Damp

[joelk2]

so rather than overtake the condensation thread i thought id post my own thread.

outline.

victorian house
solid brick walls.
lime mortar presumably

previous owners have replastered a number of times using normal plaster.

getting damp on some walls. which i can only presume is penetrating damp.

would something like this be a bad idea?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/thompsons-water-seal-clear-5ltr/52043

 

[Slade2]

nope, don't do that. You need to find out where the water is coming from and deal with the source of the water. Ventilation,Ventilation and more Ventilation is what is needed especially in an old solid brick Victorian house.

If you seal the outside of the bricks the water that is in the bricks doesn't have anywhere to get out which then in this weather will mean it starts to freeze, this is ok for a season or two but it will eventually start to push the front of the bricks off and cause them to spall.

check the whole of the external of your house and ensure that there is no way for water to get anywhere near the walls of the house. Check all the rain water goods and ensure they are all working and ensure there is no splashback from water hitting the floor and splashing on the wall. Check that the windows have been fitted correctly and there are no crack or anything externally that might let water in.

 

[joelk2]

nope, don't do that. You need to find out where the water is coming from and deal with the source of the water. Ventilation,Ventilation and more Ventilation is what is needed especially in an old solid brick Victorian house.

If you seal the outside of the bricks the water that is in the bricks doesn't have anywhere to get out which then in this weather will mean it starts to freeze, this is ok for a season or two but it will eventually start to push the front of the bricks off and cause them to spall.

check the whole of the external of your house and ensure that there is no way for water to get anywhere near the walls of the house. Check all the rain water goods and ensure they are all working and ensure there is no splashback from water hitting the floor and splashing on the wall. Check that the windows have been fitted correctly and there are no crack or anything externally that might let water in.

Cheers

Were in a semi and it's on the gable end of the house. We have a small path down that side of the house and then the neighbors house.

Its the upper levels which seem the worse. Maybe needs repointing?! Hmm. Sounds expensive. Especially with lime mortar.

 

[Kill_Phil]

@joelk2 yeah will likely be pointing but also look for frost damaged bricks too. If possible also check guttering etc but trying to pinpoint the source is important, albeit can be a right pain to do so!

But as slade said ventilation is key; generally those type of houses aren't cut out for modern day living. Also worthwhile considering a dehumidifier to see if makes a difference.

 

[Orionaut]

Just to reiterate.

Do not, under any circumstances, apply any form of waterproofing/chemical DPC/Whatever to a house built with lime mortar.

It isn't necessary and can (Will eventually) cause serious damage.

 

[joelk2]

Cheers and noted. Might bite the bullet and order a scaffold tower when the weather is better and repoint the house. I doubt for a second it's ever been done. I've still got the original roof tiles on the house.

I'd read all about the chemically injected dpc and won't be going for that. The in-laws live up the road and have 1 small damp patch and they were advised to go for it but I've said not too.

 

[Maccapacca]

If you don't have any mechanical ventilation then add a drimaster before anything.

I bet you have plastic windows in a house designed for timber and no ventilation. If its Victorian it probably had open fires which produce a flow and heat the fabric now probably blocked off.

 

[Gentwee]

If you don't have any mechanical ventilation then add a drimaster before anything.

I stuck one of those in my house last month and it seems to have solved my damp problems. Windows that always had condensation on them now have none. I'd definitely look into these yourself.

 

[joelk2]

If you don't have any mechanical ventilation then add a drimaster before anything.

I bet you have plastic windows in a house designed for timber and no ventilation. If its Victorian it probably had open fires which produce a flow and heat the fabric now probably blocked off.

I stuck one of those in my house last month and it seems to have solved my damp problems. Windows that always had condensation on them now have none. I'd definitely look into these yourself.

Thanks both. Just looking into them now. Is the heat version needed? Do you just diy install it?

Damp upstairs is deffo an issue. Pvc windows with no trickle vents either.

 

[DarrenM343]

I used Envirovent as I struggled to find an installer for the Nuaire stuff. No good at DIY and 200 miles from the property. Wish I had tried a little harder now as the Envirovent was not cheap and was a real PITA to get them to actually do the work once an order and deposit placed. They get mixed reviews but so far no complaints on their tech. As well as a PIV they fitted automatic extractors in both the kitchen and bathroom, ramping up and down depending on the humidity levels. It's a ground floor flat in an 18th centruary Chapel conversion. Condensation seems to have been the issue.

 

[Maccapacca]

Thanks both. Just looking into them now. Is the heat version needed? Do you just diy install it?

Damp upstairs is deffo an issue. Pvc windows with no trickle vents either.

Heat version will be more expensive to buy and run so it's up to you really.

I fitted mine with a jab saw for the plasterboard and the power was no more difficult than wiring a plug but it depends on what you have in the loft. Luckily I had a lighting circuit up there.

Problem solved overnight really.

All properties need ventilation of some sort. Good quality modern have a heat recovery system keeping the heat in and moisture out.

The drimaster you can keep turning down till you see moisture again then notch it up one to keep it working as you like.

 

[joelk2]

Heat version will be more expensive to buy and run so it's up to you really.

I fitted mine with a jab saw for the plasterboard and the power was no more difficult than wiring a plug but it depends on what you have in the loft. Luckily I had a lighting circuit up there.

Problem solved overnight really.

All properties need ventilation of some sort. Good quality modern have a heat recovery system keeping the heat in and moisture out.

The drimaster you can keep turning down till you see moisture again then notch it up one to keep it working as you like.

Cheers.

Have power in the loft for the alarm so that's no bother.

Do I need any of the controls or humidity sensors?

 

[Maccapacca]

Cheers.

Have power in the loft for the alarm so that's no bother.

Do I need any of the controls or humidity sensors?

That's up to you, just more features and install really.

Once it's set on a trickle it shouldn't need messing around with plus if the lofts warm it'll turn off.

 

[jpaul]

big earlier thread on drimaster / piv
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/double-glazing-condensation.18799212/page-5

 

[joelk2]

im sold, thanks for the help guys. showed the wife a youtube video of it and she was instantly sold too. so much for my no DIY over the festive season.

we've decided on the heated version. the house is cold enough as it is without pumping more cold air in.

 

[Gentwee]

Just bare in mind the heated version only heat the air up by a few degrees so over winter it's still going to be blowing in cold air. I went for the normal one for this reason.

 

[joelk2]

Just bare in mind the heated version only heat the air up by a few degrees so over winter it's still going to be blowing in cold air. I went for the normal one for this reason.

Any heating is better than none. Have yuo found that it's helped with your condensation?

 

[Gentwee]

It's helped a lot, all windows being permanently free of condensation is the biggest change. The damp walls have improved a lot too. I'm leaving it for longer before I declare them fixed.

 

[joelk2]

It's helped a lot, all windows being permanently free of condensation is the biggest change. The damp walls have improved a lot too. I'm leaving it for longer before I declare them fixed.

I've read it takes 6 weeks to dry out the house.

Now. How does it work exactly? Its just pumping air into the house. Do I need to leave a window open, leave them closed? What's the deal?

 

[Slade2]

the analogy I often use is your house is like a big balloon with lots of little holes in it. The fan is just trying to blow up the balloon. The reason it works so well its that wall and stuff in the way help to circulate the cool area into area that normally don't get any fresh air. Condensation only happens when you have warm air hitting cold surfaces, i.e on windows and even some external walls if they are cold enough. The act of circulating air around the house shouldn't allow the warmish air to stay around long enough for it to release its moisture. You shouldn't need to open window much but keeping the doors upstairs open or at least ajar a bit will help. Also, move any furniture away from the damp walls to allow any moisture trapped behind to be picked up by the passing air. I am in exactly the same position as you are I have a 1960`s semi that had cavity wall insulation a while back and the house wasn't designed for modern living. I am planning on at least one of the nuaire loft systems in the new year as well.