Soldato
Ahh, I have an Asda a few miles from me, so I used that and got free. I'm fine with that I guess.
Anybody have any input on this please?
A number of people recommend to not use swiss yellows even though they spec for carbon. They marked my old giant rims. I personally wouldn't use them again on carbon rims. Some manufacturers void warranty if the wrong pads are used that they don't approve. There's nothing wrong with the performance of them however. It's not like they'll expose the weave or anything, but I think the general consensus is they're a bit aggressive if you want to keep the brake track in really good shape long term.
Yeah I think a lot of people complain they mark their brake tracks making them yellow and as you say some manufacturers void the warranty because of it as they usually aren't an approved brake block (they are for Zipp wheels). I'm about to replace my Zipp Tangente blocks for some Swissstop Flash Pro Black Prince (what a crap name!)
A number of people recommend to not use swiss yellows even though they spec for carbon. They marked my old giant rims. I personally wouldn't use them again on carbon rims. Some manufacturers void warranty if the wrong pads are used that they don't approve. There's nothing wrong with the performance of them however. It's not like they'll expose the weave or anything, but I think the general consensus is they're a bit aggressive if you want to keep the brake track in really good shape long term.
Ok cheers guys. The wheels aren't anything fancy so not too worried if they're just going to leave some marks, I was a little worried I'd fried the pads or something and was meant to bed them in... The performance is good though, is it normal for them to squeal as they warm up?
Yeah, when the pads get hot they squeal quite loudly on carbon rims. Its quite normal
Ok thanks.
Can I get them too hot?
I don't drag them, and on longer descents I alternate between front and back to let them cool a bit.
Oh cool, I assumed it was GoPro! How do you find the battery of the YI? My VIRB is still going strong but rubber door is about as bad as yours got. Also on my 4th battery now and struggling to get hold of replacements. Still, for a £94 camera bought in December 2014 it's served me VERY well!Filmed from my YI 4k. Chase is about 20-30mph. I've not got power. I didn't realise we were gonna chase the second time but I can't sprint for toffee anyway hence the gap opening up but my mate did 580w for 30s from the corner there, peaking around 900w. He's probably capable of a fair bit more. I caught up though at least
Good to hear and glad to hear about the ROAM's rerouting seemingly working well. I need to get out with my ELEMNT following a route and test it as it's a long time since I did (or a long time since I went wrong and got 'told off')I did a local Sportive on Sunday, 75 miles but the organisers had to make a couple of changes so said it was 77 - I did 82... It was very windy and at times not much fun but with a mate we pressed on and he hit his longest ride thus far so was well worth it.<snip>
I know of 2 guys who've cooked and blown carbon rims on descents around here. One was a Prime/some other Wiggle brand which could equally have just been a fault in the rim as it wasn't a long descent, just a sharp one (descending this). The other was a Mavic (I think) which got cooked on Gospel Pass north side (probably one of the few places long enough with steep pitches to do it). And that's just the two I know of from my local area (Hereford). I know of/have spotted 2 others cooked on european descents. One was even the guy who trashed his Prime wheel, so quite possible his descending technique isn't that great!Im sure you can in the Alps on some long decents but not on anything in the UK
Which picture, or both? Not 'normal' for 2k miles. The top one showing threads off the side of the middle tread looks like it's been scrubbed. Similar to how a tread looks if it's been worn through after being locked up. The lower one could be the same, it just hasn't worn through as much/far and appears to be both sides of the main tread.After some opinions on tyre wear pattern - is this normal ? ... maybe 2k miles
- finally retired my rear pro 4 last night, have not had any punctures and central rolling rim still has life , but sidewall looking like a wet liability.
I don't knowingly cycle in ruts, but - I don't know - maybe the few times bike falls into one it does disproportionate damage. ?
[interesting site on rolling resistances https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/michelin-pro-4-endurance-v2-2015]
Hadn't heard of avios. Worth it?Can earn avios with them though. Have you tried CRC?
It's not great, to the point I miss the odd incident as I can't be bothered to stop and change the battery. 1h40m generally at 1080p 48fps. Not horrific but not great. Virb was near enough 2.5 hours which covered near enough most of my riding, it's rare I do a ride below 1h40m so generally have to stop and change the battery. 30s job but I often can't be bothered. Quality is good though when the camera is kept stable (i've filled the case with a sponge recently to take out a lot of the road buzz and vibration). Ideally a GoPro session that lasts 3 hours would be perfect but not aware of one...Oh cool, I assumed it was GoPro! How do you find the battery of the YI? My VIRB is still going strong but rubber door is about as bad as yours got. Also on my 4th battery now and struggling to get hold of replacements. Still, for a £94 camera bought in December 2014 it's served me VERY well!
All good info, thanks. Battery life and reliability is what's kept me on the VIRB just quite gutted the V2 changed so much as the orientation and shape of this original V1 is really preferable for cycling. I realise it's an 'Action Camera' so they went the same orientation route as GoPro for helmet and chest mounting, but still damn annoying! I came close to going the Session route, really for the size but 1080p would be nice (as I'm only running 720p on my VIRB for increased performance/battery life). But when they got Discontinued that really ruled them out of having a V2+ with increased battery life. Real shame as think that size and format is superb - able to fit between some helmet vents & between saddle rails! Ideal for cycling!It's not great, to the point I miss the odd incident as I can't be bothered to stop and change the battery. 1h40m generally at 1080p 48fps. Not horrific but not great. Virb was near enough 2.5 hours which covered near enough most of my riding, it's rare I do a ride below 1h40m so generally have to stop and change the battery. 30s job but I often can't be bothered. Quality is good though when the camera is kept stable (i've filled the case with a sponge recently to take out a lot of the road buzz and vibration). Ideally a GoPro session that lasts 3 hours would be perfect but not aware of one...
I've also considered, can I waterproof a power bank and stick in in the stem. For the YI I wouldn't be able to access the charging port with the waterproof case but I could explore one of the cases which does allow charging port access and try to make it water resistant... Other option could just be a Drift Stealth 2 with some sort of aftermarket mount (their standard bike mount looks awfully big and bulky).
Awesome! Goodluck, P2 is kinda a benchmark within TT bikes through the years but the setup will really determine if its an upgrade over the Warp.New (second hand) bike time! After my Merida Warp 4 was nicked, a Cervelo P2 will be joining me in a couple of days!
Woohoo!
I want to know why because it's Friday & lols are always required!Err, so I need to buy a new one of these (don't ask why)
I want to know why because it's Friday & lols are always required! .
Which picture, or both? Not 'normal' for 2k miles. The top one showing threads off the side of the middle tread looks like it's been scrubbed. Similar to how a tread looks if it's been worn through after being locked up. The lower one could be the same, it just hasn't worn through as much/far and appears to be both sides of the main tread.
Are they isolated areas on the tyres, ie only those 2 patches? Is the lower the front and the top the rear? Have you 'washed out' or done anything like powerslides with them? can't quite think how the off-centre treads would be so scrubbed without the middle tread showing similar.
Maybe this image will help explain things...
I managed to drop part of the compressor into my steerer and it got stuck near my fork. I spent a long time trying to fish it out with a coat-hanger. Eventually I rescued it but I had damaged it with all the poking and now it won't thread onto the other end.