I'm absolutely in love with my new P600s, I seem to finally have my system working the way I want it but I'm not overly happy with my temps. My 360mm Silent loop AIO just seems to me to be barely hanging on with my 5ghz overclock. I also have always wanted to have a go at a custom loop!
I'm wanting to use soft tubing, long term I'm wanting to water cool both my cpu and gpu, but that will be the next time I upgrade as I don't think you can get the water block for my 1080ti any more.
Basically I'll need everything, I know this can get hella expensive and am not wanting all the most expensive things.
I don't have a set budget, I'll either be buying things gradually or in full later on in the year. I just want a plan in my mind.
Hi got most of mine used/secondhand saved a small fortune!
But what case do you have?
I guess AIO 360 is in the roof?
mine is an EK (think?) XTX360 60mm thick rad.have an XSPC Spin res.D% pump with EK Top with XSPC flexy tubing 1/2" went with compression fittings had to custom cut rad/grill in as just a flat lid!
Have a XSPC Raystorm block was pretty easy to do so just spend a while as you do thinking ahead with likes of plumbing routing allowing some slack if like mine can take lid off plus if have a bay res so can get it out of case front just enough as to take out complete need to remove other 5.25's then pull it out then turn so can get it back in case to remove.
Have my fans on push there noctura NFP12's i just run at one speed of a molex
Pumps at bottom has a short piece of tubing off other port with a drain tap.
You thinking of a bay res or tube type inside case. which pump can fit onto base or on it's own else where.
My other case thinking of getting a tube type 400mm ish so sits up against drive bays and goes to top.
Taking most of mine out this week as need to modd mobo tray with grommets for cables as changing psu with short ar8sed cables! so have to make runs short as.
going to clean loop out and refill and have some leds to replace EK/XSPC crap ones that never work.
Can put some pictures up if you like?
You can still get the water block for 1080 TI just have a sniff around as came across some other day.
System i'd like to build or add in is a Peltier Effect add current cools it more
Ha found out what P600 is says can get a 420 in there! how much headroom is there though above important parts on mobo and roof? you could also get one in the front looking at pictures bit of a mixed mind on that though as drawing warmed air in? mind if fans are decent soon cools it by act of air volume chill.
Just had a read up on OC HQ can get a 360 in the roof but only around 40mm! as 25mm for fans to make 65mm and front takes 95mm 420 so could even get a Nexxus monsta 420 80mm rad!
Maybe just go for it 360 in the front. Every case I've used says you can have 360mm rad at 60mm thickness in front. 360mm rad 60mm thickness in top. But they never say you can have 360mm rad 60mm thickness in front and in top at the same time. Them numbers are just examples but the point is they tell you the max that will fit in each location but not if you out others in other locations.
I've just finished an Evolv-X build, and since the P600S is internally identical:
Front RAD: I would go for a 30-35mm 420 Rad with triple 140mm fans. The rationale is simply the larger surface area allows a slimmer radiator (or the same depth rad gives more cooling). In addition, the 140mm fans run slower for the same air flow, although it's minor, I find my 140mm builds run @ 400rpm for silent normal use, and my 120mm builds run around 550-600RPM for similar performance. You can go for a 360 based on availability and the fact more tend to fit in the space envelope (plus might be more secondhand) but having two rigs side by side, one with a 360mm front, one with a 420mm front rad, I'm sold on the 140mm width rads/fans now. I would be careful going too fat, you sometimes need push/pull fans to get the air flow and you can end up noisier for normal running even if you end up with more capacity when everything is cranked up and noise isn't a concern.
Top RAD: Later on you can then fit a 280 Rad to the top (X-Flow Rads will allow possible neater routing between Rads). Again, the rationale is a 280 slim rad will allow more room around the motherboard (not entirely necessary bit I find this easier).
Pump/Res Combo: The most popular, keep an eye on the MM. I got a secondhand D5 EK 140 combo (PWM). The only advice is whatever you get, make sure it's PWM controlled! That allows silence in normal use and can then ramp up when you want to.
Fans: I really rate the corsair ML140's (Non pro), these are £30 a pair, it's worth using them on both Rad and as Case fans.
Fittings: honestly, the cheaper XSPC compression fittings are lovely, I have used 30 or 40 lately and not had a single issue, easy to tighten (with a coin!) and they just don't leak, for their price I would heartily recommend them.
Tubing: Mayhems Ultra-clear is good, I went with 13mm/10mm (OD/ID) to match the fittings and found it a breeze.
Draining: you will need a few extra compression fittings, a t-piece and a drain valve for this, although draining is never easy.
Water-block: anything really will do as long as it's for your socket.
RGB: if you care then I'd go for RGB (even if you want a single colour, no harm in being able to change it), ideally these days you want ARGB (Addressable RGB), and most companies will do this, I've found the EK blocks lately come with both strips (12v RGB or Addressable 5v RGB, you swap over the strip if you need to).
Controller: Whilst no doubt the Aquaero is the best of the best, I've found the corsair commander pro perfect for most jobs:
- Is still hardware controlled (so once configured you don't need the iCUE software or windows to be running for the profiles to work)
- It has 4 temp sensor inputs (comes with leads, but also accepts common 10K inline water temp sensors (I use 2 of those))
- It has 6 PWM fan ports (can double each one with a PWM Fan splitter for a few more)
- It has 2 ARGB lighting channels (Which with just a simple wiring converter cable has worked with the Phanteks Case LEDs and EK ARGB Strips perfectly)
- It's around £50, so very much good vfm compared to some.
Cost wise, you are very much better off looking for 2nd hand waterblocks/pump/res and even fans to be honest.
Rads don't tend to be so expensive, but as said above, 360's are popular and 120mm fans are slightly cheaper (usually), I just find the noise levels slightly higher but that's just me going for 'silence'.
The following build uses a 280m X-Flow and 420mm Normal Rad (Both 30mm Alphacool Nexxxos) in the Evolv-X (Identical to the P600s internally)
For draining, I actually have a gate valve directly screwed into the top Alphacool rad on the left (it has ports top and bottom), I then tip the case up so it's on the back, making this the lowest point in the case, and as that rad is X-Flow, it completely drains in seconds, similarly, in that orientation, it's easy to drain the other rad as both ports can then run the liquid down through the 280. The only improvement for that would be to have the 420mm rad with ports up top, but I did it this way for routing.
The Pump/Res took a bit of fiddling to mount as I wanted it 'low' in the case, normal mounting would be half way up the case.
I'm wanting to use soft tubing, long term I'm wanting to water cool both my cpu and gpu, but that will be the next time I upgrade as I don't think you can get the water block for my 1080ti any more.
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