£5K (give or take) something quicker than a Focus but just as reliable

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Do you (or anyone here) understand which trim is which ?
is there something that looks better (like a Type-R or with a "sports bodykit" type of thing and have the extras on like parking sensors?

Sort of the civic trims get a little confusing if I'm being honest. The main problem you have is that in the Civics nothing else but the EX-GT has the same amount of kit as the EX-GT. Your closest is something like the Si for the sporty looks (this one) http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201708318832132. But from a quick glance you loose the panaromic roof, sat nav, xenons, leather, and the uprated stereo is replaced with just the standard one. I'll grant you it's a better looking thing but there's definately less kit on it.
 
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He might aswell just get the Type R they are not that much more expensive and look far better. The other models look crap and 5.5k for a 8yr old diesel Civic is laughable.
 
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He might aswell just get the Type R they are not that much more expensive and look far better. The other models look crap and 5.5k for a 8yr old diesel Civic is laughable.

Looks are somewhat subjective though? Although a type R may be faster in almost every other way it's essentially worse than the EX-GT trim level. It has less toys, costs more to run, more to tax, is less economical, and likely less comfortable. This is all well and good if your spec list calls for a hot hatch, but ultimately this is for someone that wants "something faster than a focus" and has heated mirrors and parking sensors as a must have. Generally speaking if you want a hot hatch, you would have this listed as your main criteria considerably higher than heated mirrors........
 
Underboss
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Sort of the civic trims get a little confusing if I'm being honest. The main problem you have is that in the Civics nothing else but the EX-GT has the same amount of kit as the EX-GT. Your closest is something like the Si for the sporty looks (this one) http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201708318832132. But from a quick glance you loose the panaromic roof, sat nav, xenons, leather, and the uprated stereo is replaced with just the standard one. I'll grant you it's a better looking thing but there's definately less kit on it.

were you meant to type EX-GT twice ?


so what am i looking at, either a EX-GT or the TypeS -GT ? do these have the same kit? the TypeS looks nice if im honest
 
Soldato
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were you meant to type EX-GT twice ?


so what am i looking at, either a EX-GT or the TypeS -GT ? do these have the same kit? the TypeS looks nice if im honest
He did, he's saying only the EX-GT comes with all the toys, other trims may look nicer or be faster but will have less spec.
 
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@ShiWarrior , I literally just joined this forum two days ago (Problems with my old Dell PC) and stumbled across this topic, as a long time MX5 enthusiast I thought I'd chime in.

With Mazdas rust is always going to be the main issue. They're basic cars and parts are very cheap. Mechanical issues are usually easy/cheap to sort, rust however, not so much. Rusty/badly repaired ones are ten a penny on Ebay for very little money.

One tool I'd encourage you to use is the governments MOT checker. Simply put the reg in and you can see all MOT's back to 2005. Look for advisories for corrosion ;) Here you go...https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

The 'holy grail' in MX5 circles is a never welded/rust free car. These days they're very hard to find in Mk1/Mk2 format. Here's how to spot one. Look at the photo below, notice the dimples that run around the inside of the rear arch lip, they're the original spot welds from when it came out of the factory.

sell1 by

Where cars have been repaired these usually are no longer present, the issue with previously repaired cars is that it's usually done for a reason, to cover rust! People weld patches over existing rust, or worse just cover it with filler. In these circumstances the corrosion will always come back.

Don't get me wrong, some cars will have been repaired properly with old rust cut out etc, but without having done the job yourself there's no way of knowing and therewithin lies the virtue in buying a never welded example.

As others have said Mk1's rust less than Mk2's, and earlier Mk1's rust less than later Mk1's. For MX5 'Purists' the early (1989) Mk1's are the ones to buy. They're lighter (Thinner door panels etc), have the more powerful lightweight sports crank engine, faster, rev more freely, have a real working oil pressure guage and are also now skyrocketing in value as rusty examples are scrapped and numbers dwindle.

Here are some more pics of the car above (some of which were taken during the autum strip down/clean)...

sell2 by
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/
sell5 by
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/
SAM_4613 by
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/
sell4 by
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/
sell3 by

I've had her for coming up to three years, only ever used in summer, dry stored year round (April-Sept) and covered about 600 miles per year (Although being an import clocks read in km). Come Sept each year I have stripped down and cleaned eveything. I have all original import papers and have serviced/restored the car myself extensively with new suspension all round, slave and master cylinders renewed, new brakes, coolant/oil/plugs/filters changed, thoroughly undersealed and cavity waxed using BiltHamber products.

It costs me £136 a year to insure fully comprehensive on a classic policy with Lancaster.

The car has covered just under 100k miles (Around 3k a year since 1989). REG G184 FWC - MOT history has no mention of corrosion recoreded ever. Values of original production year examples like this are only going one way, UP. I'd planned to sell the car for a smidge over £3k in the spring but could be tempted to sell before with the right offer (Shameless plug) :)

At present I plan to take the car off the road for winter and sell in the spring as I genuinely don't get the chance to use it anymore with a growing family and work commitments (This summer I've covered a pathetinc 150 miles in total)
 
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He did, he's saying only the EX-GT comes with all the toys, other trims may look nicer or be faster but will have less spec.

Exactly that. They type-s GT comes close, but does not have as many toys as the EX-GT. From a quick scan on auto trader you miss out on the built in sat nav, they have the lesser stereo (keep in mind changing the stereo on this generation civic is awkward and expensive, in my mind that alone is reason enough to go for the enchanced one), no full leather (meaning no heated seats), it looks like most do not have HID headlights which are standard on the EX-GT, and it also looks like they don't have rear parking sensors unless they were specced as an option, again these are standard on the EX-GT.

There might be other bits I'm missing, but as you can see from that list alone it's quite a lot of equipment you miss. Unfortunately Honda don't do anything in this price range that offers the looks of the Type S / Type R and equipment of the EX-GT essentially meaning you have to choose, equipment, or looks.

These two adverts give you a good look at the difference between the models.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201706246737314
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201707117263010

It's worth mentioning my partner owns an EX-GT (which I bought for her and have done a good bit of driving in myself) and I wouldn't consider the Type S, I'd even go as far as saying it's a nicer place to be than my own Octavia VRS! Whilst I agree the Type S is better looking once you sit inside the EX-GT is in every way the better option. If you are going to go for the looks and accept the lesser equipment you might as well have the type R as you at least then get the performance to offset the lesser equipment. However, I still dont think the Type R for is for you given your origional list of requirements.
 
Last edited:
Caporegime
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In acme's chair.
@ShiWarrior
, I literally just joined this forum two days ago (Problems with my old Dell PC) and stumbled across this topic, as a long time MX5 enthusiast I thought I'd chime in.

With Mazdas rust is always going to be the main issue. They're basic cars and parts are very cheap. Mechanical issues are usually easy/cheap to sort, rust however, not so much. Rusty/badly repaired ones are ten a penny on Ebay for very little money.

One tool I'd encourage you to use is the governments MOT checker. Simply put the reg in and you can see all MOT's back to 2005. Look for advisories for corrosion ;) Here you go...https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

The 'holy grail' in MX5 circles is a never welded/rust free car. These days they're very hard to find in Mk1/Mk2 format. Here's how to spot one. Look at the photo below, notice the dimples that run around the inside of the rear arch lip, they're the original spot welds from when it came out of the factory.

sell1 by

Where cars have been repaired these usually are no longer present, the issue with previously repaired cars is that it's usually done for a reason, to cover rust! People weld patches over existing rust, or worse just cover it with filler. In these circumstances the corrosion will always come back.

Don't get me wrong, some cars will have been repaired properly with old rust cut out etc, but without having done the job yourself there's no way of knowing and therewithin lies the virtue in buying a never welded example.

As others have said Mk1's rust less than Mk2's, and earlier Mk1's rust less than later Mk1's. For MX5 'Purists' the early (1989) Mk1's are the ones to buy. They're lighter (Thinner door panels etc), have the more powerful lightweight sports crank engine, faster, rev more freely, have a real working oil pressure guage and are also now skyrocketing in value as rusty examples are scrapped and numbers dwindle.

Here are some more pics of the car above (some of which were taken during the autum strip down/clean)...

sell2 by
sell5 by
SAM_4613 by
sell4 by
sell3 by

I've had her for coming up to three years, only ever used in summer, dry stored year round (April-Sept) and covered about 600 miles per year (Although being an import clocks read in km). Come Sept each year I have stripped down and cleaned eveything. I have all original import papers and have serviced/restored the car myself extensively with new suspension all round, slave and master cylinders renewed, new brakes, coolant/oil/plugs/filters changed, thoroughly undersealed and cavity waxed using BiltHamber products.

It costs me £136 a year to insure fully comprehensive on a classic policy with Lancaster.

The car has covered just under 100k miles (Around 3k a year since 1989). REG G184 FWC - MOT history has no mention of corrosion recoreded ever. Values of original production year examples like this are only going one way, UP. I'd planned to sell the car for a smidge over £3k in the spring but could be tempted to sell before with the right offer (Shameless plug) :)

At present I plan to take the car off the road for winter and sell in the spring as I genuinely don't get the chance to use it anymore with a growing family and work commitments (This summer I've covered a pathetinc 150 miles in total)

Set up your trust account and ping me an email. Click the little 'Trust' button on my post. Or send a private message. :)
 
Associate
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Posts
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Location
Nottingham
no had a chance to look and ive been looking on AT for a civic EX-GT, but they are over budget (looking at 60K or less miles)

so i think i'll wait a bit longer

I think you are being a bit optimistic now, a 2010 age well specced car, with less than 60,000 miles, for under £5k is going to be difficult.
 
Associate
Joined
3 Dec 2005
Posts
458
Have read through this thread with interest, as I am very much in the same boat as OP. I like the look of Civic's as well, but finding a good example that isn't 100+ miles away is proving difficult.

Also Hi Binnsy! ;)
 
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