Really stupid question.can somebody answer for me please

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So my loop sprung a leak. I didnt notice until i felt some warm liquid on my arm. No harm done as it was from my reservoir and it's out of the way of everything else.

The leak has happened because my fans stopped spinning and the heat built up in the liquid. The leak stopped as soon as the pc was turned off. I tried adjusting the fans before I turned it off and it said not connected or something similar. If I get the fans connection fixed is it possible the leak wont still be present or will the heat build up have destroyed an O ring or something?

Looking at getting that distros plate for lian li if its needed.
 
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Unlikely it will have damaged the oring but before restarting it might just be worth it to drain the loop and check its condition and ensure everything is tight.

The amount of heat possible is unlikely to have caused enough pressure for the oring to fail/leak. As you’d run into a lot of thermal throttle issues etc before that point.

But obviously the increase in pressure could have caused the leak if it wasn’t quite tight or damaged, not seated correctly etc so best to check.
 
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Well its been safe and leak free for over 6 months. Will defo be checking before I run it again.

I'm also curious how the cable could have become loose...
 
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Well its been safe and leak free for over 6 months. Will defo be checking before I run it again.

I'm also curious how the cable could have become loose...

Fan connectors are total crap. Amount of times I’ve move a few wires turned the pc on and had a few fans not running because they come off too easily. Wish they had some sort of clip etc to keep them held on better especially for extension, splitter cables etc.
 
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a lot more liquid missing from reservoir this morning. So defo not revealed. It's all in the same.place so no other leaks I hope.

Didnt realise that lian li distro plate was delayed til after September now...
 
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Fan connectors are total crap. Amount of times I’ve move a few wires turned the pc on and had a few fans not running because they come off too easily. Wish they had some sort of clip etc to keep them held on better especially for extension, splitter cables etc.
They are all connected to a phanteks hub so its either the hub or the wire for the hub.

I know it only leaked last night because the reservoir was completely full. It's about half full now lol. It's the smallest d5 res combo i could find so its not like a massive pool of water.
 
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Here is the image before I turned it off last night.

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It's not on its side that's just how I mist have taken the picture. It stopped leaking like that as soon as I turned it off. But after further inspection in the morning the leak never stopped. Haven't had a chance to sort it though so will be empty by time i get home from work to deal with it.
 
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Unlikely it will have damaged the oring but before restarting it might just be worth it to drain the loop and check its condition and ensure everything is tight.

The amount of heat possible is unlikely to have caused enough pressure for the oring to fail/leak. As you’d run into a lot of thermal throttle issues etc before that point.

But obviously the increase in pressure could have caused the leak if it wasn’t quite tight or damaged, not seated correctly etc so best to check.
I'm using the same reservoir, and as bad it may sound, sometimes the acrylic tube isn't tightly connected to the base (where the pump is connected).
I had to put a bit more pressure than I was comfortable with to stop it from leaking.
The temperature alone won't force a leak. And if the simply pressure of the pump working forces a leak, the connections aren't secured enough.
My advice is to drain the system, and make sure the o-ring that sits between the acrylic cylinder and the base is't "chewed/damaged".
Secure firmly. Not Hulk-mode, but a tight fit. In fact, it was the first time that I have to go against all my previous experiences and kind of over tighten it. As I said, nothing extreme, but a bit more than the usual, I must say.
The same procedure where the pump connects to the base.
Ensure the fittings are secure in place. They tend to come slightly off when moving the tubes during fitting.
Once all reconnected, with some paper towel, drain the outside of the reservoir, to ensure no coolant left as it will give false alarms for the following check.
After refilling the system, you can use a new piece of paper towel and run it around the small crease/gap(?) between the base and the acrylic cylinder. Any leak would show fluid there, before a bigger quantity of fluid is leaked. I would also recommend to leave a piece of paper tower under the pump just to check if any coolant has leaked.
The only thing I'm unsure what's the correct way to do, and other people may be able to help is, once the system is refilled, I always leave the filling port, the one at the top open, as starting the pump, the coolant level goes a bit down, them I refill a bit, at about 90% of the reservoir capacity, and once the pump is at the desired speed (mine I can adjust manually), I close the filling port. I'm not sure if you should close it, air tight, with the pump off or on? As when the pump is working the coolant level will be lower, so I assume less pressure on the pump, as I assume if sealed with the pump off, when on, some pressure will be created? Or it's simply the same?
 
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You were correct the reservoir wasn’t tight enough. It definitely was when I put it together over 6 months ago. So how could i5 have gotten loose? Seems everything was a little loose, well I could tighten all the fittings etc. Only leaked out of reservoir though. Nothing is damaged and it all seems in excellent condition - Orings etc.

It’s all drying now so will get it put back together Monday, cba changing tubing but it does need it, it can wait til the new year once ive got me that distorted plate.
 
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If your loop got too warm from stopped fans, that could have caused damage to PETG hard tubing. It could have also caused some pressure to loosen things.

Plus, parts age and wear. If they weren't that tight, they may well have loosened over time.

PETG deforms around 60° and can pop out of fittings.
 
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Yea I think it got too warm. Not for too long though. It would have turned pc off orngave me a warning sound.

All my tubing has gone rather cloudy. And the liquid was brown rather than the purple i had put in it when I made it. The purple faded a lot in the last 6 months though.
 
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Yea I think it got too warm. Not for too long though. It would have turned pc off orngave me a warning sound.

All my tubing has gone rather cloudy. And the liquid was brown rather than the purple i had put in it when I made it. The purple faded a lot in the last 6 months though.
There's few issues when certain coolants are used with certain tubing, but can't remember which.
I'm quite happy with the Mayhems, much better than the XSPC I've used in the past.
I would recommend a flush and possibly take the blocks apart and clean any gunk that may have formed.
Also using Mayhems coolant. Blue. Still nice after 2/3 months.
 
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I used deionized water and some mayhems xt1 I think it was. With mayhems tubing aswell I think so should be good together. The tubing literally went white that session. Was no discolour or anything the day before.
 
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One of the reasons I now use maintainance free (Ekwb zmt tube). Sick of mayhems flexi tube going cloudy and putting loads of crap in the loop.

Needs new tubing and a flush by the looks of that reservoir anyway.

Always use an aquaero now. Much better fan control. I have a warning setup if the fans or pump/s stop. Although you can set it to anything, flow rate, liquid temp. Can have it shutdown etc. Highly recommended.
 
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