How would you address this electrical issue?

[Cookeh]

Whilst tracking down an intermediate ABS error, I discovered the following break in the insulation of two wires between the ABS module and the pump.

Insulation break

My initial plan was to de-pin the terminals and add a layer of heat shrink over each of the two wires, then use either loom tape or another bit of heatshrink tubing to keep the two cables together.

Unfortunately the second I touched the cables today the insulation disintegrated, leaving me with two bare wires. To further compound the problem, after de-pinning the terminal I was met with weatherproofing insulation that is significantly larger than the diameter of the cables. Even if I were to separate the cables I would not be able to get heatshrink over the weatherproofing.

Pin style and disintegrated insulation

My plan now is to cut the cables in the middle, add heatshrink to either side of the cut, and then solder the cables together again, using another piece of heatshrink to cover the solder repair.

Does this sound sensible? How would you approach this scenario? Replacing the pump is a rather involved job, obviously, and given the youngest P80 850 or S/V70 with a suitable pump is 20 years old the insulation is likely to be in similar condition. These parts are not available new either.

Thanks in advance!

 

[bremen1874]

You could use some suitably small spiral wrap on each wire and then tape over that, possibly with self-amalgamating tape.

 

[acemastr]

I wouldn't solder it, the joint won't like the movement/hot/cold.

I'd go tape route.

 

[Cookeh]

Could butt connectors or crimped spade connectors be a better option than solder?

Struggling at the minute to find small enough spiral wrap, though some less half-assed searching may yield some results. I'm sort of hoping to either address the issue with things I have on hand (heatshrink and solder) or are locally available (whatever motor factors or electrical suppliers might have).

Given the lack of availability regarding replacement parts I'd like to make it as permanent a repair as possible.

 

[theone8181]

Can you use large diameter heatshrink, and shrink one end onto the edge of the connector and Tywrapp the other (sounds a bit rough I know).

 

[leezer3]

None of the above...

The insulation on these is clearly well past the sellby date, so replace the entire pair throughout the run.
Yes, it'll probably be a pig, but do the job once and properly.

 

[Heisenberg]

The best method for a wire repair are these heat shrink crimp connectors. It's how Volkswagen train techs to repair wiring.

www.heamar.co.uk/heat-gun-nozzles-accessories/74032-steinel-heat-shrink-crimp-connectors-with-integrated-adhesive-0-1-6-0-mm-4007841006662.html?gmc=3&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtrnuBRDXARIsABiN-7BSgNE2ksdRU_cR9u1B6T_ntv6OWW79kjnrQfRC2jb9nmPmD2gMzwoaAnF5EALw_wcB

 

[-westy-]

None of the above...

The insulation on these is clearly well past the sellby date, so replace the entire pair throughout the run.
Yes, it'll probably be a pig, but do the job once and properly.

This.

 

[jpaul]

lots of google hits on this yes ? - writing this post took longer -
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/172357-abs-pump-wire-insulation-dissolving-sos/ "v70 abs pump insulation"

if you had a well insulated piece of wire to solder onto thats what I'd do - galvanic corrosion's main risk no ? and makes sure you clean off flux with IPA.
use a piece of insulation slavaged from an electric cable and then wrap with self-amalgamating - great stuff

 

[Cookeh]

Yeah, that's one of the three threads I've been bouncing back and forth between. It seems like both soldering (heatshrink self-solder connectors or traditional methods) in addition to simply re-sleeving are both valid options according to said threads, but neither reported on longevity - even in the case where the ABS issue was not solved.

The idea of soldering on new cable is great in theory as guarantees good insulation, but does not hold in practice as I cannot replace the weatherproofing on the pins - at least I cannot find it online! That would then require two solder joints which then mean double the potential failure points in heatcycles/vibrations.

 

[Scania]

None of the above...

The insulation on these is clearly well past the sellby date, so replace the entire pair throughout the run.
Yes, it'll probably be a pig, but do the job once and properly.

This.

Bodge to get you home, but no further.

 

[Frozennova]

I would cut, strip and join with open barrel splices and insulate with a good adhesive lined heatshrink (Raychem SCL)

 

[Cookeh]

Thank you all for the suggestions, much appreciated and as a result of it I've come across much better ways of doing things and indeed better materials.

 

[IAmATeaf]

Can the pins not be removed from the connectors? If so I’d be inclined to get some rubber sleeving from an electrical supplier and use it to insulate the wires. Push it back as far as it can be pushed back into the pump. Shrink wrap is fairy inflexible and doesn’t like being moved so at the pump end I would put a small piece. I’d then get some wider electrical sleeving and put it over both wires and again push it back as far as it will go. Then possibly another piece of heat shrink on the end with the connectors.

Bit of a faff but you’d only be able to do this with the pump removed.

 

[red eye]

Whilst tracking down an intermediate ABS error, I discovered the following break in the insulation of two wires between the ABS module and the pump.

Insulation break

My initial plan was to de-pin the terminals and add a layer of heat shrink over each of the two wires, then use either loom tape or another bit of heatshrink tubing to keep the two cables together.

Unfortunately the second I touched the cables today the insulation disintegrated, leaving me with two bare wires. To further compound the problem, after de-pinning the terminal I was met with weatherproofing insulation that is significantly larger than the diameter of the cables. Even if I were to separate the cables I would not be able to get heatshrink over the weatherproofing.

Pin style and disintegrated insulation

My plan now is to cut the cables in the middle, add heatshrink to either side of the cut, and then solder the cables together again, using another piece of heatshrink to cover the solder repair.

Does this sound sensible? How would you approach this scenario? Replacing the pump is a rather involved job, obviously, and given the youngest P80 850 or S/V70 with a suitable pump is 20 years old the insulation is likely to be in similar condition. These parts are not available new either.

Thanks in advance!

I would replace as much of the cable as possible. Plug to pump, once part of it disintegrates it won’t be long for the rest to follow

 

[Cookeh]

Can the pins not be removed from the connectors? If so I’d be inclined to get some rubber sleeving from an electrical supplier and use it to insulate the wires. Push it back as far as it can be pushed back into the pump. Shrink wrap is fairy inflexible and doesn’t like being moved so at the pump end I would put a small piece. I’d then get some wider electrical sleeving and put it over both wires and again push it back as far as it will go. Then possibly another piece of heat shrink on the end with the connectors.

Pictures shown are the pins removed from the connector. Can't remember what those insulation jackets are called and don't know if they are replaceable so not keen on cutting them at the minute. That would be by far the easiest method though. The cables terminate about 1cm further up into the black plastic cup, so very easy to reach their start point.

 

[IAmATeaf]

I wouldn’t cut them, they must be clipped in somehow, normally by a small tab, depress the tab and you should be able to put the wire out.

 

[HoneyBadger]

I’d buy a new car, yours is clearly a write off

 

[Cookeh]

I wouldn’t cut them, they must be clipped in somehow, normally by a small tab, depress the tab and you should be able to put the wire out.

Had a look for that, seems they're moulded on. I could get those pins out of the connector terminal, but can't seem to get the insulation off the wires non destructively. If I could recall what they're called or find a source for them I'd just cut them off and rubber sleeve the wires.

I’d buy a new car, yours is clearly a write off

I think that everytime the ABS light comes on.

 

[jpaul]

Do the moulded plugs go in full depth ? or could you dremel/hsaw the back off, hoping to expose enough to connect too, & put a small bolt through the steel if its not solderable.
cutting the insulation in the direction of the wire with a scalpel worked for me when I wanted to graft an audio aux in into a cd multi-changer lead.