Soldato
TinkerCAD or Fusion 360 ?
3d printing Show us your Prints.
- Thread starter Dazboots
- Start date
TinkerCAD or Fusion 360 ?
Don
Depends on what you mean.
For creating 3D models I'd start with TinkerCAD and then after 10 minutes once you've mastered that go to Fusion 360. Both are free for non-commercial use.
For controlling the printer and slicing then either Cura or PrusaSlicer. I have been a Cura user for ages but recently swapped to PrusaSlicer and find it better to use. As far as print quality is concerned they are very similar.
If you are going to be doing a lot of printing then get yourself a RaspberryPi and set it up with OctoPi. It makes the whole printing process seamless and means you can put the printer somewhere else in the house away from your computer.
For creating 3D models I'd start with TinkerCAD and then after 10 minutes once you've mastered that go to Fusion 360. Both are free for non-commercial use.
For controlling the printer and slicing then either Cura or PrusaSlicer. I have been a Cura user for ages but recently swapped to PrusaSlicer and find it better to use. As far as print quality is concerned they are very similar.
If you are going to be doing a lot of printing then get yourself a RaspberryPi and set it up with OctoPi. It makes the whole printing process seamless and means you can put the printer somewhere else in the house away from your computer.
Associate
What would you suggest is the recommended type for a beginner?
Associate
Welcome to world of tomorrow, lol.
You should check out the 3d printing thread over in the printers subforum.
So as for your questions, to my knowledge the Ender doesn't come with enough filament to do anything with, might have a few meters. I know the cr-10 comes with a small spool.
Filament, well I wouldn't buy ABS, or the high temp stuff. But PLA, PETg should be fine. Link below for some PLA.
So not sure what you mean by stepper motor and the direct drive upgrade. They are different things. I assume the stepper motor upgrade is for dual Z steppers, on a printer this size it isn't essential but something to look at later maybe.
The direct drive refers to the extruder, currently it's a Bowden setup, which mean the filament is pushed through a PTFE tube to the hot end. A direct drive is just that, it puts the extruder directly above the hot end, again not essential but something to look at later.
Maybe just get to know the process of printing first and see if you need any upgrades.
Feel free to post in the other thread if you need anything.
J.
Cheers for your reply mate
I had a quick look on your website, I think I'll get a roll off you after pay day, gives me time to get the machine and get it set up
Associate
So do you need more than 1 piece of software for 3D printing? 1 to make the piece and 1 for printing?
Cheers
Don
Yes. Cura / Slic3r / PrusaSlicer etc. just prepare the model and generate the gcode that the printer needs to print the thing. This is all you need if you're just planning to print stuff you have downloaded from Thingiverse etc.
If you want to actually build and design things yourself you need another piece of software such as Fusion 360.
If you want to actually build and design things yourself you need another piece of software such as Fusion 360.
Caporegime
Depends on the printer
Caporegime
No I was thinking more 3d modelling
Soldato
I would buy a roll of PLA, not very expensive, and not as toxic as ABS
Associate
Cheers, are they all toxic then? How can you avoid being "intoxicated" by the fumes? Just ventilation?
Soldato
Having your printer in well ventilated area is best, or if using things like ABS, people make boxes to go over them
Caporegime
It's ABS I think that's the worst lol, used to use the work one lots (all day) and you'd leave the room and only notice how bad it is when you come back in
More expensive printers have cases which also keep the temperature more regulated, but as said ventilation I guess.
Not sure what PLA and the likes are like
Associate
Cheers guys, maybe I'll make an enclosure in the future aswell then
Just looking at buying a first 3D Printer for making things a bit easier rather than having to rely on others etc... is the Creality Ender 3 a good place to start? I'm not going to be doing anything massive so don't want to go silly, but I'm curious to try something!
As with all budget 3d printers, it has good points and bad.
Good points are the price to build volume, community behind it and it's quick assembly.
Bad points are, limited firmware (Needs a bootloader, via an arduino to update via a PC), No auto bed leveling and although i've seen good prints from a stock printer, it benefits from some mods.
J.
Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Feb 2018
- Posts
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From the new members section.
Hi guys! My name is Josh and I am a 3D printing engineer from Poland. I have been doing 3D printing for five years now. This is not only my job, but also my main hobby.
I would like to share with you my last work.
At my work I need to create a meter-wide model of the Honda HA-420 HondaJet. To do this, I had scanned a small original metal model from the HONDA factory. Thus, I had obtained a 3D model in order to increase it proportionally and create a meter-wide model. I had printed parts of the final model on the 3D printer Hercules Strong 2017 and Picaso Designer X. For this I used ABS plastic from REC. I had processed all the seams on the model with solvents and stitched it up with a Myriwell RP100B 3D pen. After that, I processed the model with sandpaper and painted.
Also during the process I put a complete wiring system into the model.
I made a stand for the model on a SolidCraft CNC-6090 milling machine using 25 mm MDF, and then painted it.
I will be glad to answer any of your questions. What do you think about this work?
Soldato
Oooo, nice print.
Made this car as a gift to my grandfather. He is a real fan of the retro cars, especially Hotrod.
Highlights:
Printer Tronxy x3, HC19-carbon plastic, nozzle 0.4.
The height of the compressor layer, unit, valve covers, headlights, the grille is 0.15, and the rest is 0.3.
The nozzle temperature is 230 C.
Table — 80 C.
Blowing a minimum.
Free STL!
Was the excess easy to remove as have done a few intricate models but ended up breaking them when removing the support material
Soldato
Car looks awesome, good job
Soldato
Bagel slicer helper thingy, probably my most practical and used print 
