Unless the battery is given a full charge first it will likely show as faulty due to not having sufficient charge in it. Drop testing a half full or less battery doesn't tell you the batteries condition, just it cant deliver very much power.
Battery struggles to charge on journeys
- Thread starter MrRockliffe
- Start date
Unless the battery is given a full charge first it will likely show as faulty due to not having sufficient charge in it. Drop testing a half full or less battery doesn't tell you the batteries condition, just it cant deliver very much power.
Been looking at replacements, and struggling to understand the price difference on a Bosch EFB Type 100 - £100 at some places, north of £200 in others.
Surely not the same one?
Surely not the same one?
you're comparing like with like ?, not efb versus agm technology, latter, might be better to upgrade to
eg. https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/car-battery-start-stop, https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/agm-efb-explained/
eg. https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/car-battery-start-stop, https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/agm-efb-explained/
yes looks the same, even with the usual ECP(&carparts4less) premium (must wait for a discount code) the difference is surprising ....
but ecp/cp4l have a price match guarantee ... and in case I need to use the 3 year guarantee, they, also have a local shop.
looks like agm ones £25 more have a 4 year guarantee - if you're keeping car ... so , I might evaluate that trade-off
but ecp/cp4l have a price match guarantee ... and in case I need to use the 3 year guarantee, they, also have a local shop.
looks like agm ones £25 more have a 4 year guarantee - if you're keeping car ... so , I might evaluate that trade-off
Are AGM ones much better?
I won't be buying anything yet, just doing research and getting a feel for options.
no looks like AGM charging is different to efb/flood so even if they are more resilient(to deep discharge apparently) can't change for one of them
looks like if you have a min/max voltmeter you can do a load test yourself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsJUuLu1cw0 ...
would be good if modern/ctek battery chargers, aapropriate for efb/agm had this built in. ...Anyone ?
looks like if you have a min/max voltmeter you can do a load test yourself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsJUuLu1cw0 ...
would be good if modern/ctek battery chargers, aapropriate for efb/agm had this built in. ...Anyone ?
Going to take the car to a local quick fit who can do a comprehensive testing of the battery completely free. Will get headlights properly adjusted while I’m there, in accordance with MOT spec.
All they will do is drop test it, if the battery isn't fully charged or nearly it will fail the drop test as the voltage will drop when they put the load on it. I'm not saying don't go there but charge the battery first or they will just be selling you a new one.
Soldato
They won't do that. They will most likely use a Bosch BAT121 or BAT131 for a full test on the battery which does state of charge, state of health plus in the case of the BAT131 will also do voltage drop during cranking, alternator tests under no load and under load and probably more I forget.
As below it’s a more comprehensive test than that
https://www.kwik-fit.com/batteries/information/free-battery-check
They’ll be able to test the alternator too, however, so if the alternator is providing sufficient charging power, but the battery still won’t charge properly on a journey, then I have more of a chance of figuring out the problem.
Just narrowing down the problems. Test is free so I have nothing to lose.
Even if the battery fails, I don’t have to buy one from them
Personally I would take it to a decent garage not a place where they are renowned for selling you things you don't need.
As for the above prices ECP are very expensive and rely on promotion codes to lure buyers in. The Battery Shop are have cheap prices compared to everyone else I have looked at and very helpful if you need help.
kwikfit, say they give you the report, is there much ambiguity in that -
might be nicer if they saw the battery capability for a cold start, but other than that ? they have/can-afford good equipment ?
have a price match too ... used it for tyres ... although installation & coding, if needed, probably a delta
might be nicer if they saw the battery capability for a cold start, but other than that ? they have/can-afford good equipment ?
have a price match too ... used it for tyres ... although installation & coding, if needed, probably a delta
Couldn't get into any local garages today, so I went and bought a multimeter for £10.
Did some testing, and have the following results:
Voltage engine off (after running headlights for a minute or two): 12.1V
Lowest V on startup: 10.92V
Voltage engine on: 14.9V
Any thoughts? Just as a reminder, I am running an aftermarket subwoofer, that switches on with the ignition.
Edit:
Battery seems quite low, considering I've done over 350 miles at the weekend.
Did some testing, and have the following results:
Voltage engine off (after running headlights for a minute or two): 12.1V
Lowest V on startup: 10.92V
Voltage engine on: 14.9V
Any thoughts? Just as a reminder, I am running an aftermarket subwoofer, that switches on with the ignition.
Edit:
Battery seems quite low, considering I've done over 350 miles at the weekend.
Last edited:
Soldato
Battery looks to be in good health and charging at a good voltage. Definitely is low on charge at 12.1v though.
That’s what I don’t understand - how is it discharging so quickly? Perhaps something draining the battery.
I may disconnect the subwoofer and see if that helps