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The RX Vega 64 Owners Thread

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Soldato
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Struggling to get over 7800 with my Nitro 64, Ryzen 1700 @ 3.9 and 3200mhz ram on the Timespy benchmark, probably need to tighten my ram timings, but the score seems kinda low to me?

I'm using Panos settings from this thread, in a Phanteks Enthoo Primo case with a ton of airflow.

Any thoughts?

7800 is ok if you do not push the HBM to 1100+ while keeping the card cool with undervolting.
 
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7800 is ok if you do not push the HBM to 1100+ while keeping the card cool with undervolting.

AHH ok, I'm guessing going for 1100+ on HBM is going to result in a ton of noise from the cooler, I'm happy with the noise at the moment, it's low enough to not be an issue, any louder will be annoying
 
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Just got done installing mine, I'll pop up some pictures for the roll of honour. But for now, not a bad jump in performance I think :)

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AHH ok, I'm guessing going for 1100+ on HBM is going to result in a ton of noise from the cooler, I'm happy with the noise at the moment, it's low enough to not be an issue, any louder will be annoying
No, will not add any noise. Almost all Vega 64's will do 1100Mhz HBM with ease and allows for a 10%+ performance increase for free.
 
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Since it appears to be just a driver issue, I can live with it, thanks guys.

Also, this is my official submission to join the owners club :D Quite pleased with the card, I've set the core to 1000mV and it holds ~1520MHz with HBM at 1000MHz. It's quite silent and runs below 70c

New 18.11.2 drivers are out fixing the issue.
 
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No, will not add any noise. Almost all Vega 64's will do 1100Mhz HBM with ease and allows for a 10%+ performance increase for free.

Thanks Matt, i tried 1100 with 1000mv on the HBM and it crashed during 3D Mark, i guess i need to raise the voltage on the HBM to get 1100? any suggestions of how high is safe?
 
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Leave the HBM voltage at 950. Try increasing the P6-P7 core voltages might make the memory stable.
Leaving the HBM voltage at 950mv did cause some instability when at 1750MHz core and 1180MHz HBM for me, bumping it up to 1000 and eventually 1100mv did stabilise it though. With the core at 1250mv I should add. For some reason setting anything higher than about 1760MHz on my core will cause it to just hard reset.
 
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Thanks for the input guys, but as I mentioned it is not worth for me to replace the whole heatsink, or go custom watercooling in order to fix noisy fan. I have no issues with temperatures, and it is not the speed of the fan which makes the racket. Fan is noisy even at 900rpm, which is very low speed. There might be something wrong with the fan bearings. The card stays cool enough with fan spinning at 945rpm, if it managed to keep that speed constant and not go over it. I have set max temp limit to the maximum allowed on the drivers and card is at 1612Mhz while HBM is at stock.
This card will be replaced as soon as AMD get their chickens in the row in GPU department, and I don't game too much anyways nowadays.
I was just thinking would the card freak out if I cut off the stock fan, and attached some similar spec aftermarket fan?
 
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I was just thinking would the card freak out if I cut off the stock fan, and attached some similar spec aftermarket fan?

I swapped out the radiator fan on my Vega64 LC for a quieter one as the supplied one had bad bearing grind.
Was an interesting exercise, but Gentle Typhoon on there is very very quiet :)
 
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I swapped out the radiator fan on my Vega64 LC for a quieter one as the supplied one had bad bearing grind.
Was an interesting exercise, but Gentle Typhoon on there is very very quiet :)

But the cable is inside of the sleeve, isn't it, and connector is inside of the card shroud.
 
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Can anyone offer me some advice. My card should arrive today and I was wondering about the 2 x 8pin, my current card only uses one but the cable from the psu has two on it, is it sufficient to use the the one cable or should I plug another pcie cable in? the psu is a corsir HX750w if it helps. Cheers.
 
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But the cable is inside of the sleeve, isn't it, and connector is inside of the card shroud.

On the LC the power cables for the fan were attached to the water flow pipe by cable ties. This had to be cut.
Once removing the shroud I could then remove the power cable from the board and replace it the fan.
The problem I found was that the connector was at the tail end of the card, and i had to loop it through various components whilst keeping enough slack on it.
What I didn't want to do was drill a new hole for it as the card looks so damned sexy!
 
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On the LC the power cables for the fan were attached to the water flow pipe by cable ties. This had to be cut.
Once removing the shroud I could then remove the power cable from the board and replace it the fan.
The problem I found was that the connector was at the tail end of the card, and i had to loop it through various components whilst keeping enough slack on it.
What I didn't want to do was drill a new hole for it as the card looks so damned sexy!

Ill have to look into it. I somehow thought mine had cable inside the sleeve. Thanks
 
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