Soldato
Won't cause a problem but will be a little ugly. If you need to drain the loop, use a port on the pump/res, then turn the machine so it's standing on its roof. The pump/res is now on the bottom and the drain should work.
You want to turn the block 90 degrees left so outlet is on top and inlet twoards bottom around 10-15c lower temperatures of cores. Due to how Chiplets are located in the cpu. Tested.
You can you just need to take block apart those 4 screws in bottom and you can turn it around how you want. But bit late now.I don't think I can turn this block 90 degrees due to the mounting brackets, if I do turn it, it will be 180 degrees, at the moment the inlet is on the left hand side and the outlet is on the right hand side.
Busy leak testing at the moment:
I don't like the cross-over of the tubing at the right hand side, but its the best I could get it with pushing the tubing too much. This loop won't be on display, its purely for cooling purposes only so I'm not too bothered about the cross-over (except my ocd is going the be at me for the first while).
You can you just need to take block apart those 4 screws in bottom and you can turn it around how you want. But bit late now.
I was expecting You will have second radiator between cpu and gpu so warm water from cpu would get cooled down before it hits gpu like.
I was thinking hes gonna go with pump ---> cpu--->rad ---->gpu --->rad so cpu wont be heating gpu up as much. I know GPUs like dont cab heat as much. But thats how I would have it .The video is right. The CPU temps may be slightly higher than if the roof rad was immediately after the gpu but it's marginal.
If you could be bothered, you could have had the top rad's ports at the back. You then go from the gpu to the roof rad, then into the cpu, then into the front res/pump. No cross over and a slightly more optimal loop.
Oh, and do what Zeed said about the cpu block.
Well, if the GPU is 28° then the water temperature is around that. So your CPU is idling about 10-20° above its coolant. I'd be a little suspicious, although I haven't water cooled any Ryzen yet
What happens when you remove the load? Does the CPU drop back to idle temps/similar to the GPU quickly?
I generally find my GPU tracks water temp somewhat, load adds maybe 5-10° maximum. Whereas CPU idles 5° above the water temp and will happily jump 20° under load. It's a delidded i5-4690k with a mild overclock.
Yup It's the Block just had a look on power draw and temps on Idle and had same before turned block around.Here's a snap of HWINFO with the CPU/GPU temps:
The first while in the CPU temps is the 7z restore, hovering arounf 50 - 55 degrees C and that is with 2 cores active performing the extraction. The CPU still seems to be spiking often, which, I guess, is normal enough, I just wonder if those "idle" temps are a bit too high. You can see the GPU sitting there at 29 degrees C.
EDIT: Just noticed that the image above is quite small, a better/bigger one can be found HERE
Yup It's the Block just had a look on power draw and temps on Idle and had same before turned block around.
Best Indicator of it is that Cpu temperature is 20c lower than Tdie temperature. 100% what I had 20c difference before turning block around.
The full copper am4 iv pro one. Base plate much thicker and better design for zen2 till someone makes zen 2 specific one with in and out on edge not central edge like they all are now.Ahh balls, I'm gonna have to drain and rotate now, which means I'm gonna need to get more liquid too, this loop takes nearly 1.5 liters of liquid.
I'm sorry, where do I see the "CPU Temperature" reading to compare it with Tdie?
On a side note, you were saying earlier that the Heatkiller CPU blocks were a better design than the EK ones, which particular Heatkiller block were you referring to?
The full copper am4 iv pro one. Base plate much thicker and better design for zen2 till someone makes zen 2 specific one with in and out on edge not central edge like they all are now.
You can probably drain your loop into a bowl and refill using the same fluid.
Also, if the unscrewing doesn't open the water path itself, you can probably do it without draining at all.