extend wifi coverage + add cat5e connection

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my house has thick walls, no matter what wifi router i used, the coverage is always the same. i dont like power-line, so is this possible?

ASDL wifi router's ethernet port run cat5 cable to the Loft's WIFI router's wan port right?? do i need to disable DHCP on Loft's WIFI router?
 
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It'll work.

In the loft either use a dedicated access point or configure a router as one (which will include disabling DHCP).

If you're reconfiging a router you'd usually connect the two routers LAN to LAN and ignore the WAN port (but not always).
 
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thank you bremen,

ASDL router somehow its slightly cheaper than normal router. is it wise to use another ASDL router in the loft and config as a router. or asking for trouble?
 
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Configure the attic router as an access point. Exactly how will depend on the device, some routers have a dedicated access point mode you can select.

DHCP will only be running on the downstairs router and all devices will use it.

If the router you choose has an Ethernet WAN port you'll most likely not connect anything to it.

There's no reason why you should have any problems.
 
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On the subject of home plugs? Have you tried them? The signal will be better if you had multiple WiFi points. I bought an AV600 wifi tplink kit and have clear WiFi all over the house as I recently got virgin in and the router is right at the back of the house meaning I had to use something to increase coverage.
 
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My experience of homeplugs is that they simply don't work in the houses on our street due to the way they're wired up* (I've tried several sets in three houses).

So anyone looking at them would do well to try and borrow a set before buying anything.


*70's era with the basically all the sockets on a single ring as opposed to modern wiring where it's usually at minimum an upstairs and downstairs ring circuit, often with the kitchen sockets on a third.
 
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Why not just locate the AP in BR01 rather than the loft space? It removes a layer of ceiling between it and the clients. Also if you're bothering to do this then buy actual decent AP's, not ADSL routers - a 2.4Ghz Unifi AP or AP LR kit will be inexpensive on the bay of thieves and is easily feeling mounted (LED can be turned off via the web interface). Why 2.4Ghz? Because with thicker walls 2.4Ghz achieves better penetration than 5Ghz and as you state ADSL router, you'll be WAN limited anyway even if you go VDSL.

Powerline can be OK, but it does vary from property to property, it's always going to be inferior to having a 5e run. In general stick to a master socket and not a spur, an extension plugged into one of the dual sockets is fine, plugging the PL kit into an extension is not fine, same with surge protection - don't do it. Try and avoid plugging it directly next to something that is likely to cause noise/spikes like a fridge/freezer, that's not a great idea.
 
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Why not just locate the AP in BR01 rather than the loft space? It removes a layer of ceiling between it and the clients. Also if you're bothering to do this then buy actual decent AP's, not ADSL routers - a 2.4Ghz Unifi AP or AP LR kit will be inexpensive on the bay of thieves and is easily feeling mounted (LED can be turned off via the web interface). Why 2.4Ghz? Because with thicker walls 2.4Ghz achieves better penetration than 5Ghz and as you state ADSL router, you'll be WAN limited anyway even if you go VDSL.

All true, but more complicated to implement.

The OP's original plan makes good use of the 'AP' having multiple Ethernet ports to keep things simple.

With a single port AP such as the AP-LR you suggest you're going to need more wiring and probably a switch as well.
 
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All true, but more complicated to implement.

The OP's original plan makes good use of the 'AP' having multiple Ethernet ports to keep things simple.

With a single port AP such as the AP-LR you suggest you're going to need more wiring and probably a switch as well.

It’s £45ish for the AC version on eBay as a BIN with pass through and about the same for an Unifi AP + switch, if you’re going to spend £30+ on a crappy router and pull cables in the loft, i’d suggest the extra £15 isn’t insurmountable for most people and will give a vastly superior result.
 
Soldato
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Again all true.

I was merely pointing out that the AP you were suggesting in your earlier post would have added complications to the OP’s very simple plan.
 
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hi guys, i've purchased a TP-LINK Archer C9 AC1900 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Cable Router.

the new secondary router has internet connection and the web setup page is working automatically when i use a ethernet cable from first router to secondary router's wan/internet port using DHCIP server.

i believe it is better to disable DHCIP server on the secondary router right???

so i've disabled DHCIP server on the secondary router. then i use a ethernet cable from first router to secondary router's lan port. now i get internet connection but i no longer have access to secondary router's web setup page. why??
 
Soldato
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The subnets on the two routers need to match (e.g. 192.168.0.n on both).
You then need to assign a managment IP on the second router that doesn't clash with anything else on the network.

Some guidance here that probably applies https://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-1199.html.

If you Google 'router as access point' they'll be loads of guides. It has also been covered in detail on this forum numerous times.
 
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