots all around? It looks like it from the pic. I think with IC diamond you need to put a line going across the centre rather than a pea shaped amount. As 555BUK says, application is the more important thing. The problem with adding additional splodges is that when they meet under compression they form a small microscopic line at the join between them.

I also think you may have applied too much paste. I used to deal with folks who thought applying a thick layer was good as it acted like a gasket but it's there to simply fill in all the holes between the mating surfaces so as to stop any (microscopic) air gaps. (I used to do this stuff for a living - you can tell!)

Thick paste isn't necessarily better than thin - depends on the heat impedence and transference of the product. Arctic Silver 5 is good because the silver molecules never form a flat surface so don't trap heat in. I suspect IC diamond is on the same principle. With the amount of paste you have there a lot will have spilled over the GPU heatsink edge and it could also form too much of a barrier. Any product that stays liquidy (technical term!) rather than forming a solid gasket over time is preferrable. Arctic Silver 5 is great in that regard with it's 200 hour burn-in time.

And I recommend using alcohol handwash to give the mating surfaces a really good finish before applying new paste (if you don't have Arcticlean or isopropyl alcohol).

Personally I'd go for TUNIQ TX-4 over IC Diamond. I did use IC-D but it's a real pig to apply properly and I was always concerned about it's spreadability and long-term performance - all the stuff in tubes got solid after two years of storage. Anyway, just my 2 pennies worth!

Gregster · 16 Nov 2014 at 16:44

Nice results

frostdragon · 16 Nov 2014 at 16:55

mrwolf said:
Frostdragon; did you put a big splodge of IC paste in the centre and little dots all around? It looks like it from the pic. I think with IC diamond you need to put a line going across the centre rather than a pea shaped amount. As 555BUK says, application is the more important thing. The problem with adding additional splodges is that when they meet under compression they form a small microscopic line at the join between them.

I also think you may have applied too much paste. I used to deal with folks who thought applying a thick layer was good as it acted like a gasket but it's there to simply fill in all the holes between the mating surfaces so as to stop any (microscopic) air gaps. (I used to do this stuff for a living - you can tell!)

Thick paste isn't necessarily better than thin - depends on the heat impedence and transference of the product. Arctic Silver 5 is good because the silver molecules never form a flat surface so don't trap heat in. I suspect IC diamond is on the same principle. With the amount of paste you have there a lot will have spilled over the GPU heatsink edge and it could also form too much of a barrier. Any product that stays liquidy (technical term!) rather than forming a solid gasket over time is preferrable. Arctic Silver 5 is great in that regard with it's 200 hour burn-in time.

And I recommend using alcohol handwash to give the mating surfaces a really good finish before applying new paste (if you don't have Arcticlean or isopropyl alcohol).

Personally I'd go for TUNIQ TX-4 over IC Diamond. I did use IC-D but it's a real pig to apply properly and I was always concerned about it's spreadability and long-term performance - all the stuff in tubes got solid after two years of storage. Anyway, just my 2 pennies worth!

Nope i used Isopropyl mate dont worry. Also those little splodges were just access on the end of tube that had come out-being a yorkshireman well and true I hate waste so put the pslodges on.

Actually on CPUS with an IHD LARGER than 1366 cpu it is recommended to put a large splodge in the centre and smaller towards the corners. We recommend that for socket 2011 and 2011 pin-3

frostdragon · 17 Nov 2014 at 02:47

Will purchase a second card soon, in order to test under SLI

mikemod · 17 Nov 2014 at 10:52

Is this still available, wouldn't mind giving it a try on my msi 970 as well

Razor Time · 17 Nov 2014 at 12:43

Every stock gpu cooler I have repasted has seen a drop of at least 5c so I cant see what the big deal is about this info which has been posted.

Clairvoyant · 17 Nov 2014 at 13:17

I would love to do this on my MSI Titan cooler 780Ti.

So if there is any left I would be very grateful.

TIA

mikemod · 18 Nov 2014 at 20:32

On second thoughts I will leave it
I have just spotted this on one of the heatsink screws.
It Looks like the warranty is void if the heatsink is removed on MSI 970s

Bradmax57 · 18 Nov 2014 at 20:37

I've got an email from msi tech in the Netherlands stating that removing heatsink itself doesn't void the warranty, causing damage by removing it does.

mikemod · 18 Nov 2014 at 20:48

Thanks, just noticed other threads saying similar, that if the card was bought from OCUK and no damage was caused then the warranty will still be honored.

Bradmax57 · 18 Nov 2014 at 22:10

no problem, that was from msi themselves so doesn't really matter where it was bought

Blackwhite · 18 Nov 2014 at 22:27

So can I remove cooler on my MSI or not.Maybe someone from OCUK could post a comment please.

Bradmax57 · 18 Nov 2014 at 23:27

Yes you can but if you break the card in the process doing so you wont get any warranty, for example if when removing the cooler you scratch the pcb or knock of a capacitor etc etc then you wont be covered, removing to replace the compound is fine, I suggest emailing MSI support yourself to confirm, i'm trying to find my email now

edit found it

exact words were

"Dear Sir

You can change the thermal paste and remove the label, without voiding the warranty.

Thank you"

Blackwhite · 18 Nov 2014 at 23:30

Yes I know if I will do any physical damage it will void the warranty.Thank mate

setter · 18 Nov 2014 at 23:32

Impressive results. Tempted to try this on my top card, 4-5c would be a very nice drop. Wouldnt need to bother with the lower one as it runs cool enough.

rtho782 · 19 Nov 2014 at 18:32

I've just done my bottom card (980 sli) and I'm running 3dmark firestrike ultra gt2 on loop.

Unfortunately I didn't do any before tests, but right now, gpu1 is 85 degrees at 71% fan, gpu2 is 80 degrees at 51% fan.

Seems to have made a massive difference. I'll post back with gpu1 results shortly.

Edit: after 15m of 3dmark, 77% fan and 87 degrees max on GPU1, 55% fan and 81 degrees max on GPU2. I realise GPU1 is driving the monitors etc but that's better than I expected.

SirCanealot · 19 Nov 2014 at 22:09

Hey, frostdragon. I just sent you a trust message. Not sure if tubes are still available, but thought it was worth a try xD

Thought it'd be interesting to do a comparison on my Windforce 780ti via Cudaminer since it puts such a consistent high load on cards (I leave it running at night sometimes to take the chill out of the air in my old house)

RichardH754 · 20 Nov 2014 at 13:00

I would like to try this on my 980s and CPU?

Do you have any more spare going?

frostdragon · 27 Nov 2014 at 19:00

This round we are keeping the tubes to be sent out rather low, due to the low returns last time and in addition we would hate to interfere with OCUK 's sales of the product:_

Will let you all know how it goes

Frosty