Type R and VTEC owners

Man of Honour
OP
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This is what a little over 4 and a half grand gets you.

Going to get her cleaned up then on track.

01'C/W Red seats Black oem wheels.
Gruppe M
RBC
Mapped by Romain @ Eurospec 243bhp.
Full DC Sports system. DC Battery tie bar.
Front and rear Mugen struts,Mugen oil filler/radiator caps.Mugen gear knob.
Eichbach springs.
B&M short shift.
Spoon ETD,Spoon Front brace,
Genuine Seibon C/F Rear spoiler.
C/F Bonnet.
2 spare OEM rims.
New rear discs and front pads unfitted.
And some other bits.

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Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
4,020
Location
Wellington, NZ
Please post some pictures of that Teg once you've polished it up, will be interesting to see how it comes up!

edit:

Fitted;
HKS Hi-power dual
AEM Meth kit
BBK

Made 460bhp @ the wheels with the meth kit but the belt was slipping so had to stop tuning. Ordered an 8-rib pulley setup to replace the 6-rib one. It's a custom job so still being machined in the States. The crank pulley goes from 6.5" to 7.5" and the blower pulley goes from 3.6" to 4.3" for more belt wrap. Will make 1.5-2psi more with the new setup. Hoping to crack 500whp! Fingers crossed.

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Associate
Joined
10 Mar 2009
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Location
Newark
Holy crap! my 331 WHP seems plenty enough power for the road, in some circumstances too much, i cant imagine 500 whp being even remotely usable in most circumstances.

My s2000 still has issues since being supercharged, temperature on dash goes up once you put your foot down for a few pulls, upgraded my radiator to mishimoto 3 row and still have the issue, not sure if it is the water pump going faulty as i had the belts off and it is making a strange noise when you turn it slowly, also getting a strange constant metallic scratching noise at idle which i thought was a pulley but i replaced the bearings in the idle pulleys and still have the noise

Idle noise after idle bearings and belt replaced
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PQd8g8KqnA&feature=youtu.be

Waterpump strange noise when turning it slowly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOsRBK_OD3c

If anyone has any ideas im all ears, S2KI is not being much help at moment!
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
4,020
Location
Wellington, NZ
Holy crap! my 331 WHP seems plenty enough power for the road, in some circumstances too much, i cant imagine 500 whp being even remotely usable in most circumstances.

My s2000 still has issues since being supercharged, temperature on dash goes up once you put your foot down for a few pulls, upgraded my radiator to mishimoto 3 row and still have the issue, not sure if it is the water pump going faulty as i had the belts off and it is making a strange noise when you turn it slowly, also getting a strange constant metallic scratching noise at idle which i thought was a pulley but i replaced the bearings in the idle pulleys and still have the noise

Idle noise after idle bearings and belt replaced
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PQd8g8KqnA&feature=youtu.be

Waterpump strange noise when turning it slowly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOsRBK_OD3c

If anyone has any ideas im all ears, S2KI is not being much help at moment!

I ran 420whp for a year and I always thought it could have done with more :p 1st gear isn't much good but from there I think it's great! That's one of the reasons i really liked the supercharger setup on these, that kind of power is much more usable than the turbo equivalent (imo). I've purposefully kept F1's on the rear too so it's not too harsh on the diff - I don't get that much slip either in the dry.

I'd definitely be investigating the waterpump, that doesn't sound like mine. Maybe it's missing some fins? Do your fans come on?
 
Associate
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Location
Newark
I ran 420whp for a year and I always thought it could have done with more :p 1st gear isn't much good but from there I think it's great! That's one of the reasons i really liked the supercharger setup on these, that kind of power is much more usable than the turbo equivalent (imo). I've purposefully kept F1's on the rear too so it's not too harsh on the diff - I don't get that much slip either in the dry.

I'd definitely be investigating the waterpump, that doesn't sound like mine. Maybe it's missing some fins? Do your fans come on?

Not sure if its just a dry rubber seal or something, i dont think it will be missing any fins as its a metal pump inside, something is not right with the car and its doing my head in! i guess changing the pump would not hurt as it is 10 years old now, just a shame to change it if it is fine, and by time i have drained the system and removed the old one to take a look i may have well bought a new one to swap it with!

What does your pump sound like when you spin it? does it spin fairly easy? and no rubber type squeak?
 
Soldato
Joined
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Posts
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Location
Wellington, NZ
The car shouldn't be getting hot though, my radiator is stock (new oem) and the temperatures are fine on dyno pulls. There's no squeaking from my waterpump that I can notice? The waterpump is easy to change too.

Check;

Do your radiator fans come on?
Does your heater get warm?
When did you last bleed the system? Could be air in it.
Also check the thermostat.
 
Associate
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Location
Newark
The car shouldn't be getting hot though, my radiator is stock (new oem) and the temperatures are fine on dyno pulls. There's no squeaking from my waterpump that I can notice? The waterpump is easy to change too.

Check;

Do your radiator fans come on?
Does your heater get warm?
When did you last bleed the system? Could be air in it.
Also check the thermostat.

Radiator fans come on as they should, heater gets warm as it should, system has been bled 3 times, twice by me, with brand new coolant, and once by the tuner who vacuum filled it, thermostat is brand new changed it to a mishimoto low temp stat, radiator has been changed to a 3 row mishimoto radiator. Did all of that work on request of the tuner, he said doing so would fix the over heating problem. Only things left on the cooling side of things are pump and the coolant temp sensor. Both of them not cheap but fairly easy to swap out

I am waiting for tuner to get back to me to book me in to test the coolant temp sensor and check the coolant for exhaust gasses in case of a head gasket problem. Been like this now since car was tuned, over a month ago.
 
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Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
4,020
Location
Wellington, NZ
Hmm, i'd definitely be investigating the pump next then, especially with the sounds its making..

Do you have an AFR gauge? You're not running lean or anything are you? I doubt it if you've had it properly tuned. See what AFR you're pulling at WOT and 7000+ RPM.
 
Associate
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Posts
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Location
Newark
Hmm, i'd definitely be investigating the pump next then, especially with the sounds its making..

Do you have an AFR gauge? You're not running lean or anything are you? I doubt it if you've had it properly tuned. See what AFR you're pulling at WOT and 7000+ RPM.

i do have a gauge yes which is connected to the ems with feedback enabled, haven't looked at the gauge during a pull, what sort of numbers should i be looking at?

cars booked in for the 7th so will wait and see what the coolant sensor and head gasket test come back with before i start spending money on a new pump.
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
4,020
Location
Wellington, NZ
<11.5/12 depending on boost. There are a lot of variables there though. I highly doubt your tuner would have let you take the car back if it was running lean.

Let us know what the tests come back with.
 
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