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The RX Vega 56 Owners Thread

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Do this at your own risk! The below process is from what I recall doing a while ago, so I hope it's accurate.

Ensure you take all the usual precautionary measures such as not overwriting the default BIOS, backup the original BIOS, etc. For the BIOS file to be flashed, make sure you've extracted it from any zipped folders and save it to the ATIFlash folder.

I used version 2.84 of ATIFlash, but it was a while ago so not sure if Windows 10 updates have changed anything.

Using command prompt in administrator mode, navigate to the folder with ATIFlash and new BIOS file, then enter the following command:

"0" represents the 1st PCIe slot, so make sure you change this depending on which slot your GPU is in.
"nameofbiosfile" must be changed to the full name of the BIOS file you'll be flashing to the GPU (including the file extension".

After a successful BIOS flash, do a clean reinstall of the GPU drivers.

Gotcha on that, i saw some videos about doing it this way but i'd rather do it with the ATIFlashTool (latest version is 2.93 as of last week). I'll look into this a bit more sometime next week. I just dont wana mess it up :)

One of the vBIOS's is write protected from what i read, also both of my vBIOS's seem exactly the same, is this normal?

Thanks for the info though, appreciated :)
 
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One of the vBIOS's is write protected from what i read, also both of my vBIOS's seem exactly the same, is this normal?
I thought they tended to have different settings from one another (e.g. quiet vs performance). I guess the AIB could choose anything really, so a backup BIOS with same settings as main BIOS is possible. I saw some cards in the past even advertised as having a "Mining BIOS" and a "Gaming BIOS".
 
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I thought they tended to have different settings from one another (e.g. quiet vs performance). I guess the AIB could choose anything really, so a backup BIOS with same settings as main BIOS is possible. I saw some cards in the past even advertised as having a "Mining BIOS" and a "Gaming BIOS".

Yea its weird as i thought the same, booted up into both and cant see any different between the two, clock speeds, fan curves, nothing. I was honestly expecting to see a Quiet option like my RX 480 had.

:confused:
 
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Do this at your own risk! The below process is from what I recall doing a while ago, so I hope it's accurate.

Ensure you take all the usual precautionary measures such as not overwriting the default BIOS, backup the original BIOS, etc. For the BIOS file to be flashed, make sure you've extracted it from any zipped folders and save it to the ATIFlash folder.

I used version 2.84 of ATIFlash, but it was a while ago so not sure if Windows 10 updates have changed anything.

Using command prompt in administrator mode, navigate to the folder with ATIFlash and new BIOS file, then enter the following command:

"0" represents the 1st PCIe slot, so make sure you change this depending on which slot your GPU is in.
"nameofbiosfile" must be changed to the full name of the BIOS file you'll be flashing to the GPU (including the file extension".

After a successful BIOS flash, do a clean reinstall of the GPU drivers.

IS it actually worth it though? According to these benchmarks, seemingly no:


Although this guy seemingly got a little better results:


I'd love to hear other peoples experiences.

This is the most impressive overclock with powerplay tables although potentially limiting the life span of the card:

 
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IS it actually worth it though?
I think it's totally up to each individual. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who isn't comfortable with the process.

However, I bought this GPU because I wanted to try to flash a Vega 64 BIOS onto it. Similarly, flashing an RX 5700 XT BIOS to the non-XT version sounds interesting to me, so I'd probably give that a try if I can find a deal on one of the decent models.

IIRC, the main differences the Vega 64 BIOS had were the fixed 1.35V HBM2 voltage and the increased power limits. But just because you flashed a Vega 64 BIOS and you have an increased power limit, this doesn't mean you need to use the new max power limit.

It's been a while since I actually bothered to check, but in terms of overclocks, I think I had HBM2 at 1125MHz and GPU core averaging in the mid to high 1500MHz range (not WattMan setting) at a power limit of +5%. Temperatures were between 60°C to 65°C on the GPU core under load. I could have increased the power limit to about +20% and the GPU core would consistently stay over 1600MHz under load, but I didn't think it was worth it at the time. There were definitely diminishing returns in frequency gains when I increased the limit beyond ~+25%. Silicon lottery would play a large part here though.
 
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Hi,

I had a play around with my 56 Pulse again last night and managed to get it to sit just above 1600MHZ in game which has made a noticeable difference to frame rates but at the cost of 250W and mid 70c's

Is the temp and power draw OK?

I was considering selling up for a 5700XT but its hard to say what performance gain I will get with mine at the above settings
Check through my previous posts mate, I have posted my Pulse settings...1637MHz core and 945MHz HBM. Firestrike load is 208W which the pulse cooling can easily manage at a max fan speed of 60%. Download GPU-Z tho and keep an eye on your GPU Hot Spot temp whilst overclocking. Im assuming 70c is your GPU temp rather than ur hot spot temp..U need to keep the hotspot under 105c..circa 90c is ideal and circa 210w for longevity of the cards HBM, Silicon and power delivery.
 
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IS it actually worth it though? According to these benchmarks, seemingly no:


Although this guy seemingly got a little better results:


I'd love to hear other peoples experiences.

This is the most impressive overclock with powerplay tables although potentially limiting the life span of the card:

(Sure you got involved in this debate Andrew. Check posts towards the bottom of page 143 and work from there. 5t3v0 and I spent time benchmarking and overclocking. I think it's safe to assume (in the most part), circa 1630MHz on the vega 56 core becomes the point of diminishing returns. Add whatever you can overclock your HBM to, and I would leave it at that. A bios flash on your vega 56 to a vega 64 will allow a further overclock of your HBM due to an increase of volts. Those extra volts will however create additional heat and might even reduce your core overclock. Coupled with the fact the vega 56 has 512 less shaders than the vega 64, a bios flash in my opinion is a bit of a gamble. My HBM as an example maxes out at 945MHz, 5t3v0 can get 980MHz on his...we both have samsung memory. With a vega 64 bios flash I might be able to overclock my memory to circa 980MHz and maintain my core overclock. 5t3v0 shows no worthwhile performance increase in that comparison. For me a bios flash to a vega 64 is not worth it.
 
Soldato
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Check through my previous posts mate, I have posted my Pulse settings...1637MHz core and 945MHz HBM. Firestrike load is 208W which the pulse cooling can easily manage at a max fan speed of 60%. Download GPU-Z tho and keep an eye on your GPU Hot Spot temp whilst overclocking. Im assuming 70c is your GPU temp rather than ur hot spot temp..U need to keep the hotspot under 105c..circa 90c is ideal and circa 210w for longevity of the cards HBM, Silicon and power delivery.

Thanks, I've done a bit more messing around since my last post and got power draw down to 200W, temps low 70c's and 1600mhz - That'll do for now I think as its running nicely at the moment
 
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I have a Vega pulse 56 GPU that's running a bit hot when overclocked. I'm thinking replacing the thermal paste and pads would help a little but not sure if doing so voids the warranty?
 
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I have a Vega pulse 56 GPU that's running a bit hot when overclocked. I'm thinking replacing the thermal paste and pads would help a little but not sure if doing so voids the warranty?

I haven't read the laws regarding that but will paraphrase Steve from GN. According to him the laws in the US and EU are that a customer has the right to service his GPU (and hardware in general) and repasting/repadding is part of that service. He even made a fuss when doing a tear down of some of the GPUs they sent him that had the well known warranty sticker circles over one of the cooler mount screws. As far as I remember he said it's illegal to sell GPUs that have such a sticker in the EU/US. So in theory you should, but don't take my word for it. However, if you damage it while in the process due to mishandling, that will not fall under warranty I think.

On that note I asked a while ago here if anyone has come across a tear down / repasting video for the Pulse 56, since I couldn't find any. I know it should be pretty straightforward but still when doing a disassembly for something for the first time I like watching the video of how it's done.
 
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Has anyone flashed a 64 bios to a sapphire pulse 56? which bios did you use? and was the performance bump worth it?
is there a way to get the extra performance instead of flashing the bios?
Im on stock atm playing at 1440p
 
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Has anyone flashed a 64 bios to a sapphire pulse 56? which bios did you use? and was the performance bump worth it?
is there a way to get the extra performance instead of flashing the bios?
Im on stock atm playing at 1440p

Undervolting, overclocking and increasing power limit gets close. Using powerplay mods and putting more power through it goes beyond a 64 and can get it upto 2070 levels
 
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Guys and girls, I have a MSI Vega56 - got it not long ago, really impressed with it when it doesn't crap out - I know its just settings related, I'm running three 1080p monitors in portrait mode and do light gaming, specifically Gears 4 at the moment.

I've undervolted using dankeeys settings for the +15 power setting (the number 1 on his list) , but I need to understand exactly what I'm doing, it works most of the time, then the game will crash/not load, so I have to reset/restart the PC.

has anyone got a link which tells me what each setting is, or should be.

I've noticed I can't change the voltage on the HBM2 as its linked to the Processor power.
I'm assuming I need to keep increasing the HMB2 mhz until mines stable? or have I got that wrong?

Thank you for any guidance, it'll be appreciated.


Hahaha, yes you did mate although I wasn't aware this was a competition ;)

So I decided to give your settings a try and and **** the bed!, FPS performance came out par with my profile of 1652/980/1025mV/50%PL which was 3C hotter and consumed +15W. I was able to better it even further by upping my HBM2 to its max stable 980MHz setting which put it on par between my 1662 and 1772 MHz profiles which are more power hungry and hotter still. This surprised me as my previous testing with lower power limits showed big sacrifices in FPS with PLs below 50%.

I've added the 2 new tests to my table (blue fill) and ranked the 4 metrics; FPS, Power, Temp & Fan Speed. In order to combine the ranks into a single score and find a clear winner, I've weighted the FPS rank by 75% to reflect the higher priority (to me) of this metric - the remaining metrics are summed, multiplied by 25% and added to the FPS score to give an overall score. When the overall score is ranked, the best custom profile to balance performance against power/temp/noise is... wait for it .... 1637/980/1010mV/15%PL. No need for any more "I told you so" now please ;)

What's great about this card and AMD driver combo, is that there's a variety of ways to achieve a particular performance goal which makes it a lot of fun to own. I am a bit concerned though that it's nearing it's EOL at 1440p Ultra after both DX12 titles I've been playing (Division 2 and Gears 5) only average 55-65 FPS. Let's wait and see what AMD have in store for us next year....

Vega56-Gears5-Table2.jpg


Edit: Further comparative testing between the 1637 and 1662 MHz profiles shows no frame rate loss in World War Z (Vulcan) or Gears of War 4 (DX12) and only a 0.5 FPS (1%) drop in the Superposition OpenGL test. The Division 2 (DX12) however drops 5 FPS to 54 FPS average (8.5%) and is stuttering noticeably more so I'm still going to need to keep the big MHz for the games that need it, or start accepting some dialling down of the graphics quality

Edit2: Further testing on Division 2 last night revealed better performance and lower power/temp with the 1622/980/950mV/50%PL profile than with 1637/980/1010mV/15%PL: 1637 = 64 FPS, 1622 = 68 FPS, 1662 = 69 FPS. So it would appear that there is no single profile that optimises performance/power for all titles and that profiles will need to be tested against each new title to find the best one.
 
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I've undervolted using dankeeys settings for the +15 power setting (the number 1 on his list) , but I need to understand exactly what I'm doing, it works most of the time, then the game will crash/not load, so I have to reset/restart the PC.

has anyone got a link which tells me what each setting is, or should be.

I've noticed I can't change the voltage on the HBM2 as its linked to the Processor power.
I'm assuming I need to keep increasing the HMB2 mhz until mines stable? or have I got that wrong?

IMO for anything above 1600 mhz (or in other words above stock overclocking) will require adequate and gradual change of settings and NOT using someone elses settings which might or might not be stable for your card. When you say "the number 1 on his list" do you mean the first line of the list or the one which is number one for "Overall Rank"? Because the latter is overclocked and pretty undervolted. For my vega 56 I think those settings would be unstable and would crash on benchmarks for example. Better avoid using other people settings unless they are very liberal, for example 1.1v core voltage for a vega 56 P-state is pretty big in terms that usually people COULD achieve much lower, yet it's still undervolting by 0.1v from the stock 1.2v. Have a read through this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/71978a/psa_lazy_mans_guide_to_tweaking_your_gpu_rx_vega/

It's useful if you want to understand vega settings, and test them correctly. One thing I would suggest though when doing all that is something that probably wasn't available while this guy was doing his guide. In this guide he says that you can only change P6/P7 states which isn't true anymore. You can change them all and what's more you can right click and lock whichever state you want as minimum. For example if you want to test if 1650 mhz at 1.05v is stable you can just set those values at P7 in Wattman, then right click P7 -> set as minimum state. The card will run at 1650mhz/1.05v and a couple of benchmarks will tell you if that's a stable value. If it crashes, rinse and repeat.

About HBM, yes, you should increase it until it becomes unstable. The voltage there is locked. Also when you ask for a link that explains for what is each setting, do you mean the P1-P7 states with frequency/voltage, fan curve, HBM clock, power limit... those?
 
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What's the consensus on cooling these cards?

Are the blower fans adequate or are the 3rd party cards with larger coolers a better idea?

What about water-cooling, is it worth doing? If so, is a full-cover water block necessary or is sticking an AIO on the GPU good enough?
 
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IMO for anything above 1600 mhz (or in other words above stock overclocking) will require adequate and gradual change of settings and NOT using someone elses settings which might or might not be stable for your card. When you say "the number 1 on his list" do you mean the first line of the list or the one which is number one for "Overall Rank"? Because the latter is overclocked and pretty undervolted. For my vega 56 I think those settings would be unstable and would crash on benchmarks for example. Better avoid using other people settings unless they are very liberal, for example 1.1v core voltage for a vega 56 P-state is pretty big in terms the usually people COULD achieve much lower, yet it's still undervolting by 0.1v from the stock 1.2v. Have a read through this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/71978a/psa_lazy_mans_guide_to_tweaking_your_gpu_rx_vega/

It's useful if you want to understand vega settings, and test them correctly. One thing I would suggest though when doing all that is something that probably wasn't available while this guy was doing his guide. In this guide he states that you can only change P6/P7 states which isn't true anymore. You can change them all and what's more you can right click and lock whichever state you want as minimum. For example if you want to test if 1650 mhz at 1.05v is stable you can just set those values at P7 in Wattman, then right click P7 -> set as minimum state. The card will run at 1650mhz/1.05v and a couple of benchmarks will tell you if that's a stable value. If it crashes, rinse and repeat.

About HBM, yes, you should increase it until it becomes unstable. The voltage there is locked. Also when you ask for a link that explains for what is each setting, do you mean the P1-P7 states with frequency/voltage, fan curve, HBM clock, power limit... those?


Thank you, I'll have a read of the reddit threat.

I used number one on the overall rank, and it worked fine whilst doing some bench-marking. Just crashed the gears game a few times after playing for half an hour or so, I'll keep an eye on temps etc.

I wanted the and understanding of the HBM clock and different states and how they were linked, basically what the undervolting actually does to the card - so it I apply a p7 state at 1650mhz with a voltage of 1.05v why am I doing that etc.

Thanks :)
 
Soldato
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I used number one on the overall rank, and it worked fine whilst doing some bench-marking. Just crashed the gears game a few times after playing for half an hour or so, I'll keep an eye on temps etc.

Try setting your fan to 80% or something high during your gaming and see if it doesnt crash. If it doesnt then its an airflow item. Other option is to dial back the core and memory a tad (create a profile just to game with) for gaming.
 
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