Full new system needed £3k to £4k

Soldato
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The build below includes a high refresh 4K monitor.

While it has a high-end GPU, you should know that Nvidia are expected to release their next GPUs later this year and you should expect to replace the GPU I've listed. The Zotac triple fan is overpriced compared to the plain model.

I've gone for 32 GB and a 12 core CPU to give you longevity. You could drop to 16 GB and switch to the Gigabyte X570 motherboard.

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £3,690.42 (includes shipping: £33.54)​
 
Soldato
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It also includes an additional ultra-wide monitor and two different GPU's. :p

If you're talking about the Zotac Triple Fan 2080S I linked, it's only a tenner more than the MSI Ventus and has a 5 year warranty vs the 3 for the MSI. Mind you, I've seen the exact same Zotac model for around £600, along with a few other 2080S models.
 
Soldato
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Oops!
It's £90 more than the model I listed.

There's either something wrong with what you're seeing or something wrong with what I'm seeing:

msizotaz.jpg


£649.99 vs £659.99
 
Soldato
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I'm not disagreeing with you - I'm just purely specing him the BEST and most future proof today, Whilst a 750w PSU is fine today the options a 1200w would offer op are much better for longevity.
In that case I recommend this for your car:
http://www.emma-maersk.com/engine/Wartsila_Sulzer_RTA96-C.htm
After all you never know when you might need to tow whole city...

Though decade old 80+ Gold is far from the best and more proper one would be clearly good ol steam engine.
(&SuperFlower's 7 year warranty being only 5 years short of best)
It wouldn't even reach its best efficiency even during gaming.
And most of the time from usual PC's "powered on profile", it wouldn't even be 80+ PSU.

CPU power consumption hasn't gone really anywhere in long time.
And won't be increasing anywhere, except in Intel's emergency editions
Increasing thermal density from newer nodes is going to make keeping power consumption under control continuously more important.
(I wouldn't wonder any if it's at same level as in nuclear reactors)

And besides cooling challenges graphics card's have 300W as highest limit in PCI-express specification.
Multi-GPU again has been floating dead on water for far longer than MV Alta.
 
Soldato
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@Plec, @tamzzy , @EsaT , @Danny75 might be able to help with a full system - I'd wait until you get a few more ideas before committing to spending that amount of money. I'd do a build for you but I don't have the time right now.

@ExRayTed

This alert never came through. Just stumbled onto your post while reading this thread lol.

@lee32uk and @Gray2233 have put together very nice specs. For Lee's spec re: ARGB (also DRGB), I wonder if there'll be an issue because the single JRainbow connector on the B450 Pro Carbon supports up to 72 ARGB LEDs, and those CoolerMaster fans have 24 LEDs each (or at least the Halo meant for the rear does, not sure about the others). It might work or not. Just that the maths and what the manufacturers say doesn't add up. Of course you can use the case's integrated controller for some of the ARGB and the motherboard for the rest but then the lighting won't sync.

X570 Gaming X and X570 Aorus Elite have two Rainbow (Addressable) headers, if you don't want to take the risk.

Also see that the CoolerMaster case has an ARGB power button, and the AIO has an ARGB pump block making it 8 ARGB parts in total. The case brings a 3-way splitter already. You could use this EK splitter for the other 5 parts:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-d-rgb-6-way-splitter-cable-wc-9vx-ek.html

To make it a bit more confusing, CoolerMaster does not certify Gigabyte software for the fans (Masterfan MF120R ARGB) on the AIO. My guess is it probably works anyway. But it's fair to point out so you can find info on this if you go for that spec. Alternatively find an Asus X570 that also has two Addressable headers.
 
Soldato
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3,598
In that case I recommend this for your car:
http://www.emma-maersk.com/engine/Wartsila_Sulzer_RTA96-C.htm
After all you never know when you might need to tow whole city...

Though decade old 80+ Gold is far from the best and more proper one would be clearly good ol steam engine.
(&SuperFlower's 7 year warranty being only 5 years short of best)
It wouldn't even reach its best efficiency even during gaming.
And most of the time from usual PC's "powered on profile", it wouldn't even be 80+ PSU.

CPU power consumption hasn't gone really anywhere in long time.
And won't be increasing anywhere, except in Intel's emergency editions
Increasing thermal density from newer nodes is going to make keeping power consumption under control continuously more important.
(I wouldn't wonder any if it's at same level as in nuclear reactors)

And besides cooling challenges graphics card's have 300W as highest limit in PCI-express specification.
Multi-GPU again has been floating dead on water for far longer than MV Alta.

Disagree a good example is thread ripper and hedt intel - they've be known to consume some high wattage, with intel and and to continue the CPU core count it will gradually creep up. Everyone acting Asif I suggested a 2000w PSU... Christ.
 
Soldato
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11,618
Location
Finland
keyboard and mouse and 7.1 headset also so literally a full set up.
For keyboard you should try to get chance to test different switches.
If you've only used cheap membrane/rubber dome switch keyboards, mechanical switches differ vastly in their behaviour and feel.
In fact's there are even notable differences between different mechanical switches.
Though one thing is common for them:
All of them are noisier, because of having lot more moving parts (made from hard non-elastic materials) banging into each others.

Also keyboard profiles are usually high.
So if you like thinner, lower profile keyboard, there aren't much of mechanical switch choises.

For no experience user I would recommend "non-linear" switch:
Those have light initial travel, but bump in necessary force before switch reaches actuation and then low bottom keeping resistance.
Linear switch with decent feel before actuation point hace stronger bottoming force, while lighter bottoming force linear switch doesn't have much initial resistance.
That makes it less easy top avoid accidental key presses...
And you if you have to start consciously thinking about that and stressing fingers against that, your key pressing speed is certain to suffer lot.
Besides it being distraction from game:
Ideally you don't have to think it at all when you rest finger on key waiting for moment to press.

Also if you would like to avoid unnecessary noise there aren't much of options.
Most of the mechanical switches simply fail to give damn about noise.
Some even add extra noise effect for mechanical typewriter like ruckus.

Logitech's Omron made Romer-G is one of the rare switches with some damping for noise from ends of travel and has non-linear force curve.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/logi...cal-gaming-keyboard-920-008017-kb-259-lg.html
Cherry has also one in MX line, but's its light linear switch and could be hard to get used to.

For actually low profile mechanical switch Logitech has one new in G815 and G915 keyboards.


For mouse lot depends on your hand size and own preferences.
Though guess something like Logitech MX518 would be classic.


If you don't need microphone scrap term headset completely, which is used to sell gaming profit margin cheap Chinese productions.
And if you have quiet environment gaming stuff's usual design leaves lot to desire:
Open ear cup design doesn't isolate heat as much as closed design and causes less sweating.
Closed design needed for noise isolation in noisier environment isolates also more heat, especially if ear pads aren't breathing fabric/velour.
(also harder to balance for getting as accurate sound)

Anyway you can easily mod basically any headphone easily into headset with ModMic.
Good for gaming headphones from actual audio makers aren't even expensive.

I assume you would like good balance between "fun factor" aka bass and details.
For open design Beyerdynamic DT990 does that well.
Studio use aimed £100 Pro version has coiled cable, normal Edition has straight cable for couple dizens higher price.
For closed design DT770 does very well for closed design of its price. (80 ohm version comes with straight cable)
Also Beyer's replacement ear pads (those get dirty and wear) are vailable for very reasonable price.
So they're easy to keep going, unlike good luck for finding parts disposable gaming trinkets.


Other part of headphone gaming immersion is binaural sound signal:
We hear in 3D, because shape of the head (+pinnae) causes direction dependant changes to signal received by both ears from sound source.
Properly recorded or processed two channel signal can contain those spatial cues and when reproduced accurately enough can give very good immersion.
Most sound cards have had some kind algorithm (called HRTF) for modeling that for about 15 years.
Though despite of very hyped name for example Dolby Heaphone is far from good.

Creative has good binaural simulation algorithm and nowadays very good headphone outputs.
If you want internal sound card Sound BlasterX AE-5 is very well balanced.
For external USB sound card with direct control for disabling/enabling processing and volume, Sound BlasterX G6 is tech wise pretty equal.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/crea...aming-sound-card-70sb174000000-sc-104-cl.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/crea...-sound-card-pc-ps4-xbox-switch-sc-107-cl.html
 
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OP
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21 Feb 2020
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11
Location
Staffordshire
For keyboard you should try to get chance to test different switches.
If you've only used cheap membrane/rubber dome switch keyboards, mechanical switches differ vastly in their behaviour and feel.
In fact's there are even notable differences between different mechanical switches.
Though one thing is common for them:
All of them are noisier, because of having lot more moving parts (made from hard non-elastic materials) banging into each others.

Also keyboard profiles are usually high.
So if you like thinner, lower profile keyboard, there aren't much of mechanical switch choises.

For no experience user I would recommend "non-linear" switch:
Those have light initial travel, but bump in necessary force before switch reaches actuation and then low bottom keeping resistance.
Linear switch with decent feel before actuation point hace stronger bottoming force, while lighter bottoming force linear switch doesn't have much initial resistance.
That makes it less easy top avoid accidental key presses...
And you if you have to start consciously thinking about that and stressing fingers against that, your key pressing speed is certain to suffer lot.
Besides it being distraction from game:
Ideally you don't have to think it at all when you rest finger on key waiting for moment to press.

Also if you would like to avoid unnecessary noise there aren't much of options.
Most of the mechanical switches simply fail to give damn about noise.
Some even add extra noise effect for mechanical typewriter like ruckus.

Logitech's Omron made Romer-G is one of the rare switches with some damping for noise from ends of travel and has non-linear force curve.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/logi...cal-gaming-keyboard-920-008017-kb-259-lg.html
Cherry has also one in MX line, but's its light linear switch and could be hard to get used to.

For actually low profile mechanical switch Logitech has one new in G815 and G915 keyboards.


For mouse lot depends on your hand size and own preferences.
Though guess something like Logitech MX518 would be classic.


If you don't need microphone scrap term headset completely, which is used to sell gaming profit margin cheap Chinese productions.
And if you have quiet environment gaming stuff's usual design leaves lot to desire:
Open ear cup design doesn't isolate heat as much as closed design and causes less sweating.
Closed design needed for noise isolation in noisier environment isolates also more heat, especially if ear pads aren't breathing fabric/velour.
(also harder to balance for getting as accurate sound)

Anyway you can easily mod basically any headphone easily into headset with ModMic.
Good for gaming headphones from actual audio makers aren't even expensive.

I assume you would like good balance between "fun factor" aka bass and details.
For open design Beyerdynamic DT990 does that well.
Studio use aimed £100 Pro version has coiled cable, normal Edition has straight cable for couple dizens higher price.
For closed design DT770 does very well for closed design of its price. (80 ohm version comes with straight cable)
Also Beyer's replacement ear pads (those get dirty and wear) are vailable for very reasonable price.
So they're easy to keep going, unlike good luck for finding parts disposable gaming trinkets.


Other part of headphone gaming immersion is binaural sound signal:
We hear in 3D, because shape of the head (+pinnae) causes direction dependant changes to signal received by both ears from sound source.
Properly recorded or processed two channel signal can contain those spatial cues and when reproduced accurately enough can give very good immersion.
Most sound cards have had some kind algorithm (called HRTF) for modeling that for about 15 years.
Though despite of very hyped name for example Dolby Heaphone is far from good.

Creative has good binaural simulation algorithm and nowadays very good headphone outputs.
If you want internal sound card Sound BlasterX AE-5 is very well balanced.
For external USB sound card with direct control for disabling/enabling processing and volume, Sound BlasterX G6 is tech wise pretty equal.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/crea...aming-sound-card-70sb174000000-sc-104-cl.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/crea...-sound-card-pc-ps4-xbox-switch-sc-107-cl.html

I didn't even consider sound cards, can see how much the tech has come along with external sound cards looks really interesting especially given that sound is so important in the survival games I play, especially directional sound. Will definitely have a look at those headphones, any recommendations for low cost mic
 
Associate
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2,459
Location
Macclesfield
I've just been through the 8yr upgrade cycle myself, TBH I wouldn't have done it but for the fact my motherboard died and a replacement with Win7-64 as operating system really wasn't worth the hassle. So an all-new system it was. I suggest you forget the easy to add peripherals for now and concentrate on securing the basic items that won't be upgrading again any time soon - the case, motherboard, CPU, PSU and graphics card. My budget was about the same and I went for a 3960X threadripper, an Asus TRX40 Prime motherboard, and a LianLi OC11 XL case. I should mention I'm not really a PC gamer, hence my selection of an RTX2060 rather than a 2080Ti or something. The build included a new NVMe 1TB Samsung boot drive but I added a second Samsung 2TB NVMe as well (wasn't part of the original build, I just picked it up in a sale on here). The 3 and 4 TB mechanical hard drives from my old system were transferred (the only significant parts I've re-used), but one drive already been replaced with a 10TB Exos. I use two mirrored QNAP NAS's for bulk secure storage so it's no big worry having a drive fail in the PC itself. I needed to buy an external USB DVD R/W drive as the new cases don't tend to offer any front panel 5-1/4" drive bays, mine didn't anyway. Even my old SoundBlaster X-Fi card was useless because it uses a 5-1/4" front panel interface box so I'm using onborad sound at the moment. Stuff like that you can add at your leisure though, you don't need to tick all the boxes at the outset. Last was a fresh install of Win10 Pro and it's taken a solid week of work to get the major software packages I use installed and running. That was the real nightmare job - getting the software transferred/updated, and I'm still not finished yet.
 
Soldato
Joined
26 Aug 2013
Posts
8,393
@Danny75

Good spot on the RGB compatibility. Not really my strong point RGB, so good to have another pair of eyes looking over it :)

@lee32uk

It's a minefield alright. When I build for others and they want a mix of NZXT, Corsair iCue, all this stuff, I eventually convince them to go another route that I know 100% will work without issues (so far). And the info out there on compatibility (like using more LEDs on a 72 LED rated motherboard header), is not exhaustive or conclusive. Then you get stuff like CoolerMaster not including Gigabyte on its compatible motherboards list for some CoolerMaster products... and you think are they really incompatible, was it just an oversight, or did they later become compatible and CoolerMaster didn't update their webpage?
 
Soldato
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Posts
11,618
Location
Finland
I didn't even consider sound cards, can see how much the tech has come along with external sound cards looks really interesting especially given that sound is so important in the survival games I play, especially directional sound. Will definitely have a look at those headphones, any recommendations for low cost mic
Proper sound atmosphere is better especially for playing at night...

Shame not even 10% of effort put to improving graphics has been put to sounds.
By now we should have had for years listener's head shape customizable HRTF doing binaural sound simulation from direct 3D sound data of game.
That would give true 3D sound with also vertical positioning, unlike with discrete channel "surround" sound.
Much hyped Dolby Atmos is actually late and on PC we had that in DirectSound time with game sound hardware acceleration before Windows Vista.

Beyer's would be easy to DIY mic mod:
https://imgur.com/gallery/bKU4H
There's also commercial product from Antlion for modding any normal headphone into headset:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=antlion
 
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