Road Cycling

Soldato
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Looking into these Carbon ebay wheels that I see everyone raving about on here, currently have a set of oval concepts which came with the back and assume they're pretty heavy but also have a trainer tyre fitted for zwift so would be nice to just swap wheels rather than the tyre etc.

What's the benefit with the larger depth? Am I really likely to notice that much of a difference of the weight/stiffness? Mine are currentyl Oval Concepts 324 Disc wheels.

My Fuji has disc brakes too but I imagine I can find a set which will take discs.
 
Soldato
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I looked at them but in the end decided to go with the lightweight Hunt wheels. The eBay disc wheels at the time were as heavy as my giant wheels I wanted to replace.

I just wanted to climb faster really and my Defy needed to loose weight lol
 
Soldato
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Mega total considering your comments, but then you've always done well to regularly ride out. For most of us those kinda rides are 25-40 miles, for you they tend to be 50-60! As demonstrated by your Eddington! ;)
I could probably count on one hand the number of rides I did less than 20 miles. One was Richmond Park TT and two MTB rides. I don't commute though so that's kind of expected as it's rare I would go out for less than an hour.

I actually wouldn't mind trying out the zwift craze a bit but realistically I don't have the space to bother setting up a turbo constantly. New housing required :)
 
Soldato
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vv-infographic.png


Happy New Year OcUK cycling friends.
Your infographics above inspired me to check mine but I was a bit worried it would be terrible as I only started back riding in June. Not too bad considering!
 
Soldato
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Ok guys, dumb question time!

I've signed up for a couple of very hilly sportives in the summer and am planning on running a larger 11-32 cassette for them. The rest of the time I'll be wanting to use my normal 11-28 one. I've got a long cage rear derailleur on the bike, but will obviously need to adjust the chain length when swapping. Is it possible to have two quick links on the same chain? It would make altering the length each time a much less fiddly job...
 
Soldato
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it's possible to do that, but there's no actual *need* to shorten a chain when you're going between two cassettes with the same bottom sprocket

the smallest possible number of teeth, and therefore the most slack in the chain (which is why you might need a shorter chain) remains the same because they have the same bottom sprocket
 
Soldato
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Seems like unnecessary faff to swap between the 11-32 and 11-28 regularly. What benefit would you gain from swapping back to the 11-28 for flatter terrain? I get that the jump between the gears in cadence changes but it's not unmanageable.
 
Soldato
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they're different ratios, but it looks like they've tried pretty hard to minimize lumpy gaps

the 11-32 looks like a 10 speed 11-28 with a bailout gear added
 
Soldato
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Seems like unnecessary faff to swap between the 11-32 and 11-28 regularly. What benefit would you gain from swapping back to the 11-28 for flatter terrain? I get that the jump between the gears in cadence changes but it's not unmanageable.

From trying the 11-32 last weekend I think there's one jump that's really noticeable, but you're right, I should be able to just deal with it. I might just suck it up and run 11-32 this Summer and then train like a beast for next year so I can climb things like Park Rash without the aid of a bailout gear :D
 
Soldato
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From trying the 11-32 last weekend I think there's one jump that's really noticeable, but you're right, I should be able to just deal with it. I might just suck it up and run 11-32 this Summer and then train like a beast for next year so I can climb things like Park Rash without the aid of a bailout gear :D

I've dragged my sorry ass up and over Park Rash on a 11-30 (with a 54/30 up front).

Which sportives are you doing?
 
Soldato
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Ok guys, dumb question time!

I've signed up for a couple of very hilly sportives in the summer and am planning on running a larger 11-32 cassette for them. The rest of the time I'll be wanting to use my normal 11-28 one. I've got a long cage rear derailleur on the bike, but will obviously need to adjust the chain length when swapping. Is it possible to have two quick links on the same chain? It would make altering the length each time a much less fiddly job...

I opted for the 11-30 cassette to save hassle in 2018. The chain length for that didn't need any adjusting for me :)

The gearing is identical apart from the biggest 3 gears which I like.
 
Soldato
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I've dragged my sorry ass up and over Park Rash on a 11-30 (with a 54/30 up front).

Which sportives are you doing?

I'm doing The Struggle: Dales and am kind of signed up to Coast to Coast in a Day. I'm Zwifting hard at the moment and am going to have to really up the mileage to have a chance of finishing either!

A 54/30 or a 50/34? :)

I've got a 52/36 on the front at the moment, maybe changing the small chain-ring instead would be a less faffy option.
 
Soldato
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Long shot but if anyone is selling mint condition P1S pedals then I could be tempted. I would go for the traditional LH crank based solution but my rear brake is aero/BB mounted so that's a no no.

If nothing 2nd hand then might just take the hit on new - seem to pop up at £360 ish here and there.
 
Soldato
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Looking into these Carbon ebay wheels that I see everyone raving about on here, currently have a set of oval concepts which came with the back and assume they're pretty heavy but also have a trainer tyre fitted for zwift so would be nice to just swap wheels rather than the tyre etc.

What's the benefit with the larger depth? Am I really likely to notice that much of a difference of the weight/stiffness? Mine are currentyl Oval Concepts 324 Disc wheels.

My Fuji has disc brakes too but I imagine I can find a set which will take discs.
Unsure what you're specifically asking about deeper rims apart from the obvious... More depth = more aero = faster! :cool:

The less obvious... Aero wheels (even when carbon) can work out heavier than lower profile alloys. Deeper rims are known to be stiffer which many people (& racers) prefer over more basic wheels but much of that can be offset by buying quality rims, hubs, spokes & built by a good builder (compared to off the shelf machine built factory wheels). Can't really see much about your Ovals. They look like standard alloy type wheels (nothing special) so all of the above would apply when going for a carbon, deeper wheelset. Providing you're spending on quality carbon (with the price tag!) then they may even be lighter. But don't count on it!

Personally I replaced the 'off the shelf' AXIS 4.0 disc wheels which came with my Specialized Diverge. For a wheelset on an RRP £2500 105 bike they where/are rubbish. I changed them for some ~£640 Zipp 30 course. The difference is pretty noticeable even if the weight saving was only marginal. They roll fantastically easily (premium hubs/bearings) and are quite a lot stiffer (better built/better spokes/less flex) so climb/sprint better. Being a much wider internal dimension rim probably made the most amount of difference for me - the same tyres on them as the AXIS they where much more comfortable, being able to run lower pressures with no real loss in feel or speed. Now I've gone wider (32mm) tyres again (and tubeless!) they're even more comfortable! If I was to do it again, I would probably look at the Hunt Aero Wide as a much cheaper alternative after hearing so many good things about them. So they would probably be my recommendation (even though I've never ridden them)!

I bought my Zipp's as a 'do it all' wheelset as a direct replacement to the AXIS so I only have 1 wheelset. Part of me does want a lightweight 'summer' carbon set of hoops, but I would probably also look to go aero/deeper at the same time too. Maybe stick with Zipp and go with a 303 front, 404 rear (if I where to win the lottery!) :D

I looked at them but in the end decided to go with the lightweight Hunt wheels. The eBay disc wheels at the time were as heavy as my giant wheels I wanted to replace.

I just wanted to climb faster really and my Defy needed to loose weight lol
Giant wheels are gash anyway. The PR2 which came on my Defy 1 2015 where sub-standard to the cheapy £100 Campagnolo Khamsin I replaced them with! Still around 11kg with them fitted (alloy frame) but switching them out to Shimano RS81 dropped the weight to around 10kg, made it feel much more lively/climbing worthy. Although not strictly 'lightweight'!

Happy New Year OcUK cycling friends.
Your infographics above inspired me to check mine but I was a bit worried it would be terrible as I only started back riding in June. Not too bad considering!
Good stuff! You did well with such a quick turnaround. Just goes to show that it takes a long time to 'de-train' so when you picked up training again you didn't have to do as much work as expected! Or maybe it's just your natural ability! ;)

Ok guys, dumb question time!

I've signed up for a couple of very hilly sportives in the summer and am planning on running a larger 11-32 cassette for them. The rest of the time I'll be wanting to use my normal 11-28 one. I've got a long cage rear derailleur on the bike, but will obviously need to adjust the chain length when swapping. Is it possible to have two quick links on the same chain? It would make altering the length each time a much less fiddly job...
As mentioned above - no need to adjust length. But also to answer - no problem with running 2 quick links on the same chain! Done it myself previously!

Also once you've ridden a 32t you really won't go back to 28t. Not if you have hills around you and like to challenge yourself on the steeper slopes! Although as mentioned, changing crankset may also benefit. Although I hunt down some steep stuff I don't consider changing my 52/36 (previously rode 50/34 with 32t cassettes) as there's many flat fast routes I also ride I need the 52 for...

Long shot but if anyone is selling mint condition P1S pedals then I could be tempted. I would go for the traditional LH crank based solution but my rear brake is aero/BB mounted so that's a no no.

If nothing 2nd hand then might just take the hit on new - seem to pop up at £360 ish here and there.
Will keep an eye out. Is clearance really that tight with the crank/chainstay?! I'd be smacking my heels on the frame if it was me #duckfeet lol

You should keep it like that and use it as a really expensive balance bike :D
:D:D:D

My 2018 Strava total. Devilish! Wasnt planned to do that number of rides!
V2s85hl.jpg

EDIT: WTF. My Veloviewer total is different. 4031 miles. 231 hrs & 152,240 ft elevation. So my Strava is missing a 30 mile, 2 hour & 1896ft ride! Considering Veloviewer is populated from Strava I don't quite understand... :confused::eek::o
 
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Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
20,701
Location
England
Will keep an eye out. Is clearance really that tight with the crank/chainstay?! I'd be smacking my heels on the frame if it was me #duckfeet lol

It's not the frame that's the issue - it's the rear brake. The power pod on the inside of a left hand crank solution (stages/4iiii etc) fouls the rear brake, because the rear brake is BB mounted rather than seat stay mounted. Bit of a pain, there are solutions (change the rear brake to a TRP), but it's a bit of a faff. Easier solution is just to opt for pedals solution instead.
 
Soldato
Joined
29 Sep 2010
Posts
5,707
Unsure what you're specifically asking about deeper rims apart from the obvious... More depth = more aero = faster! :cool:

The less obvious... Aero wheels (even when carbon) can work out heavier than lower profile alloys. Deeper rims are known to be stiffer which many people (& racers) prefer over more basic wheels but much of that can be offset by buying quality rims, hubs, spokes & built by a good builder (compared to off the shelf machine built factory wheels). Can't really see much about your Ovals. They look like standard alloy type wheels (nothing special) so all of the above would apply when going for a carbon, deeper wheelset. Providing you're spending on quality carbon (with the price tag!) then they may even be lighter. But don't count on it!

Personally I replaced the 'off the shelf' AXIS 4.0 disc wheels which came with my Specialized Diverge. For a wheelset on an RRP £2500 105 bike they where/are rubbish. I changed them for some ~£640 Zipp 30 course. The difference is pretty noticeable even if the weight saving was only marginal. They roll fantastically easily (premium hubs/bearings) and are quite a lot stiffer (better built/better spokes/less flex) so climb/sprint better. Being a much wider internal dimension rim probably made the most amount of difference for me - the same tyres on them as the AXIS they where much more comfortable, being able to run lower pressures with no real loss in feel or speed. Now I've gone wider (32mm) tyres again (and tubeless!) they're even more comfortable! If I was to do it again, I would probably look at the Hunt Aero Wide as a much cheaper alternative after hearing so many good things about them. So they would probably be my recommendation (even though I've never ridden them)!

I bought my Zipp's as a 'do it all' wheelset as a direct replacement to the AXIS so I only have 1 wheelset. Part of me does want a lightweight 'summer' carbon set of hoops, but I would probably also look to go aero/deeper at the same time too. Maybe stick with Zipp and go with a 303 front, 404 rear (if I where to win the lottery!) :D
Fair enough makes sense :) Going to look into this in more detail when I finish work. might wait for a 15% ebay code and pull the trigger
 
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