Ryzen 3900x WaterCooling Help (Beginner)

Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Ah!, I didn't think of that approach! I have a dual 5.25 drive bay res in this box with two ports on the front of it, that may be the way to go. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Permabanned
Joined
15 Oct 2011
Posts
6,311
Location
Nottingham Carlton
You want to turn the block 90 degrees left so outlet is on top and inlet twoards bottom around 10-15c lower temperatures of cores. Due to how Chiplets are located in the cpu. Tested.
 
Last edited:
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
You want to turn the block 90 degrees left so outlet is on top and inlet twoards bottom around 10-15c lower temperatures of cores. Due to how Chiplets are located in the cpu. Tested.

I don't think I can turn this block 90 degrees due to the mounting brackets, if I do turn it, it will be 180 degrees, at the moment the inlet is on the left hand side and the outlet is on the right hand side.

Busy leak testing at the moment:

20190816-153111.jpg


I don't like the cross-over of the tubing at the right hand side, but its the best I could get it with pushing the tubing too much. This loop won't be on display, its purely for cooling purposes only so I'm not too bothered about the cross-over (except my ocd is going the be at me for the first while).
 
Permabanned
Joined
15 Oct 2011
Posts
6,311
Location
Nottingham Carlton
I don't think I can turn this block 90 degrees due to the mounting brackets, if I do turn it, it will be 180 degrees, at the moment the inlet is on the left hand side and the outlet is on the right hand side.

Busy leak testing at the moment:

20190816-153111.jpg


I don't like the cross-over of the tubing at the right hand side, but its the best I could get it with pushing the tubing too much. This loop won't be on display, its purely for cooling purposes only so I'm not too bothered about the cross-over (except my ocd is going the be at me for the first while).
You can you just need to take block apart those 4 screws in bottom and you can turn it around how you want. But bit late now.

I was expecting You will have second radiator between cpu and gpu so warm water from cpu would get cooled down before it hits gpu like.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
You can you just need to take block apart those 4 screws in bottom and you can turn it around how you want. But bit late now.

Oh, I did not know I could do that, I'll need to see how my temperatures are when I get the system installed, and if they are not great I may try your suggestion.

I was expecting You will have second radiator between cpu and gpu so warm water from cpu would get cooled down before it hits gpu like.

I was originally going to try and get the radiators between the CPU/GPU but then I came across the video below which mentions that radiator placement/order does not matter (as much).

 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
8,275
Location
Aranyaprathet, Thailand
The video is right. The CPU temps may be slightly higher than if the roof rad was immediately after the gpu but it's marginal.

If you could be bothered, you could have had the top rad's ports at the back. You then go from the gpu to the roof rad, then into the cpu, then into the front res/pump. No cross over and a slightly more optimal loop.

Oh, and do what Zeed said about the cpu block.
 
Permabanned
Joined
15 Oct 2011
Posts
6,311
Location
Nottingham Carlton
The video is right. The CPU temps may be slightly higher than if the roof rad was immediately after the gpu but it's marginal.

If you could be bothered, you could have had the top rad's ports at the back. You then go from the gpu to the roof rad, then into the cpu, then into the front res/pump. No cross over and a slightly more optimal loop.

Oh, and do what Zeed said about the cpu block.
I was thinking hes gonna go with pump ---> cpu--->rad ---->gpu --->rad so cpu wont be heating gpu up as much. I know GPUs like dont cab heat as much. But thats how I would have it :D.

On that note I'd still go heatkiller over EK block for zen2 cause of cold plate construction being better for zen2 :) but I'm waiting for 8pack blocks :)
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Thanks for your tips both! I may try both those suggestions (90 degree block change and the different loop configuration). I've currently run out of ZMT tubing, but I'll try to find some more and keep that handy for when I give this a go, I'd like to try and run the system as is for a while to get my head around the temperatures so that I can see what the changes actually do.

Thanks again for the suggestions, much appreciated, would not have been able to do it without the help from you guys.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Hi, back again.

So, I managed to get my paws on some more tubing, waiting for that to arrive.

Does anyone know what kind of temperatures I should expect with this setup and a 3900x? Right now, at relative idle, my CPU is hovering between 40 - 45 degrees celcius, I'm not sure if this is "normal". It may have something to do with my fan speeds too, I need to set those up too, any suggestions as to what I should attempt first with the fan speeds, as in, what speeds to set them at to get a baseline.

Under load the system gets to 69.8 degrees celcius, but sounds like a rocket trying to take off with all the fans spinning up.

The GPU seems fine, hovers between 28 - 29 degrees celcius, although, I've not done a load test on it yet.

Do those temps seem "normal" enough to the more experienced eye?
 
Soldato
Joined
28 Dec 2017
Posts
8,443
Location
Beds
Well, if the GPU is 28° then the water temperature is around that. So your CPU is idling about 10-20° above its coolant. I'd be a little suspicious, although I haven't water cooled any Ryzen yet :)

What happens when you remove the load? Does the CPU drop back to idle temps/similar to the GPU quickly?

I generally find my GPU tracks water temp somewhat, load adds maybe 5-10° maximum. Whereas CPU idles 5° above the water temp and will happily jump 20° under load. It's a delidded i5-4690k with a mild overclock.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Well, if the GPU is 28° then the water temperature is around that. So your CPU is idling about 10-20° above its coolant. I'd be a little suspicious, although I haven't water cooled any Ryzen yet :)

Interesting, I wonder if what @Zeed is saying above (about the 90 degree rotation of the CPU block) is what is causing my high idle temps, or, maybe the block is not seated properly.

What happens when you remove the load? Does the CPU drop back to idle temps/similar to the GPU quickly?

Those temps are idle (40 -45 degrees celcius), if I put the box under load it jumps up to 69.8 degrees celcius (once it hit 70/71 degrees celcius) but doesnt move above that, when I stop the load, it drops back down to about 40 - 45 degrees celcius again.

I generally find my GPU tracks water temp somewhat, load adds maybe 5-10° maximum. Whereas CPU idles 5° above the water temp and will happily jump 20° under load. It's a delidded i5-4690k with a mild overclock.

Hmm, I must have something amiss with my setup then, I'm busy performing a 7z restore on the system at the moment, I'll wait for that to finish and let the system get back to idle and I'll post a screen snippet of the temps of both CPU & GPU so you can see what I'm talking about.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Here's a snap of HWINFO with the CPU/GPU temps:



The first while in the CPU temps is the 7z restore, hovering arounf 50 - 55 degrees C and that is with 2 cores active performing the extraction. The CPU still seems to be spiking often, which, I guess, is normal enough, I just wonder if those "idle" temps are a bit too high. You can see the GPU sitting there at 29 degrees C.

EDIT: Just noticed that the image above is quite small, a better/bigger one can be found HERE
 
Permabanned
Joined
15 Oct 2011
Posts
6,311
Location
Nottingham Carlton
Here's a snap of HWINFO with the CPU/GPU temps:



The first while in the CPU temps is the 7z restore, hovering arounf 50 - 55 degrees C and that is with 2 cores active performing the extraction. The CPU still seems to be spiking often, which, I guess, is normal enough, I just wonder if those "idle" temps are a bit too high. You can see the GPU sitting there at 29 degrees C.

EDIT: Just noticed that the image above is quite small, a better/bigger one can be found HERE
Yup It's the Block just had a look on power draw and temps on Idle and had same before turned block around.

Best Indicator of it is that Cpu temperature is 20c lower than Tdie temperature. 100% what I had 20c difference before turning block around.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
Yup It's the Block just had a look on power draw and temps on Idle and had same before turned block around.

Ahh balls, I'm gonna have to drain and rotate now, which means I'm gonna need to get more liquid too, this loop takes nearly 1.5 liters of liquid.

Best Indicator of it is that Cpu temperature is 20c lower than Tdie temperature. 100% what I had 20c difference before turning block around.

I'm sorry, where do I see the "CPU Temperature" reading to compare it with Tdie?

On a side note, you were saying earlier that the Heatkiller CPU blocks were a better design than the EK ones, which particular Heatkiller block were you referring to?
 
Permabanned
Joined
15 Oct 2011
Posts
6,311
Location
Nottingham Carlton
Ahh balls, I'm gonna have to drain and rotate now, which means I'm gonna need to get more liquid too, this loop takes nearly 1.5 liters of liquid.



I'm sorry, where do I see the "CPU Temperature" reading to compare it with Tdie?

On a side note, you were saying earlier that the Heatkiller CPU blocks were a better design than the EK ones, which particular Heatkiller block were you referring to?
The full copper am4 iv pro one. Base plate much thicker and better design for zen2 till someone makes zen 2 specific one with in and out on edge not central edge like they all are now.
 
Soldato
Joined
28 Dec 2017
Posts
8,443
Location
Beds
You can probably drain your loop into a bowl and refill using the same fluid.

Also, if the unscrewing doesn't open the water path itself, you can probably do it without draining at all.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
The full copper am4 iv pro one. Base plate much thicker and better design for zen2 till someone makes zen 2 specific one with in and out on edge not central edge like they all are now.

Thanks for the info, I may wait until someone brings out a zen2 block rather than going for the Heatkiller now.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
9 Jul 2019
Posts
25
You can probably drain your loop into a bowl and refill using the same fluid.

Also, if the unscrewing doesn't open the water path itself, you can probably do it without draining at all.

Looks like I will need to drain the loop, according to the video below, I need to take the whole block apart to rotate it 90 degrees to the left.


Just in-case the video doesn't start at the correct time, the part where he shows how to rotate the head start at around 08:37.
 
Back
Top Bottom