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Just got a Smok TF4V Mini :) Not built my own coils before have bought an extra RBA are they easy to make?

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I build my first coil for my Kanger subtank mini today, Pretty easy, especially when youtube helped me along :)
 
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I want the Wismec but not enough to pre order and especially not from a US vendor, by the time they actually get stock and then the shipping time to the UK, we will have better reviews out of the Final product and then UK vendors will get stock, far better for warranty purposes i think, so im going to try an wait...
 
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I'm gutted.

Off to the US tomorrow morning and getting my vapes ready, had planned on using a 1ohm coil in a subtank mini with the istick 40W.

I haven't used it in about 3 weeks, which used to work absolutely fine. Switching it on now it thinks there is an atty on there 80% of the time when infact there isn't. I can hold the fire button down and it's not telling me there isn't an atomiser. I wonder if not using it for a while has barfed the pin, and there was infact something like juice in there which has knackered it. I only use tanks on this thing so I'm not thinking it's juice atm.

Anyone have any quick fixes? Grr! Going to have to take my IPV D2 with batteries which I wanted to avoid. Very frustrating!
 
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Soldato
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Have you tried giving the 510 centre pin a wiggle with a very small screw driver like we used to have to do on the fixed centre pin of the 20w version, just to see if it jolts something, if it is juice making a contact, that might clear it?
 
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I really want a DNA200 device, not even too worried about Lipo, I like the look of the Efusion or the Lavabox. Think Ill sell my X cube and put some cash towards one :)
 
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Have you tried giving the 510 centre pin a wiggle with a very small screw driver like we used to have to do on the fixed centre pin of the 20w version, just to see if it jolts something, if it is juice making a contact, that might clear it?

Tried all that, even took the outer casing apart.

Ended up going postal on it out of frustration. Ahh well, just an excuse to upgrade to the 60W for a new 'backup' :)
 
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Forget the isticks, anything past the 30w have proven dodgy from reports, for similar size and better performance try the IPV D2, seams a good bet based off reports, many on here lol
 
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Forget the isticks, anything past the 30w have proven dodgy from reports, for similar size and better performance try the IPV D2, seams a good bet based off reports, many on here lol

I've had one since they came out, awesome little devices. This is now what will be coming with me to the states :p
 
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Well, new shipment in from chefs, must say this stuff is a big step up from the cloud9 stuff, much milder and refined, and has turned even a mere nautilis into a mini fog machine.

Currently on the georgian peach lemonade, really nice and the flavour has that infuriating mildness that makes you want moar.
 
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This is odd. I just wicked the RBA deck of the Kanger sub tank mini, and there's a 5 wrap coil already pre-installed. Screwed it onto my mod and nothing, it says check atomiser. Mod just shows my wattage but 0 ohms and 0 voltage.
The two screws holding the coil are tight and the coil terminals are as they should be, caught under the screws. I could bin the coil and make another but can't see what's wrong with this one.
 
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This is odd. I just wicked the RBA deck of the Kanger sub tank mini, and there's a 5 wrap coil already pre-installed. Screwed it onto my mod and nothing, it says check atomiser. Mod just shows my wattage but 0 ohms and 0 voltage.
The two screws holding the coil are tight and the coil terminals are as they should be, caught under the screws. I could bin the coil and make another but can't see what's wrong with this one.

You sure the 510 in the mod isn't shorting? Pretty common thing that causes that. Try screwing the subtank out a bit and see if it stops, if it does it normally means the oring in the mods 510 pin is being swished and shorting on the sides.
 
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Ive had that, the RBA deck on some subtanks has a shorter positive pin so does not make good contact with the base 510, if you can unscrew the rba a little, then push the base 510 centre pin up into the base a little, then screw the rba back down and try it.
 
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okay this billow v2 deck isn't happy with twisted wire builds as the deck is too small and catches the cap.

It reads 0.6ohms and fires, as soon as I screw everything together I get low res as the cap is touching the coils I presume.
 
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Deck is pretty small but if you build coils with 2mm internal diameter should be fine.Have quad twisted 30 gauge(kanthal) in mine & enough room but does take some time to get it right.Only use about 5 or 6 turns , anymore & it gets real difficult to wick properly.
 
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You sure the 510 in the mod isn't shorting? Pretty common thing that causes that. Try screwing the subtank out a bit and see if it stops, if it does it normally means the oring in the mods 510 pin is being swished and shorting on the sides.

Ive had that, the RBA deck on some subtanks has a shorter positive pin so does not make good contact with the base 510, if you can unscrew the rba a little, then push the base 510 centre pin up into the base a little, then screw the rba back down and try it.




Not shorting. But no luck so far. My kayfun and my IGO-W work fine in the mod, and both stock coils for the subtank mini work fine, just not the RBA deck of the subtank. Yes, the pin on the RBA is about 2mm shorter than the stock coils and as you say, isn't making good contact. I tried what you said but can't see how to push the base 510 pin further up into the base. This is pretty lame of Kanger, you'd think they'd make sure the pin is long enough to make proper contact.
 
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