First Mini's in 20 years! C+C welcome!

Caporegime
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Northern England
Really like your style of painting. Only criticism is some of the models have visible mould lines and joints. Just a little bit more prep before painting will sort it!
 
Caporegime
Joined
23 Dec 2011
Posts
32,910
Location
Northern England
I guess because they are such large areas it works better, the curve maybe helped to lengthen the sponge dabs too.

Intrigued as to what your other stages for weathering are?.. Pray tell!

I'll use a couple of washes applied locally to simulate grease and oils. Exhausts either get a Matt black drybrush to simulate soot or I'll bronze, blue, purple, red them to look like heat distortion. Gun barrels too.
Then I'll use something like streaking grime to really dirty it up. Needs a good cost of varnish at several stages too in case you want to undo any of that.
 
OcUK Staff
OP
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Overclockers UK HQ
I'll use a couple of washes applied locally to simulate grease and oils. Exhausts either get a Matt black drybrush to simulate soot or I'll bronze, blue, purple, red them to look like heat distortion. Gun barrels too.
Then I'll use something like streaking grime to really dirty it up. Needs a good cost of varnish at several stages too in case you want to undo any of that.

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THANKS, now I've got hours of research and practice ahead!



Seriously, they sound like great ideas. Got any pics you can share?
 
Commissario
Joined
17 Oct 2002
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Panting like a fiend
Those look really good nik:)
They're probably better than most of my stuff, despite the fact i've been painting again on and off for the last 15 years:p


As has been said washes (nuln and agrax especially) can do a great job of simulating soot/oil/general greasy dirt on metals :)
I'm in the process of painting some Titanicus stuf and it's amazing the difference a coat of nuln then agrax can make to get metal looking dirty/greasy without a massive amount of effort.
 
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