PSU with 9, 4-pin molex connectors?

Habakkuk

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I'm looking for a power supply with the usual 20+4 motherboard connector and 9, 4-pin Molex connectors - which probably means at least semi-modular.

I don't need or want any other connectors.

I've been daisy-chaining extenders atm, and I've been dealing with power issues and restarts - I'm looking in the 650W range, no lower than 500W.
 

pastymuncher

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I just went through the all of the psu's that OCUK sells and in the up to 800w range and there are only two psu's that come close to the amount of molex cables that you are looking for. Both are from Corsair, the RM750x and the HX750i. Both have 8x 4 pin molex connectors and I double checked the reviews on Jonnyguru to make sure. Every other psu has 2-6 molex connectors. Molex just isn't used with modern components as everything tends to be sata these days so I can see why manufacturers are cutting back on them. You have no choice about the other connections as psu's come with all connections that are needed for a modern system. Couldn't find anything in the 500-650w range that even comes close to the number of molex connectors that you want.

I have found a couple in the above 800w range that have more molex connections than you need but they are not cheap. The first is the Corsair HX850i which has 12 molex connectors. The next is the Corsair RM1000x which also has 12 molex connections. Finally the Corsair RM1000i has 11 molex connectors. I double checked reviews and the number of connectors are correct. There are a couple of others but at over £200 they offer nothing more than the ones I have already listed.
 

Armageus

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Habakkuk said:
I don't need or want any other connectors.

I've been daisy-chaining extenders atm, and I've been dealing with power issues and restarts - I'm looking in the 650W range, no lower than 500W.
Click to expand...

Why do you need that many molex? if you can elaborate, then there are likely other suggestions people will be able to make.


EDIT:
If you are using the "cheap" unsleeved generic molex splitters, then upgrading to some higher quality ones may help:


My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £14.69 (includes shipping: £8.70)
​


Other than that, you would be looking at some kind of Molex Distribution board, like the Bitspower X-Station.
https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=214_229&products_id=2976
https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=214_229&products_id=2975
 
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Habakkuk

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Upgrading a 3D printer - it uses a standard ATX power supply, but adding a camera/reworking the power regulators/RGB lighting has overtaxed it's built-down-to-a-pricepoint PSU.
 

Habakkuk

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This no-name brand is light enough to balance on one finger.
E9YPFQU.jpg

I've hooked up a power supply tester and
rdoSpfF.png

There's no +12V2 line, so that will always show L.L

The -12V line keep jumping between ~10.8 and ~13.6 volts and hitting H.H.
 

pastymuncher

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What a heap of junk. A so called 500w psu with only a pathetic 264w on the 12v rails and I would say they are being over optimistic even at that. I doubt if it could even handle 200w. As Armageus said, that is more likely to be your problem not the extensions. Why would you even use that?
 

Habakkuk

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Oh geez I made the mistake of looking inside - I didn't know they actually got crusty.

It's the one the printer came with - replacing as part of a retrofit.
 

Habakkuk

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Looking at the Corsair line - they all have 25A on the +5V - this crusty PSU claims 30A on +5V.

Infact, the only Corsair PSU I can find more than 25A on that line is the AX1200 with 30A also.

Increasing the wattage/cost of the PSU seems to only increase the +12V lines.

(assuming the crusty one is not straight-up lying about capabilities)
 

Armageus

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Pc power supplies don't focus on 5v as it's not really used.

If your 3d printer specifically needs a lot of 5v then you are going to need to use 2 pc PSUs or a specific psu designed for 3d printers with a bigger 5v rail.
 

Habakkuk

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Thankfully not - the 5V is just used for logic.

The 12V supply powers the stepper motors/heated bed/extruder heater - even the RGB lights are 12V.

Looking at this I should be able to get away with 500W if it's actually 500W and not just a sticker - even the CX500M has 38A on the 12V rail.

That's nearly double the 22A it's currently working with.
 

EsaT

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Habakkuk said:
Thankfully not - the 5V is just used for logic.

The 12V supply powers the stepper motors/heated bed/extruder heater - even the RGB lights are 12V.

Looking at this I should be able to get away with 500W if it's actually 500W and not just a sticker - even the CX500M has 38A on the 12V rail.
Click to expand...
Logic circuitry uses likely dozen or something like that watts.
And with that bundled group regulated archean fossil done cheaply cross load might make even that 5V vary.
I mean -5V rail was removed from ATX specification in 2003!


Corsair CX is standard cheap capacitor PSU, instead of quality PSU.
Also with group regulation it's not the best in keeping voltages stable during cross load.

Modern DC-DC PSUs are lot better for that with 3,3 and 5V made from 12V by smaller step down converters.
Bitfenix Formula is cheapest with quality capacitors.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=bitfenix+Formula
For some reason they use platform with actually current limited wire groups, but anyway single one of them no doubt gives more current than that crap.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Bitfenix/BF750F/4.html

For modular cabling Seasonic Focus Plus Gold is cheapest with quality capacitors. (and crazy level voltage regulation)
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/seas...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-05p-ss.html

I don't think any below 80+ Gold efficiency PSUs have DC-DC design and in fact there's only one 80+ Gold cheaper than Bitfenix Formula.
Cougar made by mediocre HEC with quaranteedly cheap capacitors.


Habakkuk said:
Oh geez I made the mistake of looking inside - I didn't know they actually got crusty.
Click to expand...
Where are those "nude" shots?:p
Or was everything buried in too much dust to distinguish anything?
Those tiny undersized parts of cheap craps could do that easily.


And what's with another few minute power cuts...
Guess I have to have flashlight nearby when going to shower.
 

Habakkuk

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I'll open it up after I've replaced it & check the replacement works :D

I'm looking forward to checking the soldering & the capacitor's voltage ratings.
 

EsaT

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Habakkuk

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Nice read - there were a few PSU's there missing over voltage/current protection - I expect this one to miss the OVP with it hitting +13.6V and not shutting down.

If a capacitor has failed, it'd explain the widely varying +12V ouput - unless it's a particularly bad design from the start (all bets are off)
 
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