*** Official Hyperoptic Discussion Thread ***

[deadman29]

So moving into new build place next week and I only have the option for BT or Hyperoptic. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out if I am able to move the router out of the "boiler room" it's been placed into the living room but sadly doesn't seem like it. I have two sockets in the living and bedroom which I think are connected into this patch panel and then a socket in the boiler room with the hyperoptic sticker on it. I'm assuming that thing will only run connected to that specific socket and not the ones in the living room (those look more like standard phone sockets). Due to the BS 1 year policy I can't tack the cables around the wall corners into the living room so its either have loose floor cabling or use the Wifi I assume. A shame, would have preferred a wired connection.

I think I'll have to end up with the latter option.. do you folks suggest replacing the router they provide with a diff one (I see people recommending the R7000?) or is there a better/more recent one? And on that note, (excuse my sillyness), I don't have a network/wifi card/adapter or use a dongle on the PC.. guess I'd have to get one of those too?)

 

[MrRockliffe]

You can move the socket, or get them to

Router wise, you're pretty much golden on 1Gb, but on anything less it needs to support /31 on the WAN ports.

I use Google WiFi kit with mine, plugged directly into the Socket on a 150Mb package

 

[deadman29]

Sadly I can't actually do anything to the walls, can't drill in to them, cant stick anything on them for the first year at all. So the only option is to have loose cabling on the floor.

I'm on 1gb, so I assume I'll be fine if I get an R7000 (or if others have recommendations?) and a dual band AC 1900 wireless adapter?

 

[mrkev]

If the patch panel is in the boiler room with the hyperoptic socket then can't you patch from one to the other and so plug the router into the living room?

 

[Caged]

What's the one year rule about?

 

[deadman29]

1 year rule is the landlords warranty period or some shiz; can't drill any holes or modify them in any way. I dunno strange.

Upon closer look, it looks like the other sockets in the living room are all phone sockets (thin rectangle), so the wan cable of the router doesnt fit in. I assume that means my options are limited in either running a long ass cable or stick to wifi.
Tested out the wifi on my xps13 (latest one) and got like 200mb down on the 1gb line. I'm hoping a better router plugged directly into the hyperoptic socket can improve that. Just not sure which to buy yet.

 

[MacRS4]

I have a Synology router - I get about 350-400Mbps.

 

[deadman29]

Moved in - decided to run a cable temporarily and see I'm getting some strange results. On the 1gb package gettingf ~400Mbps down and ~900Mbps up. Tried laptop same result, changed out the cables several times, plugged directly into the hyperoptic socket and still getting the same. Waiting to hear back from them, but any thoughts on what could cause such a difference?

 

[Caged]

Yeah, the fact that your building likely only has a 1Gbps link into Hyperoptic's core network. If you wake up at 4am and try again then you'd probably find that you get the full speed.

 

[MacRS4]

Yeah, the fact that your building likely only has a 1Gbps link into Hyperoptic's core network. If you wake up at 4am and try again then you'd probably find that you get the full speed.

Loads of people have it in my block (I can see as most don't change their WIFI names). Currently getting 900ish up/down. Also I work from home, and I rarely see it drop below 850ish.

Could be different in your block @deadman29 of course.

 

[deadman29]

I'm getting the same speed at any point in the day, 11am, 4am, 4pm.. any hour of the day.

Fair few people in this block have Hyperoptic too, not sure what they're getting though, haven't really seen many outside.

 

[~cw]

If you run tests on http://speed.hyperoptic.com then query them with support, that test page logs your results with them so they can see your results. If you get consistently slower speeds to Hyperoptic's test server, try speed tests to various high throughput UK based servers (Vodafone, TNP, Structured Communications, GTT, Spitfire, Faelix, B4RN, M247) on the multi setting and see what your peak speeds are like.

Also try fast.com, it's Netflix's speedtest service (click the Settings cog and enable Always show all metrics and save config, then you'll see up & down speeds, latency, IP and servers used)

If they're all capping at around 400 mbit/sec down, it's one of several things:

1/ your interface isn't configured optimally (many settings can cause drops in speed at higher throughputs) or the laptop can't handle sustained gigabit throughput
2/ the Hyperoptic feed to your building is oversubscribed and becoming saturated at peak times
3/ it's Windows being a **** (my main gaming rig has terrible issues due to Windows 10 and Intel driver weirdness, if I boot it to Linux and do same tests I get far more consistent, high speed results)

I've also noticed speed discrepancies depending on whether you're using ipv4 or ipv6. I guess their different networks have different paths from upstream providers and v4 is saturated more quickly than v6 at peak.

 

[Ddubya]

Can anyone tell me if this will work?......

I use Hyperoptic for our company internet connection which we share with another company. At the moment we use the Hyperoptic router with NAT and DHCP disabled into which we connect 2 separate routers that are set up to provide all the routing functionality for the 2 companies VPNs etc which are set up to use individual static IP's from our pool provided by Hyperoptic... this works fine apart from the fact we constantly have to reset the Hyperoptic router as for some reason it decided to stop downloading files over a few Mb at random intervals. It is getting worse so I asked Hyperoptic for a new router which they provided however there are no settings on the new router where you can disable NAT. Am I correct in thinking that what we are doing in disabling NAT and DHCP is effectively turning the router into a switch so we could just replace it with a bog standard Gb switch and it would work in a similar way to what we are doing now? I assume that as you can plug straight into the wall with an ethernet cable and get internet it is just an ethernet connection to Hyperoptics network or am I oversimplifying it?

 

[~cw]

Can anyone tell me if this will work?......

I use Hyperoptic for our company internet connection which we share with another company. At the moment we use the Hyperoptic router with NAT and DHCP disabled into which we connect 2 separate routers that are set up to provide all the routing functionality for the 2 companies VPNs etc which are set up to use individual static IP's from our pool provided by Hyperoptic... this works fine apart from the fact we constantly have to reset the Hyperoptic router as for some reason it decided to stop downloading files over a few Mb at random intervals. It is getting worse so I asked Hyperoptic for a new router which they provided however there are no settings on the new router where you can disable NAT. Am I correct in thinking that what we are doing in disabling NAT and DHCP is effectively turning the router into a switch so we could just replace it with a bog standard Gb switch and it would work in a similar way to what we are doing now? I assume that as you can plug straight into the wall with an ethernet cable and get internet it is just an ethernet connection to Hyperoptics network or am I oversimplifying it?

Sounds like you're making the poor Hyperhub run out of grunt. I can make the Tilgin Hyperhub keel over on its own and stop serving DHCP, that's just with our household devices.

If your new router is also a Tilgin, you can disable NAT but it's really not recommended - accomplishes nothing and stops your Internet working. Without NAT, you won't have any outbound IP translation, so all packets leaving your network will still have their (non-routable) private range IPs, you'll never get any responses back from any servers.

You want to avoid creating one large Layer 2 network, because broadcast traffic will be able to get between both companies' LANs. It's inadvisable to use one router and have that provide a single 'flat' network to both companies. Hyperoptic's network configuration limits you slightly as they only serve either one static IPv4 or CG-NAT IPv4 and IPv6 addresses to a single MAC. Subsequent devices just get ignored (so you can't just whack a switch in between Hyperoptic and your LAN).


I'd recommend Mikrotik for this - single WAN router, multiple DHCP servers for different networks with routed ethernet ports for separation (to avoid Layer 2 broadcasts crossing the networks), it's not a five minute setup (you need to configure the router from scratch) so requires understanding of RouterOS and how the MT hardware works but is ultimately a better solution.

What's your skill level? If there's money for it and you're not gemmed up on Mikrotik or networking, I'd suggest getting a consultant to provide a suitable RouterBoard configured to your requirements. Isolated networks, single upstream WAN, NAT and DHCP on each and no bridging. Maybe both companies chip in for it.

There's also lots of great support and documentation on the Mikrotik forum and web site/wiki, there's quite a few fora where MT specialists lurk and provide config assistance.

 

[Ddubya]

Hi CW

Cheers for the suggestion. We currently have 2 routers a Cisco and a Draytek plugged into the Hyperhub which has NAT and DHCP disabled, with those 2 services running on the separate routers which gives us 2 independent networks and apart form the intermittent issue works really well. I just want to eliminate the Hyperhub from the senario. I could do this by adding in another 3rd party router and disabling the services similar to the way we have with our old Hyperhub but I was was just wondering if by disabling those services and effectively turning the Hyperhub into a switch I could simplify things and just put a switch in. Im gonna try it with a switch I have at home as worst case I just have to put the old router back in if it doesn't work?...If not I may look further into what you are suggesting.

 

[~cw]

Hi CW

Cheers for the suggestion. We currently have 2 routers a Cisco and a Draytek plugged into the Hyperhub which has NAT and DHCP disabled, with those 2 services running on the separate routers which gives us 2 independent networks and apart form the intermittent issue works really well. I just want to eliminate the Hyperhub from the senario. I could do this by adding in another 3rd party router and disabling the services similar to the way we have with our old Hyperhub but I was was just wondering if by disabling those services and effectively turning the Hyperhub into a switch I could simplify things and just put a switch in. Im gonna try it with a switch I have at home as worst case I just have to put the old router back in if it doesn't work?...If not I may look further into what you are suggesting.

I think I understand you just want to turn the Hyperhub into a switch? It won't do what you want in that case. (I think!) It doesn't offer the WAN port as part of one bridge, the Tilgin's WAN port is a routed gateway. You couldn't have it passing through both routers direct to Hyperoptic's equipment, you can only have one MAC presenting at Layer 2 to their kit.

All this might be possible if you had the superuser login for the Tilgin. But no way they'll give it to you. I had to beg them to log in and enable ICMP response on the WAN as the feature's removed from the 'admin' account we get.

I think you'll have less future headaches by getting either the Cisco or a MT doing routing to two isolated networks and using the Draytek and another device as switches


By disabling NAT and DHCP on the HH it sounds fortuitously that it's doing masquerading for the already-NATted traffic from the Cisco and Draytek, that's handy to know.

 

[Caged]

You can't shove a switch onto a Hyperoptic connection and share things that way - the devices have to be addressed by DHCP and you won't get that to work if you have two things connected.

Hyperoptic connections are pretty cheap so the easiest thing to do would be to just buy another one so each business has their own connection. If you didn't want to do that then a firewall that supports vdoms like a Fortigate would be ideal as then each business can manage their own LAN without having to rely on the fact that the router is owned/managed by the other company.

 

[muon]

You can move the socket, or get them to

Router wise, you're pretty much golden on 1Gb, but on anything less it needs to support /31 on the WAN ports.

I use Google WiFi kit with mine, plugged directly into the Socket on a 150Mb package

Do you know if this is true for the 500Mb/s package as well. I know the 150Mb/s package caps out at 100Mb/s without a supporting router (what I have atm).

edit:

Found my answer

https://www.hyperoptic.com/help/router/

If you are a 500Mb or 1Gb customer, no specific configuration is required. If you are a 50Mb or 150Mb customer, your router needs to support /31 (255.255.255.254) subnet mask on its WAN port in order for the router to work with Hyperoptic’s service.

Found my next upgrade. Should be able to get close to 500Mb/s across wifi.

 

[MrRockliffe]

Do you know if this is true for the 500Mb/s package as well. I know the 150Mb/s package caps out at 100Mb/s without a supporting router (what I have atm).

edit:

Found my answer

https://www.hyperoptic.com/help/router/



Found my next upgrade. Should be able to get close to 500Mb/s across wifi.

It’ll be a great upgrade

enjoy!