Mountain Biking

[iMacMart]

Evening Gents

Any recommendations online or in-store I could get a good dropper for the Trek please 31.6mm

Like this perhaps?

 

[DereksDontRun]

the Brand-X is pretty good for the $. a mate moved from a Reverb to BrandX, as he kept having problems with the reverb and the cost of refurb/service each time was half the price of the BrandX, so his man-maths told him that he could get a brand new dropper for every other Reverb service...

but, looking at CRC - it's £130 for v1 and £140 for the v2 Ascend, so I'd do some research to see what the difference between the 2 are...

 

[iMacMart]

the Brand-X is pretty good for the $. a mate moved from a Reverb to BrandX, as he kept having problems with the reverb and the cost of refurb/service each time was half the price of the BrandX, so his man-maths told him that he could get a brand new dropper for every other Reverb service...

but, looking at CRC - it's £130 for v1 and £140 for the v2 Ascend, so I'd do some research to see what the difference between the 2 are...

Will do! Thanks - sorry what’s CRC?

 

[mattyfez]

Brand x seem to be to go to dropper of choice at the moment unless you want to spend a lot more.

CRC = chain reaction cycles, same company as wiggle basically.

 

[iMacMart]

Brand x seem to be to go to dropper of choice at the moment unless you want to spend a lot more.

CRC = chain reaction cycles, same company as wiggle basically.

Right, gotcha, not sure how to work out which length dropper I’d prefer? Assuming it’s based on distance to the seat stem etc

 

[DereksDontRun]

Will do! Thanks - sorry what’s CRC?

sorry, your link was to Chain Reaction Cycles, so I thought you'd get the acronym.

 

[DereksDontRun]

Right, gotcha, not sure how to work out which length dropper I’d prefer? Assuming it’s based on distance to the seat stem etc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lcdd5-La1c

You generally want the biggest drop you can fit - this is down to the size of frame and the size of you. Sadly, this isn't straightforwards, as the bigger the drop the more distance is needed in the frame for the "compressed" unit. So, a bigger frame can cope with a longer drop... but, a bigger frame on a smaller person will ultimately prevent a dropper, as they will be riding with the seatpost slammed... Also, different frames have different shaped seat-tubes, and thus can accommodate different lengths (ie some frames will allow a long dropper to be slammed, but other frames have a bend in the seat-tube, so can only accommodate a set distance - buy a long dropper on a small frame and its retracted length could well be the ideal extended length of a shorter dropper - if that makes sense).

When you have your bike, set your seatpost to your ideal peddling height (tbh, I probably add a cm or 2, to have it a little more, for steep climbs). Measure the length from the seat clamp (top of the frame) to the top of the seatpost (or the rails under the seat) - lets call this your seatpost height. Now, push your seat tube all the way into the frame and put your thumb against the seat-post, then retract the post to see how long the frame can accept. This is the max insertion depth.
1) Your dropper stroke (150 drop in your link) should be less (or equal to) your seatpost height.
2) You want the total length of the dropper to be no more than the max insertion depth + seatpost height.
3) After that, it's just checking the seatpost height - dropper stroke is more than the min insertion length, that's usually in the frame's handbook.

I think that's what I've done in the past...


NOTE... As you have the Trek Marlin, check the Q&A for the dropper you [ur=[URL]https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ascend-120mm-150mm-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod149024?gs=1&sku=sku669796&pgrid=60711843258&ptaid=pla-671044171380&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sQKA9oj16_dc|pcrid|309840119912|pkw||pmt||prd|669796UK&gclid=CjwKCAjw2qHsBRAGEiwAMbPoDGuqSJVpYK7Wk_4kOEEz8PTCnv5OePpcfYqH_71233FqLysp-n6f1hoCmI4QAvD_BwE]linked[/URL][/URL]

Will this work with a 2019 Trek Marlin 7 18.5? The Trek website says that it can support internal routing but I can't seem to find where it goes on my bike.

Answers

Looks like there's a spare cable routing entry point at the top right hand side of the down tube. You might need to remove the bb to get it up the seat post. Alternativvl y get the ascend 2 external post. Works great

So... also check on your frame where there's cable routing...

a load of info here too:
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/...er-posts-how-to-decide-correct-length-to-get/

 

[katinacooker]

So i got a cheapish Carrera Vulcan in April. Slowly been upgrading it bit by bit, and its amazing the difference the each incremental upgrade brings. I just keep riding my bike till something annoys me, then i changed it out

Lost traction on wet hardpack, so changed tyres from 2.1 Kenda nonsense to 2.4/2.2 Continental Mountain King
Grips starting to twist round during small drops and decents, swapped to B-dog Death Grips
Lost footing over a small rock garden, upgraded pedals and now rear wheel lifts make sense

Plan now is to get wider bars, and maybe a shorter stem as i find climbs rather wobbly. Then its onto more expensive changes, but i cant decide between drivetrain (swapping to 1x10/11 from 3x9), dropper post as the first one. Then it will be the other, then the forks, then the frame.

My brakes are the only thing that havent annoyed me other than changing the pads, though we shall see what the future brings

 

[rhysduck]

Then it will be the other, then the forks, then the frame.

Just buy a new bike dude

I couldn't get on with the Mountain Kings, seemed like they wanted to throw me off at any opportunity. Have been running Schwalbefor a while now on both bikes and they're brilliant!

 

[DereksDontRun]

lol, yeah, once you start looking at frames, you can soon talk yourself into a new bike...

I've recently changed my wheelset, as I buckled a rim. I wanted to make use of the bike while the weather was good, so just grabbed a new set, with the thought I could "theraputically" try to rebuild the bad wheel over winter... So, then started looking at a HT frame with the thought I could build up a bike gradually - someone mentioned the Shan on here and the amazing Martini livery, so priced up a build with that and I soon gave up on the idea as a new Whyte 905, Commencal HT AM Essential, or Nukeproof Scout would all be cheaper (yeah, I know they're all ally instead of steel)... I guess that if you already had a groupset, fork and brakes then most of the cost is already done...

As for tyres... I never know, as everything from conditions to tyre pressures have an influence.

I used to get a decent discount with Mavic, so used to run 2.5 Claw Pro front and back, but they're just too soft for the back, so now on 2.4 Quest Pro rear and 2.4 Mountain King 2 Black Chili at the front. I seem to remember the black chili compound making a big difference with the Mountain King, and without it they're pretty meh.

 

[rhysduck]

But none of those 3 bikes come close to the ride that is the Shan

My Shan was a fresh build, picked up some bargains on forks and drivetrain so saved a few hundred quid.

If you're ever down this way let me know and you can have a go of my Shan at BPW It's a brilliant bike!

 

[iMacMart]

the Brand-X is pretty good for the $. a mate moved from a Reverb to BrandX, as he kept having problems with the reverb and the cost of refurb/service each time was half the price of the BrandX, so his man-maths told him that he could get a brand new dropper for every other Reverb service...

but, looking at CRC - it's £130 for v1 and £140 for the v2 Ascend, so I'd do some research to see what the difference between the 2 are...

Had a quick online chat with them and they said it was mainly down to sizing and no other internal changes

Brand-X have had a few iterations of Ascend posts which mainly changed in what travel that they offered.
There first options where only available in 100mm and 125mm travel with a specific 150mm XL version released.
They have then released the 120mm & 150mm options with a 170mm XL version.
Not a whole lot changed in the internals.

Plus I get £10 off when I spend over £50 just need to measure and choose one, how hard are these to install myself or would a trip to the local bike shop be a good idea, I'm not adverse to bike stuff..

 

[DereksDontRun]

But none of those 3 bikes come close to the ride that is the Shan

ok, without talking myself into a future build... What's put me off the Shan (or Orange P7, Ragley etc.) is the steel longevity. The last steel bike I owned was when I was a kid, and I remember it being a rusty mess... Sure, it's more compliant than aluminium, but it will still rust, and we're in UK with lots of wet riding. So, what's stopping you running about with a touch-up pen after every rock-strike?

 

[rhysduck]

ok, without talking myself into a future build... What's put me off the Shan (or Orange P7, Ragley etc.) is the steel longevity. The last steel bike I owned was when I was a kid, and I remember it being a rusty mess... Sure, it's more compliant than aluminium, but it will still rust, and we're in UK with lots of wet riding. So, what's stopping you running about with a touch-up pen after every rock-strike?

Both Shan's that I've owned have had zero issues with rust. The inside tubes are coated and the outside is coated, painted and clear coated I believe. Plus both of mine have been invisframed from new so that's extra protection there.

There's nothing stopping you riding around with a touch pen, but if you're doing that or worried too much about that type of stuff then you're doing it wrong, very wrong.

PS: Both of my mates Shans (1 HT and 1 FS) also have zero issues with rust and such... Plus we both live in South Wales where it's wet 98% of the year.

 

[DereksDontRun]

argh, you've got me looking at that Shan GT frame again... weirdly there's no shipping cost on the PP website going to UK, surely that's wrong?

it's an expensive route, as I've already told myself that if I'm building a bike then I might as well get a new 160mm fork for my Jeffsy, and use that 150mm Fox34 in a HT. (and eventually change the rear shock on the Jeffy to a coil and give it 160 there too)

need to stop looking... we're thinking about moving house, so I cant justify that cash on a backup bike...

 

[Django x2]

Shan PP is an epic bike. I have two. However, also look at the BIRD AM Zero. You'll need to size it right (compared to the PPS) but it's both an outstanding and astounding bike and not to be ruled out when looking at AggHT or Enduro

 

[katinacooker]

Just buy a new bike dude

well that was the plan originally, but we're on a somewhat limited income, hence the cheaper bike in the first place. Cheaper to spend a couple of hundred quid every few months when we can spare it i guess. Also i cant deny the satisfaction of having "put it together myself". Its a little like my desktop that way, and i've pretty much traded making small changes to my desktop for making changes to the bike!

 

[DereksDontRun]

Shan PP is an epic bike. I have two. However, also look at the BIRD AM Zero. You'll need to size it right (compared to the PPS) but it's both an outstanding and astounding bike and not to be ruled out when looking at AggHT or Enduro

yeah, i had a quick look at the Zero AM. For some reason, I felt it was just too expensive for an 6061 aluminium frame. for £400 there's a Nukeproof Scout frame, or £350 for Commencal Meta HT AM frame. And the Zero is £530 inc axle, headset and seatclamp (to match the Nukeproof frame). Might as well spend a little more and go for the Shan for that... For the cost of the Bird (or Shan) build, it makes the Whyte 905 seem like a bargain. But, the Shan looks epic...

If PP have just been bought out by that new Forestal startup - will that mean a change to future Shans? (for better or worse...)

 

[Django x2]

yeah, i had a quick look at the Zero AM. For some reason, I felt it was just too expensive for an 6061 aluminium frame. for £400 there's a Nukeproof Scout frame, or £350 for Commencal Meta HT AM frame. And the Zero is £530 inc axle, headset and seatclamp (to match the Nukeproof frame). Might as well spend a little more and go for the Shan for that... For the cost of the Bird (or Shan) build, it makes the Whyte 905 seem like a bargain. But, the Shan looks epic...

If PP have just been bought out by that new Forestal startup - will that mean a change to future Shans? (for better or worse...)

I think it's more or a collaboration. Certainly Titanium frames are on the horizon. I also have (built) an AM Zero for the other half. When you've got it between your legs, so to speak, that's when you realise it can easily hold its own against the Shan

 

[DereksDontRun]

I think it's more or a collaboration. Certainly Titanium frames are on the horizon. I also have (built) an AM Zero for the other half. When you've got it between your legs, so to speak, that's when you realise it can easily hold its own against the Shan

I thought it was only a colab too, but this article says:

Production bikes will be made of carbon fibre, laid up at a custom manufacturing facility in Andorra, the same facility that Production Privée frames will be made in the future. Yes, Forestal had also incidentally bought my favourite steel frame maker!

so, this suggests more to it