Tiling floor on first floor in old property?

Soldato
Joined
31 May 2005
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Nottingham
Hello.

In the middle of getting a new bathroom fitted, everything ripped out and starting from new.

The property is a 1900'ish semi.

I have been told that floor tiling in such an old property is not wise as owing to movement on the first floor, joists running the full length of property etc, it is likely cracks will appear (not in the tile, in the grout) after a short period and a click-lock wooden floor system would be preferred.

Are they pulling my chain (pardon the pun) or is there merit in what they say?

Thanks.
 
Associate
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28 Sep 2003
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Loughborough
It depends if they can do something to sort the floor, i.e lay board etc on top and then tile on that. We have had 2 bathrooms in the same age house tiled by 2 different tilers. One of them is fine the other not.
 
Associate
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Walsall
We had the same dilemma, in the end just went for a luxury vinyl tile on a plywood floor, its also warmer than tiles so no need for under floor heating
 
Soldato
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Here and There...
We had the same dilemma, in the end just went for a luxury vinyl tile on a plywood floor, its also warmer than tiles so no need for under floor heating
I would go with this, tiles unless heated are horrible and in an old house you often need to do significant work to beef up the floor before tiles can go down.
 
Soldato
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13 Jun 2009
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My own head
Mapei renovation screed. Ditra. No cracks.

Probably would want to board the floor before though.

Did this in kitchen (20sqm) on first floor, no issues a year on. Just need to research the materials and make sure they're suitable for wood substrate and follow manufacturer advice.

Plywood, joints sealed with mortar then all prepped with primer g. Around 16 bags of self leveller over the top and then ditra.

Not cheap mind you, floor prep for tile alone cost £500 or so without labour.
 
Soldato
Joined
13 Feb 2012
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Had our bathroom done now for 6 years, house is 1950's built so far from young, ditra matting laid first then tiled on. No cracks, and the house does show signs of movement.
 
Soldato
Joined
13 Jan 2004
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20,946
For a proper job you'd measure and calculate deflection along with other considerations such as joint centres etc.

Bottom line is you need to bolster the existing joists, which could include sister boards or noggins and then establish a firm subfloor.

WPB/Marine grade ply of at least 18mm and preferably 24mm. Glued and screwed. Don't skimp!

Seal and Prime the now laid timber subfloor. Establish dams and seal other areas of potential leakage and pour a suitable SLC (Self leveling compound) spike roll/trowel out as needed.

Using a suitable thinset adhesive install an anti fracture or uncoupling membrane. Ditra mat is the go to product.

Tile.

It's feasible... Just need to do it right.
 
Associate
Joined
1 Aug 2009
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There is a product called believe it or not - NO MORE PLY I use it all the time. It comes in 2 thicknesses 6 and 12mm you glue it and screw it down and never had a problem
Makes a fair bit of dust when cut, that is the only drawback
 
Soldato
Joined
13 Jun 2009
Posts
4,230
Location
My own head
For a proper job you'd measure and calculate deflection along with other considerations such as joint centres etc.

Bottom line is you need to bolster the existing joists, which could include sister boards or noggins and then establish a firm subfloor.

WPB/Marine grade ply of at least 18mm and preferably 24mm. Glued and screwed. Don't skimp!

Seal and Prime the now laid timber subfloor. Establish dams and seal other areas of potential leakage and pour a suitable SLC (Self leveling compound) spike roll/trowel out as needed.

Using a suitable thinset adhesive install an anti fracture or uncoupling membrane. Ditra mat is the go to product.

Tile.

It's feasible... Just need to do it right.

This, is pretty much the way to do it. I did the same, less marine ply as that's a bit overkill - WBP is more than fine you just need to make sure you prep it properly.

Make sure you cost this into tiles, this subfloor prep for 25sqm without labour cost me about £800. If you're laying onto ply, you need suitable SLC, Mapei Ultraplan is fab.
 
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