HDMI extender over ethernet

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Evening all,

I'm in a bit of a quandary.

I have an 8 cam cctv setup which is all sorted, perfectly working and the cabling has been working for the last 12 months with no issues.

I've recently had to move the NVR to a different location (office is now nursery no. 2). The NVR is under the stairs and unfortunately there's nowhere really for me to plonk a monitor. I've run a spare Cat5e UTP cable from that location to the rear of my TV (no more than 15m of cable).

I've purchased a HDMI extender over ethernet, but can't get it to output any signal.

I bought the eSynic HDMI extender 1080p 60m HDMI extenders.

I've checked both the Tx and Rx HDMI leads and they are fine.

I've checked the Cat5e install with a redundant camera and that is working fine with a PoE camera.

I've also checked that its working as it should by attaching it to the router and plugging in the wife's computer to it. As far as I can tell - the cable has been terminated and crimped correctly as there doesn't appear to be any signal loss at all.

So... I thought I'd try the HDMI extender using a 2m lead - worked perfectly. Then tried a 15m lead and an image was displayed - however, it just wouldn't stay on the screen and was full of interference.

So...Is the cable I have rubbish? Do I need to stump up for some Cat6 cable? Or do I need some all singing all dancing super duper shielded Cat5e cable?

Is there *really* any difference between different types of UTP cable - or is it much of a muchness?

Am I using rubbish RJ45 connectors?

Or is it likely I've got a dodgy unit?

Has any body got any recommendations of installs that they have working?

Cheers,

Tom
 
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There are significant bandwidth differences between the different categories of cable.

For Ethernet it's more-or-less irrelevant unless you need to support 10GbE. Gigabit only requires Cat5e or better.

For most HDMI senders it will matter. The senders that will work with Cat5e usually need two dedicated cables.

If the cable can be easy replaced then some good quality Cat6 should sort you out.

I only had a single Cat5e cable available and ended up using a set of ESYNIC HDbitT HDMI Extenders. They're more expensive but give me a perfect 1080p picture over a single cable approx. 20m long.

They're good but with a few caveats:

  • The description suggests that they can share your existing network. They can work like this (they use TCP/IP), but they flood the network and everything grinds to a halt. If you connect them directly as you would normal extenders they're fine.
  • The sound gradually goes out of sync and I occasionally have to power cycle the sender unit.
  • The pass-through for the IR remote is a bit slow.
 
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I can recommend the Neet HDMI to ethernet units from the rainforest. I'm using twin cat6 and it's been pretty much flawless. The IR sender is excellent too.

For the OP, the first thing would be to replace the network cable with solid core Cat6 and see if that helps.
 
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Cheers gents.

@bremen1874

Thanks for your very in depth reply! To be honest, a bit more googling has sort of brought me up to speed with what you've said. I was reading about the TCP/IP issues with the HDbitT and would, as you suggest, only be using it point to point - so hopefully that would solve the issue. However, I think I might just bite the bullet and purchase some cat6 cable. Although, I might just do both - upgrade to the slightly more expensive Tx/Rx and also do cat6.

- can I use my current RJ45 crimping tool for cat6? I know I have to cut the cables into a wedge shape from 1 - 8 - but I keep seeing these plugs that look like something off Star Trek - no idea!

@tom_nieto

I'd seen the neet ones! I think my issue, as mentioned above is that I'm only using the one cable. An upgrade of 1, or both of the sender and the cable is necessary!! I'll certainly start with the cable!

Cheers!

Last question - any specific type of cable to avoid? I assume fully shielded, both the outer sheath and individual foil sheaths as well??
 
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bremen1874;30497309 said:
Yes. Make sure you use Cat6 plugs if you're using Cat6 cable.

Do you need to be putting your own ends on?

Unfortunately yes! The cable runs through an exterior wall and then back in through another exterior wall. It was hard enough feeding the cable through on its own - I'd have to expand the original drill hole to fit the plugs through. Its all physically protected - just a bit less faffing than drilling holes in the interior walls!

Cheers
 
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In that situation I'd prefer faceplates at both ends and solid core cable.

If you're putting plugs onto solid core make sure the plugs are suitable as some are only designed for use with stranded cable (although this was more common with Cat5e).

If it's going outside and exposed buy external grade cable. The jacket on standard cable will UV degrade.
 
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I use an Esynic unit (the one that allows you to have the output on two TVs)

I use it with a flat cat6 cable (20m long) that I chopped one end off and punched it down onto a standard cat5e module, then connected the module to the second unit using a standard cat5e 1m patch lead.

Its been in place for just about a year now and has been flawless.
 
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bremen1874;30497350 said:
In that situation I'd prefer faceplates at both ends and solid core cable.

If you're putting plugs onto solid core make sure the plugs are suitable as some are only designed for use with stranded cable (although this was more common with Cat5e).

If it's going outside and exposed buy external grade cable. The jacket on standard cable will UV degrade.

Lots to think about. I think you're right though and I would definitely consider this to be more long term solution.

Would I be ok buying external, shielded cat6 cable, terminating it before the plug, mounting it onto two back plates and then using short runs of cat6 between the back plates and the Tx/Rx?

I assume that would work??
 
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Sorry. I mean cutting the plugs off, then stripping back and wiring it to the faceplate.

Asides the obvious - what benefits does this mean?

If I wasn't going to do the faceplate thing - would suitably securing the cable on the wall be any less favourable?
 
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Plugs or faceplates, either will work. Do whatever suits your situation best.

Pre-assembled cables should be made using stranded cable. The IDC punch downs on faceplates aren't designed to work stranded cable (although people do seem to get away with it).

If you're going to use faceplates buy a length of solid core cable and do it right.

If you're going to use plugs you can use solid core or stranded. Just make sure the plugs are of the correct type (some are only suitable for stranded cable).
 
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I'm about to do the same thing for my extension once built. I have already run coax through an io rf modulator, through to a booster in the attic which now will give me freeview and sky in mono / sd.

I'm thinking I should run a hdmi solution in also, just in case we change to virgin who currently have no other option but to extend the hdmi.
 
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I used a brush plate with terminated cabled tucked in behind rather than a faceplate for video signals in our extension. I read somewhere that using faceplates and adding extra connections can degrade the signal and cause interference issues. I'm sure it's blown well out of proportion and can be solved by using decent cabling and sender units, but it's easy enough to change around in the future.

Regarding the Neet senders, I think they do a single cable version. I had the opportunity to run two cables so I took it.
 
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For HDMI over network cable it's usually best to use screened Cat 6 (solid core) cable, although unscreened is OK. It's also preferable to terminate the cable with RJ45 plugs. If sockets are used, it is preferable for the patch leads to the converters to be solid core, make up your own patch cables with the same cable that you used for the main cable run.

I`ve used a fair few eSync converters, and they are pretty good. However experience has show that they can be a bit temperamental, and you have to make sure that your cabling and connections are good.
 
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