What did you do to your bike today?

Associate
Joined
25 Oct 2002
Posts
2,292
Location
Sarf Lahndahn
Sorry mate, I completely misunderstood the problem, got it confused with Noobish Abbz' starter issue. I thought it was spinning on the starter but not firing. Apologies!

Definitely sounds like a starter or relay issue.
 
Caporegime
Joined
24 Oct 2012
Posts
25,023
Location
Godalming
To be honest it's much of a muchness tbh. At that level of sophistication there's not much difference in it and your CV400 probably shares it's loom with a few other bikes, but don't quote me on that. I love faultfinding tbh. Start at one end and gradually eliminate everything until you find the fault.
 
Soldato
Joined
4 May 2009
Posts
3,370
Location
Southampton
I had an issue with the CBR where it would ride fine for upto 30ish mins and then would cut out. Nothing I did got it going again apart from waiting for 2 hours. It would then start witout issue.

Eventually found the issue to be one of the stator wires had gone through the insultation and was arcing against the frame. This in turn stressed the fuel relay and even had the contacts pulling out of the solder in the fuel pump.

This seemed to need time to take hold and shut the bike down. Might be work checking the loom for something similar
 
Soldato
Joined
15 May 2007
Posts
12,804
Location
Ipswich / Bodham
I had an issue with the CBR where it would ride fine for upto 30ish mins and then would cut out. Nothing I did got it going again apart from waiting for 2 hours. It would then start witout issue.

Eventually found the issue to be one of the stator wires had gone through the insultation and was arcing against the frame. This in turn stressed the fuel relay and even had the contacts pulling out of the solder in the fuel pump.

This seemed to need time to take hold and shut the bike down. Might be work checking the loom for something similar

Thanks - will have a look around and see if there's anything like this going on.
 
Caporegime
Joined
24 Oct 2012
Posts
25,023
Location
Godalming
Awesome, thanks. You've been amazingly helpful. Please feel free to put the icing on the cake and pop over this weekend to fix the fault!


Honestly if I wasn't working I probably would. Been years since I've had a good spannering session. Good luck, once you get the basics the rest tends to fall in to place.
 
Associate
Joined
17 Nov 2011
Posts
1,511
Location
Cambs
I have got a 1999 Firebalde that I bought back in May of last year. It has been quite heavily modified, won't list everyting, but RSVR rear swingarm, R1 rear shock, 929 front forks, custom rear subframe and race seat. When I viewed the bike I was pretty sure there were a few things wrong with it, and the previous owner hadn't looked after it, but I was prepared to spend time and money on it as I got it cheap. It failed it's MOT last year and needed quite a bit of work doing to it:

  • Headlamp image kick incorrect tape and align headlight - £10.00+vat
  • Supply and install red rear reflector - £2.00+vat
  • EBC Vee Rotor front brake discs - £140.00+vat each
  • EBC HH front brake pads - £20.70+vat each. I have quoted 929 front brake as I suspect this is what they are.
  • Rear brake inline pressure switch - £14.00 +vat
  • Dot 4 brake fluid - £2.17+vat
  • Rear Brake pads - £18.75+vat
  • Front fork K-tech parts:
  • Oil seals - £16.61
  • Dust seals - £17.50+vat
  • Guide bushes - £9.78+vat
  • Slide bushes - £10.64+vat
  • Front fork oil £11.80
  • Labour 5hrs @ £55.00+vat per hrs
  • Sundries and consumables £3.00+vat
It failed it's MOT towards the back end of summer so decided that I would tackle most of the work myself, I like tinkering with the bike and decided that there really wasn't anything on the list that I couldn't do. I also wanted to strip all the fairing off the bike and have the radiator off as there were loads of bent fins. The exhaust had started to go a little rusty so wanted to get that off and sand the rust off and paint it black.

I have now, more or less completed all the work, the only thing I am struggling on is the rear brake inline pressure switch. I can see exactly where it is leaking from but am buggered if anything I have seen is the correct part to replace it with. The garage that quoted the work said he uses Goodridge ones like these:https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Prod...V8DLTCh2LUAIDEAQYAyABEgLOAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds but honestly this looks nothing like the part that is leaking on mine. I may have to admit defeat in this and just ask the garage to do it.

The radiator is now all back on with nice straight fins, I have discovered though that the fan doesn't kick in, so I have got a manual switch to wire in this weekend. All new fluids all around. Exhaust and callipers painted black (The bike itself is white so the black goes really well, and the EBC Vee rotors have black hubs). The oil seals hadn't 'gone' they just had dirt and bits in them which didn't allow them to make a seal properly. Bought a sealmate and sorted them in about 30 mins!

My only 2 issue's doing the whole work was 2 snapped studs/bolts. I snapped a bolt undoing the old brake disc. Had to take it to a local car garage who removed it for £10 for me. And I also snapped the head of an exhaust stud. Now this really annoyed me. I ran the bike everyday for a week prior to removing them. Sprayed WD40 after heating it up each day. Then when I came to remove it again ran the bike to temperature before removing the studs. They came off fine. Cleaned all the studs, sanded and painted the exhaust. One snapped when I came to put it back on. So ****** off.

This weekend will involve me getting the fairing all back on and the manual switch wired in. Hopefully will get the brakes bled this weekend as well and then back to get the MOT done at the end of this month.
 
Back
Top Bottom