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ripped capacitors off GPU

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So I lapped the heatsink to try reduce the temps but it's not helped so it must be the broken capacitors causing increased temps.

Question : do I need solder pads or can I just makeshift the connections with some solder? (surely it's the same difference)
 
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So I lapped the heatsink to try reduce the temps but it's not helped so it must be the broken capacitors causing increased temps.

Question : do I need solder pads or can I just makeshift the connections with some solder? (surely it's the same difference)

You got some pics? Really we need to see the damage to help.
 
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Question : do I need solder pads or can I just makeshift the connections with some solder? (surely it's the same difference)
Solder pads are kinda needed. The pcb connections are with small tracks running along the fibreglass – to electrically connect a component to these tracks you need a pad for the part’s legs to be soldered to. If the pad has been lifted/removed then you will need to solder to the track that went to that pad – probably meaning scraping away some solder-resit/conformal-coating that’s on top of the track.

So, erm, find the track that originally went to the pad, use a scalpel and v v carefully scrap away the coating without damaging the track, so you can solder to it. tin and solder as normal, and check with a multimeter against the other end of the track, at either a solder-pad or test point.

If that pad just goes to a via (small hole running through the fibreglass to connect one side of it to the other), then you’ve got more fun/problems…

Solder alone wont stick to the pcb board, so without a solder pad or track, you've got a challenge... If you try "makeshift" and somehow create a massive solder-blob to bridge a gap where there used to be a pad, then it won't have the strength of the original pad and it probably will require so much heat from the soldering iron that you could goose something...
(has visions of solder being melted everywhere, accidentally bridging existing pads, damaging components, etc...).

finally - what anti-static protection are you using when handling this pcb?
 
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HRL

HRL

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Like the new one, immersion cooling.

Parts come out the liquid dry. Now if the unit was soundproof and affordable I’d probably buy one.
 
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No pics Vince sorry.

Solder pads are kinda needed. The pcb connections are with small tracks running along the fibreglass – to electrically connect a component to these tracks you need a pad for the part’s legs to be soldered to. If the pad has been lifted/removed then you will need to solder to the track that went to that pad – probably meaning scraping away some solder-resit/conformal-coating that’s on top of the track.

So, erm, find the track that originally went to the pad, use a scalpel and v v carefully scrap away the coating without damaging the track, so you can solder to it. tin and solder as normal, and check with a multimeter against the other end of the track, at either a solder-pad or test point.

If that pad just goes to a via (small hole running through the fibreglass to connect one side of it to the other), then you’ve got more fun/problems…

Solder alone wont stick to the pcb board, so without a solder pad or track, you've got a challenge... If you try "makeshift" and somehow create a massive solder-blob to bridge a gap where there used to be a pad, then it won't have the strength of the original pad and it probably will require so much heat from the soldering iron that you could goose something...
(has visions of solder being melted everywhere, accidentally bridging existing pads, damaging components, etc...).

finally - what anti-static protection are you using when handling this pcb?

You have just described what I read on this site earlier : http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/4-7-1.html , I think I can do that. I'll order some stuff when I can and make sure I take pics of the repair.

And I've not got any anti-static protection, I don't understand it. The boards been resting on my mousemat all day today while I lapped the heatsink.
 
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That second video with the 3M liquid is clever. Boils at 49c so perfect for cooling PC components.

It is, I was wondering if it lost liquid during the heat up & cool down stage or will it work like a closed loop in its real environment rather than as a demo at a show so I watched it again & listened more closely, The liquid's called Novac (not sure on spelling) & it's cycling through a rad that's out of sight round the back. It'll be interesting to see if any of the Youtube channels give it a go.
 
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In the video he states it has 16 graphics cards in it but he's not allowed to say which, I imagine someone will try & figure out what they are from the stills as we get to see both sides of the cards with the heatsinks off. Whoops it's a six month old video so likely old news now. :rolleyes:


I just come across & enjoyed watching this from watching that.

 
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You could have used electrically conductive glue to make the electrical connections, but then you run the risk shorting the components if you get sloppy with it. Keep the Bostic for component stress relief.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/9185002/


Is there a cheaper product from that shop that'll work?

Yes, there are cheaper products available from the bay, but you need to look at the spec sheet, as you don't want anything with too high a resistance when it's cured. Just look for electrically conductive adhesive, there are loads that come up.
 
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You can create some solder pads they don't need to be exactly where they were before, the difficulty will be in connecting them to the traces. I'd recommend just trying to find someone who knows what they're doing and has all of the right tools or like tyler says leave it be and hope it lasts.
 
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