Garage conversion. damp proofing

Associate
Joined
25 Sep 2016
Posts
885
the lower bricks are a tiny bit damp in one place

In that case you will be fine with a small ventilated cavity like suggested.

My garage is >1m below ground level on one wall and has a lot of water coming though it so I will need to divert the water before tanking it.

You however will be fine with the solutions suggested.

Keep us updated!
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
12 Feb 2006
Posts
17,223
Location
Surrey
How would you know if the ceiling has asbestos?

I'm sure it doesn't, it's just a smooth chip board style ceiling or maybe plaster board, and I was about to take down but my partner put the seed of doubt in my mind and its grown.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
12 Feb 2006
Posts
17,223
Location
Surrey
met with the building regs guy today. he said as the garage isn't attached we don't need any building regs, though we can get them, they aren't required. saved us some money.

he did advise to do different to what i had planned.

he said to instead lay 1 brick, put a dpc, then another brick on top. on top of that a stud wall and insulate behind that creating a cavity.

then i think he said to then lay a dpm on top of that from the inside of the wall, and then build another wall on that, this to prvent mouisture from inside getting to the insulation

seemed an odd way to do it to me, plus i've bought dpm from permaguard so kind of planned to use that.

any thoughts from people on here?
 
Soldato
Joined
17 Jun 2007
Posts
9,296
Rising damp:

Get a bucket of water and 4 bricks. Put the bricks in the water one top of each other. Then fill the bucket so it covers the first brick and wait............After a few days see how far up the 2nd brick the water has gone. It will NEVER reach the 4th. The weight of the water will stop it getting above a certain point. If my memory serves me right its max is about 5-6 inches so maybe just into brick #3
 
Associate
Joined
25 Sep 2016
Posts
885
That’s basically a way to keep the edge of the DPM off the floor and give you a fixing for the bottom of the stud that won’t breach the DPM.

There’s probably a few different safe ways to do it.

Basically copy someone who has done it with no issues :)
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
12 Feb 2006
Posts
17,223
Location
Surrey
I'm still unsure exactly what the best thing to do is. I've got some photos now and made a small bit of progress as I've removed the existing plasterboard ceiling and put the injection dpc in. Whether it's needed or not, the cost wasn't too much for me to do myself.

I've spoke to the guys who sold me the dpm and they suggested tanking the bricks below the dpc. Trouble is with paint on them I can't and I understand tanking isn't always a great idea.

In the photos any dark patches on the floor may be as there was a large wooden station with shelves here before and soiled spilled from potting happening before we bought the house. I've since cleaned the area and the water does pool towards the back left corner.

The wall with the shovel on is the one with neighbours soil about 3 bricks from the bottom in height. The others have the outside patio about 2 bricks from bottom.

If I put an air brick in the shovel wall, what position should it be roughly?

The plan I think I've decided is the follows.

Put an air brick on that rear shovel wall.

Lay 1 course of bricks spread out on the floor put the dpc sheet down and then lay another course of bricks on the original to create a gap below the dpc for air flow and allow the floor to be drilled into something.

Then put the egg shell style dpm I've got on all the wall going up to the ceiling.

Then timber drills onto that. Then insulate in between.

Then for the ceiling, figure out how to close up the gap that the plant is coming in (though perhaps air flow here isn't a bad thing?) then insulate the ceiling.

Should I lay a dpm between the layer above the ceiling and insulation, or between insulation and plasterboard, or not at all?

Then plasterboard everything and chip board the floor.

Any issues with this?

If I can ill try remove the soil from neighbours wall and apply blackjack to the lower part of the exterior wall.




IMG-20190826-175118.jpg

IMG-20190826-175134.jpg

IMG-20190926-173238.jpg

IMG-20190926-173228.jpg
 
Soldato
Joined
19 Oct 2002
Posts
6,829
Location
Bath
I’m not 100% clear on what that injected damp course has achieved?
Absolutely nothing, not worth the time and effort. I have witnessed these types of dpc several times all have promised to solve damp problems and prevent water ingress, but in reality have done nothing!

Edpm sheet 4 or 5 bricks up the wall never fails.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
12 Feb 2006
Posts
17,223
Location
Surrey
what are peoples views on just laying thermal insulatoin slabs celotex style on the concrete and chipboard on top of that? so nothing actually screwed to the floor, just held down by gravity and the weight above?

considering this may be an easier option.

would i put the dpm below the insulation slab or above?

would 50mm be thick enough of something better?

any brands to look at as assume celotex for the most part you're paying for the name?
 
Soldato
Joined
19 Oct 2002
Posts
6,829
Location
Bath
what are peoples views on just laying thermal insulatoin slabs celotex style on the concrete and chipboard on top of that? so nothing actually screwed to the floor, just held down by gravity and the weight above?

considering this may be an easier option.

would i put the dpm below the insulation slab or above?

would 50mm be thick enough of something better?

any brands to look at as assume celotex for the most part you're paying for the name?

I wouldnt advise this as the weight on the celotex will compress it and cause it to degrade over time, it is also likely to sweat and get damp/smells over time. i would batton the floor (suspended) and fit the celotex between the joists so there is a small air gap.
 
Associate
Joined
25 Sep 2016
Posts
885
don't bother with a suspended floor, just use the correct product

https://www.building-supplies-onlin...MI5Mmjh6_45AIVENreCh1XFQWYEAQYASABEgK_EvD_BwE

therm floor is fine to lay direct onto damp proof membrane with 18mm T&G chip board directly on top.

How I would do it - lay decent damp proof membrane nice and high up the walls, sticking a couple of air bricks in, building stud walls 25mm off the existing walls, 50mm celotex (or equivalent all round - all taped for air/vapour control.
 
Back
Top Bottom