Oak worktop finishing

Soldato
Joined
30 Dec 2004
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London
Hi,

Recently got some oak, achieved a smooth finish. Put on 3 coats of danish oil, waiting around 8 hours between coats. Coming up to the fourth coat (and final I think) but I've noticed that some of the areas in the wood are patchy... or a better way to describe it would be the surrounding areas have absorbed the oil and the patches haven't.

See the picture below...

xPTALwP.jpg

What can I do to make these patches also have that satin finish like the rest of the worktop has?

Thanks!
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
30 Dec 2004
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London
How did you apply the oil? Wire wool or rag or ??

Wire wool is my preference, bit more work but knocks back any surface finish imperfections.

Lint free cloth... previously sanded to 320 grit.

Might be worth doing a light sand between coats.

Wire wool would be my choice, that's what I used to use on my gun stocks.

You think wet sanding (with the oil) with 600 grit would do anything?

Just a bit confused as to why it has done it, surface was very smooth. Is this a surface not flat issue or?

On the fence now whether to leave it like it is. Just would've been so much better for a uniform satin look.
 
Soldato
Joined
13 May 2003
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I'm unfamiliar with the application and finish of Danish oil just about to use it for the first time on a restoration of a hand tool.

Would it be best to give it longer to dry? I wonder if differences in the grain are just affecting it's absorption properties. It might be after an extended dry and a buff the surface evens out.
 
Joined
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Wilds of suffolk
Basically what you are doing is soaking the oil into the grain, the areas you show are clearly different grain
Your having the same effect as adding water at the moment, the grain of the wood is expanding back to its original point

I have similar, what you can do is apply with a brush so its much thicker, then buff it off

Over time with more coats it will start to really fill the imperfections

if you look at the photos in the below you will see that some "imperfection" is normal, just less obvious
But consider the amount of oil they are saying they are using.
http://danish-oil.com/how-to-apply-danish-oil/
 
Tea Drinker
Don
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Don't use wire wool it'll make a right mess.

All you have is different grains and ends of grains. Not a great deal you can do apart from locally apply lots of coats and maybe rub down them apply one full coat to all of it.

All my worktops are oak with danish oil. Love them
 
Associate
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11 Jul 2017
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Danish Oil is not actually as simple as it seems to apply. You actually need a lot of oil. You basically soak the floor, keep on adding it until it stops absorbing it. Then wipe off the excess and leave it to dry and if necessary repeat 24 hours later.
Yours looks OK you just need to concentrate on the flat areas. Let the oil stand on those flat bits until it stops absorbing oil then just remove the excess with a rag.
Just for reference, in future, I would use something like Osmo Oil. It's easier to apply ~ you apply it the way you would think you apply it!! Two sparing coats and that's it. It seems very expensive but it's not. One can goes a very long way.
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Feb 2009
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3,605
Before applying, if fresh untreated oak, you should wipe the wood with a damp cloth, wait for the grains to come up, sand that back then apply the oil. On that if just as more, sand lightly and add more
 
Soldato
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8,331
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England
Maccapaccas advice is spot on. Also, do not use wire wool (or anything ferrous) on oak or anything else with a high tannin content as it will lead to blackening (ebonizing) of the wood, unless that's what you're after.
 
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