Ford Focus Brake Caliper Hex Key.

[red eye]

I have a Focus -buy the right tool. It makes the job so much easier. While there undo the bleed nipples if you can - they snapped off on my 10 reg and had to buy two new calipers.

I have a Focus -buy the right tool. It makes the job so much easier. While there undo the bleed nipples if you can - they snapped off on my 10 reg and had to buy two new calipers.

hope you changed the fluid too

 

[red eye]

Snapped off how?

water makes it’s way down the threads. They should be opened every two years when you change the brake fluid

 

[red eye]

I got these and they work great.

You get a whole 3-10mm kit for less than the single 7mm one in your link

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-225127-8-inch-Drive-3-10/dp/B00IV1SBV0

Silver line are a use once and throw away tool. Get some proper tools Halfords professional or sealy if you can get your hands on a trade card you get a discount on sale tools as well as your brake pads.

 

[jpaul]

and found the extended Allen key I linked to really useful,

versus a socket, it does look a bit fragile like a regular allen key ... where with the long shaft, its difficult to distinguish flexing that may snap the allen key, from torque you're applying to the nut ... and, you check you have your safety glasses on.
It would be interesting to know their relative breaking strains.

 

[This never ends well]

Silver line are a use once and throw away tool. Get some proper tools Halfords professional or sealy if you can get your hands on a trade card you get a discount on sale tools as well as your brake pads.

Yep as the hex will lose it shape as are cheaply made.

 

[red eye]

Yep as the hex will lose it shape as are cheaply made.

Better off using the hex that comes with ikia flatpacks

 

[red eye]

versus a socket, it does look a bit fragile like a regular allen key ... where with the long shaft, its difficult to distinguish flexing that may snap the allen key, from torque you're applying to the nut ... and, you check you have your safety glasses on.
It would be interesting to know their relative breaking strains.

thats a proper brake tool. The idea is you can’t over tighten as it’ll flex. Like any tool steel when it flexes and snaps you hand will tell you, but the steel is no different from a socket

 

[robj20]

thats a proper brake tool. The idea is you can’t over tighten as it’ll flex. Like any tool steel when it flexes and snaps you hand will tell you, but the steel is no different from a socket

Definitely the wrong tool. How are you supposed to tighten to the correct torque with an Allen key.
Mine were 35nm.

 

[Cookeh]

Copper Grease is good for 1100C+

https://www.molyslip.co.uk/products/anti-seize-and-assembly/copaslip/
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/halfords-copper-grease-20g

I'm aware of the claimed temperature range, and how silly it sounds to say that the copper grease isn't as suited due to thermal reasons. I should have also expanded on the pros and cons of each to better make my point. Indeed there are better reasons as to why one should not use copper grease.

I find, however, that copper grease dries up (presumably heat related, and hence my initial comment) very quickly and stops being an effective lubricant within a period of a few weeks to a month or two. Copper grease also has a chance to increase galvanic corrosion on and between parts, which I've found to be quite annoying when trying to remove steel wheels from rotor hats, only to find them corrosion welded together. Or to find pads sticking in the carriers due to a buildup of corrosion when the car has been sat whilst I'm on holiday. Furthermore most brake manufacturers now will not recommend the use of copper grease, instead advising to use ceramic based stuff like cera-tec, partially because of the corrosion issues, partially because of other things like cera-tec being non-conductive and hence unable to interfere with electronic braking systems.

Perhaps the most important thing to say, and what I should have led with instead of temperature, is that copper grease is an anti-seize product and not a lubricant, whilst cera-tec and similar are specially formulated lubricants for brakes. Brake sliders pins, and the surfaces on the carrier and pad that slide in contact need lubrication, not anti-seize.

 

[Gaygle]

Silver line are a use once and throw away tool. Get some proper tools Halfords professional or sealy if you can get your hands on a trade card you get a discount on sale tools as well as your brake pads.

I would agree that *some* Silverline stuff is use once and throw away. However this item is absolutely fine, even when I've used it through an impact wrench multiple times. Absolutely solid. With hex applications, as long as you keep the socket square in the bolt, it should be fine - it is this reason why most fall foul of hex bolts - not the tools fault. Caliper pins have nice deep hex heads which means it's almost impossible to not keep a hex socket square.

 

[jpaul]

which I've found to be quite annoying when trying to remove steel wheels from rotor hats, only to find them corrosion welded together.

Thankyou maybe you just solved my problem ... I've always religiously used in on hub face ... and repeatedly had to use heat/mallets/.... I'll switch to my pot of lithium,
or fork out for ceramic.

edit:

as long as you keep the socket square in the bolt

I often anally clean the bolt out first/bradall + a spray wd40

 

[DXP55]

hope you changed the fluid too

I changed it this week and the car is 10 yrs old - Up till now I have paid for Ford dealer service and I asked years ago for them to change the fluid - Bar getting under the car how would I know they never did it - The dealer snapped bleed nipple off front one so I assume when that happened they didn't try too hard on the other side. For some reason the rear nipples are bigger spanner size and they came undone when I changed the fluid.
I couldn't undo the other front one so instead of faffing about I just replaced both front calipers.
The brake pedal is now rock hard. - I have never been happy about the brakes on this Focus since I've had it - it passed all MOT's but I still put grooved discs on and green pads. - Now back to solid discs.
Brake work is about the only job I hate - dirty and messy.

 

[red eye]

I would agree that *some* Silverline stuff is use once and throw away. However this item is absolutely fine, even when I've used it through an impact wrench multiple times. Absolutely solid. With hex applications, as long as you keep the socket square in the bolt, it should be fine - it is this reason why most fall foul of hex bolts - not the tools fault. Caliper pins have nice deep hex heads which means it's almost impossible to not keep a hex socket square.

lol it won’t last long with me I’m on my second Mac tools 7mm. I would always recommend sealy or Halfords to a diyer, there cheap, good quality and lifetime warranty. Silverline will not offer lifetime because they are one time use only

 

[red eye]

I changed it this week and the car is 10 yrs old - Up till now I have paid for Ford dealer service and I asked years ago for them to change the fluid - Bar getting under the car how would I know they never did it - The dealer snapped bleed nipple off front one so I assume when that happened they didn't try too hard on the other side. For some reason the rear nipples are bigger spanner size and they came undone when I changed the fluid.
I couldn't undo the other front one so instead of faffing about I just replaced both front calipers.
The brake pedal is now rock hard. - I have never been happy about the brakes on this Focus since I've had it - it passed all MOT's but I still put grooved discs on and green pads. - Now back to solid discs.
Brake work is about the only job I hate - dirty and messy.

The nipples are like a woman you have to work hard to get in the........ you have to crack it work it back and forth, spray it. Some times I don’t bother with nipples and go for the union at the flexy and flush it from there then push the piston back to empty the caliper, it messy this way but saves a lot of time chuck some hot water over the mess and it’s all good.

Brakes are not that messy try a cv boot

 

[red eye]

Definitely the wrong tool. How are you supposed to tighten to the correct torque with an Allen key.
Mine were 35nm.

That’s a tool made for brake slider bolts its not a tool you have to use it’s a works on every car equiped with brakes with 7mm hex sliders.

If I could be bothered to work it out I bet 35Nm is not a lot
But apparently 1 falling apple is 1N so 35Nm is a bag of 35 apples hanging on a 1m lever.

These apples have to be the same apples that hit Isaac Newton

 

[robj20]

That’s a tool made for brake slider bolts its not a tool you have to use it’s a works on every car equiped with brakes with 7mm hex sliders.

If I could be bothered to work it out I bet 35Nm is not a lot
But apparently 1 falling apple is 1N so 35Nm is a bag of 35 apples hanging on a 1m lever.

These apples have to be the same apples that hit Isaac Newton

Please stay away from working on cars, especially the brakes.

 

[red eye]

Please stay away from working on cars, especially the brakes.

Really? Why do you think that?
You did read what that tool is called? Guess you just looked at the picture. Are you 100% sure that your google data spec’d 35Nm for the sliders or did you look at a picture?

Is it because I say 35Nm is not a lot?
You think it’s a lot? Well that depends on the length of your lever and how strong you are. If you cant pull 60-70Nm on a standard length ratchet you really need to hit the gym.

Or is because of the apples? You do know what Nm is right? Might want to google Issac Newton.

But really if you can’t tell how much force to use ie how much force is too little or too much you should stay away.
And I bet you used the torque wrench to do up the slider....I’m right yeah

A friendly bit of advice mechs don’t like have a go heros they usually get hit with the tw** tax when they bring in their F ups, it not so bad when the know their basics

 

[robj20]

Really? Why do you think that?
You did read what that tool is called? Guess you just looked at the picture. Are you 100% sure that your google data spec’d 35Nm for the sliders or did you look at a picture?

Is it because I say 35Nm is not a lot?
You think it’s a lot? Well that depends on the length of your lever and how strong you are. If you cant pull 60-70Nm on a standard length ratchet you really need to hit the gym.

Or is because of the apples? You do know what Nm is right? Might want to google Issac Newton.

But really if you can’t tell how much force to use ie how much force is too little or too much you should stay away.
And I bet you used the torque wrench to do up the slider....I’m right yeah

A friendly bit of advice mechs don’t like have a go heros they usually get hit with the tw** tax when they bring in their F ups

Of course I use a torque wrench only lazy people don't, in my job you'd get sacked for thinking you can guess torque.
You sound like the type that would airgun up wheel bolts, then put a torque wrench on that instantly clicks and think they've done a good job.

 

[red eye]

Of course I use a torque wrench only lazy people don't, in my job you'd get sacked for thinking you can guess torque.
You sound like the type that would airgun up wheel bolts, then put a torque wrench on that instantly clicks and think they've done a good job.

Air gun? This is 2019 I have a 18v impact wrench set to two on the power switch, gun up and final twist with torque wrench.

Achieving with a standard length ratchet 35Nm is well within my ability. Non of
My brake jobs have come back for failure.

Now you haven’t fully answered my question, I asked if you “do up” the bolt with a torque wrench as in from 1st thread to last with torque wrench?