Who here owns a Subaru?

ScoobyDoo69 · 4 Feb 2017 at 20:06

Already started that timer on mine

VTR · 4 Feb 2017 at 20:31

Woah! What's happened with the prices on these, I sold my low mileage JDM Sti v7 around 7/8 years ago for around £8k... they're not much cheaper now :/

ScoobyDoo69 · 4 Feb 2017 at 21:07

Cheaper? People are asking for more with more miles and worse condition!

Phil W · 4 Feb 2017 at 21:56

They are holding strong money at the moment. I bought mine at a few hundred shy of £9k (03 STi, 70k) and I'm quite confident I could sell it now and make money on it. They seem to have dipped and are now on the rise again.

Meridian · 4 Feb 2017 at 22:13

Rybo89 said:
Just drove a 371BHP STi

ReAPeR101 · 5 Feb 2017 at 08:03

Rybo89 said:
Just drove a 371BHP STi

Try 436bhp

Biffa · 5 Feb 2017 at 08:10

Rybo89 said:
I'll be honest, i haven't grinned like that for a long time when it comes to driving. I was giggling like a little girl. Certainly took me by surprise.

As a next car though, i dunno.. It is completely different to what i have been looking into lately. I think if one was to pop up that is to my taste and that has a very good history, i might just go and have a wander at it. Is the 2.5 to be avoided?

Up to 350-375 stock internals should be fine if they are well looked after. Anything near or over 400bhp and you are asking for trouble. That's when you need to get things forged or get a 2.0 converted to 2.33 closed deck block.

VTR · 5 Feb 2017 at 10:31

ScoobyDoo69 said:
Cheaper? People are asking for more with more miles and worse condition!

After a close inspection, you're right! Madness :eek:

Aeleys · 5 Feb 2017 at 18:36

sold mine for 8k and recently saw it, asked the bloke how much he bought it for and he said 12k.......madness! I miss it. Think I need another one

Rybo89 · 6 Feb 2017 at 17:28

Is DCCD a must? Is this essentially a drift button or just another headache? (something else to break)

Phil W · 6 Feb 2017 at 17:37

Mine is a non-DCCD. Don't miss it but then I never had it to miss it

Mine is making a curious noise. This noise to be exact:

Friend who is a Subaru technician seems to think it is a dry CV, no grease around the wheel area or under the car though. My immediate thought was wheel bearing. Taking it to be checked out this week.

Don't get the noise all the time, seems to be once the car is warmed up and has travelled at speed (60mph) and then going slower (30mph) that it can be heard.

Rybo89 · 6 Feb 2017 at 18:04

Sticking caliper getting red hot. Have a feel of the wheel and see if it is hotter than the rest.

Phil W · 6 Feb 2017 at 18:18

It's not that sort of noise. The video probably makes it sound like metal squealing but it's more of a creaky/rubbery sound.

Frozennova · 6 Feb 2017 at 18:22

Rybo89 said:
Is DCCD a must? Is this essentially a drift button or just another headache? (something else to break)

Neither a must or anything like a drift button. To put it very simply it doesn't what a Limited Slip does between the wheels on a 2wd on a per axle basis on a 4wd car

agw_01 · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:06

The STi 6 box is pretty strong but a 2nd hand DCCD box is big money compared to a normal box if you blow it up.

Mine is left in AUTO 99% of the time, but when I took it out to play in the snow the other week it made a noticeable difference to traction when locked. It's doubtful you'd ever use it on the road in the UK but if a nice DCCD car is available within budget, you might as well go for it.

I think the drive bias is orientated slightly more to the rear on DCCD cars too, 65/35 when open springs to mind.

Frozennova · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:23

You get the same F/R split regardless of the Center diff being locked or not but DCCD does bias power ever so slightly to the rear

Rybo89 · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:30

2004 (54)
STI PPP Widetrack 301BHP
70k miles
FSH with paperwork
All new Avon tyres
All new disk and pads
Inside & out mint condition
Full MOT

He has said he will take my car and £1.5k on top for his car. Certainly gave me something to think about. Do you think these cars will keep going up and up in price or start going back down once the fuel prices rise?

Rybo89 · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:33

agw_01 said:
The STi 6 box is pretty strong but a 2nd hand DCCD box is big money compared to a normal box if you blow it up.

Mine is left in AUTO 99% of the time, but when I took it out to play in the snow the other week it made a noticeable difference to traction when locked. It's doubtful you'd ever use it on the road in the UK but if a nice DCCD car is available within budget, you might as well go for it.

I think the drive bias is orientated slightly more to the rear on DCCD cars too, 65/35 when open springs to mind.

Thanks for this.

i came across this:

DRIVER'S CONTROL CENTER DIFF

The intent of this mechanism is to adjust the diff lock ratio of the LSD (limited slip differential) as necessary.

Adjusting the dial to "diff free" (indicator: green, empty square, empty triangle) under normal driving conditions, and "diff lock" (bright orange solid triangle) on gravel, snow, in the rain, is effective (probably means suggested). By setting the diff lock ratio as necessary, depending on the various roads and running conditions, unrivaled driving mobility will be demonstrated.

WARNING!
This is not an all purpose vehicle. DO NOT overestimate its abilities. Please use appropriate discretion and drive at safe speeds where there are sudden braking, sudden turns, sudden curbs, snowy roads, slippery roads, etc.

USING THE CONTROL DIAL

The dial is located next to the handbrake lever, rotating it fully forward is diff free, rotating it fully backward is diff lock. You can continuously change the diff lock ratio using the settings in between.

DIFF FREE: No front and rear LSD (Front to rear power distribution=36:64)

DIFF LOCK: The front and rear have an almost direct connection. (Front to rear power distribution=front/rear load distribution)

INDICATOR (ON THE METER DISPLAY)
The diff lock ratio is displayed at one of six settings, as it is linked to the control dial. The upper lighted block (orange solid triangle) indicates a greater direct connection.

The true lock ratio can be continuously changed.

ADVICE
• The indicator is the criterion.
• Regardless of what the dial settings are, LOCK will illuminate for one second after the key is turned to the on position.
• At night, while your driving lights are on, the display may appear to go dark for a moment, but this is normal.

CANCELLATION OF DIFFLOCK

Even if the DCCD is set to LOCK (orange), by pulling the hand brake lever, it will automatically go to DIFF FREE, moving all power to the rear wheels. (linked to the brake warning light) However, the indicator will not change.
Once you release the hand brake lever, the DCCD will return to its proper setting.

TIGHT CORNER BRAKING PHENOMENON (makes more sense once you read the following)

When the indicator is orange while driving on dry tarmac/asphalt, corners, and even reverse parking, due to the rotational difference between the front and rear wheels, there are cases where heavy vibration and noise may occur during braking.

Though this is not out of the ordinary, and to resolve this "problem", you can simply either set the DCCD to DIFF FREE or pull the hand brake enough so that the brake warning light illuminates.

While you may feel a light "shock" when using the control dial during quick acceleration and tight cornering, due to the movement of the center diff, this is normal.

WARNING!
• DO NOT use the DCCD while any of the wheels are in mid air.
• Set the DCCD to DIFF FREE while the car is stopped.
• Set the DCCD to DIFF FREE while the car is being pulled or towed. The car can only be towed/pulled either by rope or on a rollback. DO NOT pull or tow the car on only its front or rear wheels. Please see page 195 for more information on warnings related to towing.
• ALWAYS set the DCCD to DIFF FREE when using the emergency spare tire. Change or fix the tire as soon as possible.
• When the center diff requires repair (control unit, disconnected wires, shorted wires, voltage issues, etc.) the DCCD reverts back to DIFF FREE and the indicator (at which you last had it set) should flash at 1 second intervals. Please go to your nearest Subaru dealer immediately. Once a problem arises, even if the unit regains power, it will not reset itself until the engine key is set to the off position

agw_01 · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:41

How much is yours worth Rybo?

Interesting, I didn't know pulling the handbrake disabled the diff.

Rybo89 · 6 Feb 2017 at 21:47

I am not entirely sure to be honest with you. Autotraders price guide says £9.5k private, WBAC have offered me £7500. So somewhere between there i guess.